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How to Refinish/Restore Cast Iron Parts

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#82 · (Edited)
I read through all the posts here and was surprised not to see another rust removal technique, one that I’ve been using this summer. I saw a mention of it on a non car forum, did some google searching and found tons of info along with youtube video’s. I had been looking at the electrolysis method, then found out about the EvapoRust and similar products but as others have said the cost is high.

What have I been using? Molasses and water. Not grocery store cooking type, but feed grade( Sulferised) molasses available at Tractor Supply or other farm supply type stores. Cost about $8 a gallon and I mixed my batch that I’ve been using all summer 10 to 1. Just used a small plastic bin to try this out with small parts so I have lots of that molasses gallon left for bigger stuff next summer. Works about the same as the commercially available liquid solutions, soak the parts for a few days, take out and rinse off with some scrubbing with a brush to get rid of the black coating. Parts will flash rust immediately, so it’s bare metal. It does not effect good paint, rubber or plastic just like the other stuff.

I’m amazed at how good this stuff works, easy and cheap. Plus it is none toxic and environmentally friendly. Just google “Molasses rust removal” to see more about it.
 
#83 ·
Hey Kevin that process sounds as slow as molasses! JK, LOL. Do you have any pics of your parts? It sounds like a great, cost effective process. I am very interested in seeing the results. Thanks for posting the info. Another great option for sure. This thread has some great info. Having blasted and wire wheeled so many parts in the past it is nice to know there are so many better options than the old evassive and sometimes Costly methods.
 
#84 ·
I was thinking of that when I posted that I wish I had a before and after pic. All I could take now is the afters. I was more or less just testing some vintage snowmobile parts before I ramp it up a bit more next summer, bigger container. One part was a stamped metal bracket that holds the gas tank to the chassis, it was off a sled that has been sitting out side for years so it was orange scaley rusty. After soaking for 4 days, rinsed and scrubbed, bare metal with still some of the black paint that I didn't even know was on there. There was some rust pitting in the metal but a usable part now after painting it.

This is a great thread and have learned a lot, just thought I'd add something I found that works good and it's cheap and easy. I'll try and post up some kind of pic tomorrow.
 
#85 ·
Good job Kevin. Every bit of useful knowledge sharred make us all better at restoring our cars, which is what we do and one of the manyv reason we log in! Looking forward to the pics.
 
#86 ·
Discussion starter · #87 ·
69z28freak said:
Hey Kevin that process sounds as slow as molasses! JK, LOL. Do you have any pics of your parts? It sounds like a great, cost effective process. I am very interested in seeing the results. Thanks for posting the info. Another great option for sure. This thread has some great info. Having blasted and wire wheeled so many parts in the past it is nice to know there are so many better options than the old evassive and sometimes Costly methods.
Click to expand...
...funny Mike...
 
#88 ·
That Evaporust stuff really does work well but man it is expensive. Great info! Saving some cash is always a good thing.
 
#89 ·
Well here is a picture, kind of with everything in it. The metal parts are not too impressive with out seeing them before and they flash rusted immediately after rinsing. The flash rust I can deal with before painting but not sure what to do about it if I wasn’t going to paint. The plastic bin is holding 2 dixie cups of molasses and 20 dixie cups of water, some of it has evaporated since I mixed it at the beginning of the summer. When I first started the solution would bubble and foam as it worked, now it doesn't but still does the job.

Image


This is the best I can do of a before pic. The part in front is part of the other assemble and was in the same condition.

Image
 
#90 ·
The problem with molasses is that it is an acid process. I understand that you do not want to use any kind of acid cleaning process on high strength metal, such as high grade bolts. I think that it is ok to use on cast type metals though.
 
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Discussion starter · #92 ·
Re: How to Refinish/Restore Cast Iron Parts - Epilogue

Well the original, born-with brake calipers (80th day of 1969 castings) are back on the 47,000mile RS Z/28 sporting a set of NOS brake pads (the pads I removed were bonded jobber pads with wear indicators). Thanks to Mike (69z28freak) for taking the photos, for his good humor and for his mechanical help (nobody can work a brake bleeder like this guy!)
:beers:.

