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69 X66 Floor Pan

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HawkX66

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
My welder is set to go with a new argon tank and I picked up a new air compressor. All plumbed in with 1/2" copper. Now it's time to dig in.
I've done searches and come up with some great info in addition to info from members in my posts in the past.
If anyone wouldn't mind, would you post some links to your favorite full floor pan replacement threads? I'm also going to go for a full lower firewall replacement instead of just replacing the kick panels.
I already started by drilling out the spot welds on the seat pans for practice. What a bear. I think I was doing something wrong. I picked up a Blair double ended spot weld cutter (13224), but I went through the tips alot quicker than I thought I should have. Other better tools out there that aren't $100s of dollars?
Any help would be appreciated!
 
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Discussion starter · #3 ·
Glad to hear it wasn't just me... thanks for the heads up. Bummer, I have to buy a new tool now ;-) Thanks.
 
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#4 ·
I gave up on the seat pans, I could not find all the spot welds. I just decided to buy new ones. The floor pan spot welds were much easier. Also, I used a 1/8 or 3/16 in another drill to get started because I have the Blair set-up with the retractable drill bit (maybe they are all retractable - I do not know).
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
I like the idea of a spot weld cutter, so I'm just going to get a better quality tool. I thought I was buying the right thing... New seat pans are the way I'm going, drilling them out was just practice. Glad to hear the floor cuts out easier. I'm going to sawzall most of it, get inside the hole and start drilling. Somebody promised me a rotisserie this month or next. I'm hoping he comes through. It would make things much easier. I suppose I won't even need to sawzall once it's on a rotisserie would I?
 
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#7 ·
A little tip on drilling out spotwelds.

Go around with a punch and mark all the hole centers. Then go back and drill out a small pilot hole if possible, that way, when you break out the spotweld cutters, they will not walk on you and it will make removing them much easier.
 
#8 ·
When is did the full floor on my 69 vert I drilled out all of the front and rear floor spot welds then cut the floor along the rockers right where the floor turns down. This left just a small 3-4 inch strip of metal that had the spot welds. Then I took and air chisel an went along the rocker popping all of the spot welds. It was so quick and easy. All that was left on the rockers were the spot welds that I later ground down. I know that verts have thicker rockers and this may not be possible on a coupe without damaging the rocker. Give it a shot.

Just a thought.

Good Luck!

Ted
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Pilot holes will be ideal if I can get to the welds. I should be able to so I'll give it a shot. I tried popping a couple with my air chisel and it dented the inner rocker more than I liked. Maybe after cutting it and leaving the strip it might let them pop easier. I'll check it out... Good suggestions, thanks.
 
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#10 ·
Bulk drop all panels first, then drill the spot welds with a quality tool and remove the remnants. Do not use an air chisel like an animal. Use a Steck seam buster to separate the panels, they offer different types. Locate spotwelds by using a scotchbrite roloc or clean strip disc. Be gentle when using an air chisel and keep a sharp edge. Spotweld removal tools range from 30 bucks to hundreds.
 
#11 ·
Bowti69 said:
A little tip on drilling out spotwelds.

Go around with a punch and mark all the hole centers. Then go back and drill out a small pilot hole if possible, that way, when you break out the spotweld cutters, they will not walk on you and it will make removing them much easier.
Click to expand...
I'm a beginner but I do the same thing. I did not buy expensive spot weld cutters. One of the reasons I didn't is because I wanted to learn how to use the tool first. I did break a few teeth when I started because I did not hold the drill straight. I used some sideways pressure and broke the teeth. Anyway, I find that the life of the cutters can be extended by using cutting oil and using a slow speed. I think the problem with what I do is you have to make sure you clean up all the oil so you don't have paint adhesion problems. Just my two cents. I've cut a lot of spot welds on my car and I think I'm on my third cutter (two sides per cutter.) Good luck and have fun.
 
#12 ·
tjgimp said:
I'm a beginner but I do the same thing. I did not buy expensive spot weld cutters. One of the reasons I didn't is because I wanted to learn how to use the tool first.
Click to expand...
Learning with a POS tool is self defeating. A good Blair spot weld cutter is only $30 with 3 cutter heads.
 
#13 ·
The only spot weld cutter I use is the solid type

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The hollow type break to easy unless your surface is perfectly flat. You catch one tooth awkwardly and it's junk.They are about $30 a pop and any shop I worked at I had to buy my own. But the shop would supply cut off wheels. I always use a 1/4" thick cut off wheel and grind the spot welds out until the top layer of metal is paper thin then go back with something like a Steck seam buster and pop the panel off. Average time with the cut off wheel is about 5 seconds per weld. When you have hundreds of welds to remove and your working flat rate you find out quick that dickin' around with a spotweld cutter is a waste of time. I save the spot weld cutter (solid) for certain areas like interior or by gas tanks where I can't throw sparks or if I have to reuse the panel I'm removing,but do the bulk of the work with a cut off wheel. Faster,cheaper,cleaner. Just my opinion.
 
#14 ·
Believe it or not, the $5 harbor freight double ended spot weld cutter works great! I thought I would need to buy a few, but I have used the ONE I bought about 25 times and have not had to turn it. Others have done hundreds of welds without turning it. A simple spring loaded center punch and a little cutting oil and there ya go. :)
 
#15 ·
I disagree about the air chisel being for animals.

" Do not use an air chisel like an animal."

Any tool used PROPERLY and with care can save time and money. A monkey with with anything can cause damage!

Good luck!

Ted
 
#16 ·
TB69 said:
I disagree about the air chisel being for animals.

" Do not use an air chisel like an animal."

Any tool used PROPERLY and with care can save time and money. A monkey with with anything can cause damage!

Good luck!

Ted
Click to expand...
You quoted me and then wrote I stated something else. I did not say it's for animals. If a person uses an air chisel aggressively like an animal on an improperly prepped spot weld they will tear the metal. And worse yet if the tool is dull. Common sense dictates proper tool use but I've seen plenty of butchers in this business. I've been using an air chisel for decades without destroying anything. So have others in collision and restoration.
 
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