Before:

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NOS Brake Pads:

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After :hurray::

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Image
 
#94 ·
Great thread! Does anyone know if I will ruin the cast finish on spindles and steering arms if I soda blast them?? I want the original cast finish, however I have to clean up the parts to achieve this. They have paint and/or some undercoating on them.
 
Discussion starter · #95 ·
DT said:
Great thread! Does anyone know if I will ruin the cast finish on spindles and steering arms if I soda blast them?? I want the original cast finish, however I have to clean up the parts to achieve this. They have paint and/or some undercoating on them.
Click to expand...
Donny, just finished a "survivor cleanup" of my spindles, rotors/hubs and steering arms (previously did the calipers shown in this thread). They turned out very nice (photos don't do them justice). First I cleaned each part in the solvent tank then treated to eletrolysis to remove the rust back to the orignal cast followed by a light scrubbing with 0000 steel wool then an application of Boeshield T-9. Not keen on blasting cast parts with anything.

Here's a few pix (Post #165):

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=81626&page=11
 
#96 ·
Edgemontvillage said:
Donny, just finished a "survivor cleanup" of my spindles, rotors/hubs and steering arms (previously did the calipers shown in this thread). They turned out very nice (photos don't do them justice). First I cleaned each part in the solvent tank then treated to eletrolysis to remove the rust back to the orignal cast followed by a light scrubbing with 0000 steel wool then an application of Boeshield T-9. Not keen on blasting cast parts with anything.

Here's a few pix (Post #165):

http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=81626&page=11
Click to expand...
I agree with Lloyd. Any type of blasting is quite aggresive. I only suggest blasting parts that are badly rusted that you plan on restoring and not concerned with originality. As Lloyd pointed out electrolysis, is one of the best ways of removing rust from metal parts and 100% non evasive. I wish I was up to speed on this process previously when I was blasting parts. Blasting removes metal from the surface and changes the finish forever. BLasting is good for large iron parts like subframes and diffs. It works better on heavy duty parts and does not destroy the finish as much. In my opinion it should not be used on sheet metal at all. I am sure that you will find many opinions on the subject, even some who prefer diping, which also can be evasive. For my money use ectrolysis when ever possible and keep your parts as original as possible.
 
#98 ·
69z28freak said:
BLasting is good for large iron parts like subframes and diffs. It works better on heavy duty parts and does not destroy the finish as much. In my opinion it should not be used on sheet metal at all. I am sure that you will find many opinions on the subject, even some who prefer diping, which also can be evasive.
Click to expand...
"Blasting" is an all encompassing term and dissuading it's use is a blanket statement. There are blasting medias such as glass or walnut shells, that will not harm the surface of sheetmetal. Sand is not one of them. Heat is not the cause of warpage as so many think. Sand can be used on structural parts body parts and sheetmetal near a high crown, but not entire quarters, fenders, etc. Many people have destroyed panels with sand, even guys who claim they know what they are doing. Although sometimes tickling a panel with sand is possible, it's very wasteful. Media size affects finish results tremedously. Big difference between blasting with your pressure pot using OO sand and a fine media in the blasting cabinet. The word evasive does not apply here but aggressive does.
 
#99 ·
TTT as I find this info very informative....................

Looking forward to seeing Rick Nelson and whatever he displays
at the Muscle Car Nationals in November
 
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#100 ·
This is a great thread & very informative. I am amazed at the extent many of you go to duplicate the factory finish on cast iron parts. I was an employee of the Tonawanda MCP when these parts were cast and it is a little humorous to read about all of this fuss "duplicating" what we produced. You probably know that the original castings were all cleaned by blasting with steel shot. At a production rate of 2,500 tons per day, we didn't have much time to mess with them!
Kudos to you all for your excellent restoration work!!! The guys who worked at the plant back in the day would be proud (and amazed).
 
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