Does anyone have some hints for restoring aluminum valve covers? I would like the final product to look new if possible, which I assume would require some polishing.
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69 Z 28 Valve Cover Restoration
69z28freak
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Does anyone have some hints for restoring aluminum valve covers? I would like the final product to look new if possible, which I assume would require some polishing.
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Jerry Macneish @ z28camaro.com. He does great work.
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I had mine blasted with walnut shells and it gave the new dull look. Do not use a heavy media or sand. A professional should be able to use a non abrasive media. If you want them shiney, use a aluminum wheel polish or a product call Maas metal polish. Get a rag and go to it. If you want a high gloss you can polish them on a cloth wheel.
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Jerry's currently restoring the valve covers for my Z (also rebuilding the entire engine). Apparently one of the bolt holes required a repair - he can handle that as well.
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Thanks Metal Man. You motor looks great. I know that the intake and alternator casing for example should go through a process referred to as re-skinning. I a was planning to get my intake done. For some reason I though you could get new after market valve covers and that they had a shinier polished look. I don't want a dull look on mine. I want them to look like they would have when new. Does anyone have any pics of how they would have looked.X2
He did a great job on mine, I believe he uses a media tumbling process.
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Was your intake and valve covers re-skinned?
I would like to start by cleaning them up first and see what they look like. I was thinking of putting them in the parts washer. Anything special I need to know about cleaning aluminum?
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Hey William I wil post a picture of the under side. I think they are 1970 Valve covers, that have had the droppers removed.
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Thanks Bruce. Just curious what the finished product would look like.
Mike,
I ended up using some 70’s LT1 valve covers they had already had the baffle’s modified and drippers machined off.
I did this because the originals didn’t clear the Crower Stainless Steel roller rockers and didn’t want to cut on my originals.
The covers you have look to be the same ones I currently have on my 302 they are lightly polished.
BTW going to be ending a Alaskan Cruise in Vancouver and will be spending a couple extra days in your town 8-6 thru 8-8.
What can I expect for weather?
---Dean
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I ended up using some 70’s LT1 valve covers they had already had the baffle’s modified and drippers machined off.
I did this because the originals didn’t clear the Crower Stainless Steel roller rockers and didn’t want to cut on my originals.
The covers you have look to be the same ones I currently have on my 302 they are lightly polished.
BTW going to be ending a Alaskan Cruise in Vancouver and will be spending a couple extra days in your town 8-6 thru 8-8.
What can I expect for weather?
---Dean
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Hey Dean your car looks great. I had a '71 Z28 that was the same colour. Weather here should be hot and sunny. Temp should be around 85 first week of August. I am not sure if I will be in town, then but stay in touch. If I am around I can show you some local Camaro get togethers.
My Valve covers came off a friends '69 Z 28 who also had roller rockers and a previous owner used the '70 valve covers for the same reason as you. My friend has since put on the correct valve covers and sold me his.
My Valve covers came off a friends '69 Z 28 who also had roller rockers and a previous owner used the '70 valve covers for the same reason as you. My friend has since put on the correct valve covers and sold me his.
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I took a few more pictures of the valve covers.
Drippers have been ground down.
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It looks like someone as ground down the outer lip of the valve covers. Will this cause any kind of a problem I should be aware of? Why would someone do this? Must have been some kind of advantage. Why else would it be done?
![Image]()
Drippers have been ground down.
It looks like someone as ground down the outer lip of the valve covers. Will this cause any kind of a problem I should be aware of? Why would someone do this? Must have been some kind of advantage. Why else would it be done?
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Put down the silver can of spray paint. Re-skin it as a DIY project.
Degrease & clean with your favorite magic cleaner i.e. simple green, castrol, amway whatever.
Rinse.
Acid etch clean & brighten with Eagle One Mag cleaner <$8.00> product #?? http://eagleone.com/mag-wheel-cleaner
Note: (Heavy hand scrubbing WILL be required use scotch bright greenie or small wire brushes etc...) Multiple applications, as needed depending on how much grime or more likely alum (rust, I know non iron based metal) oxidation, pitting, mung, powder etc exists.
Rinse.
Washdown with clean lacquer thinner. Best done with a paint gun to drive out any remaining contaminates in the pores. Wipe down with clean cotton white cloth to remove any traped oils work quickly, the thinner evaps very fast.
Buff - Burnish the surface with a BRASS brush. (This is not polishing) optional, test a spot and see what the results are, i.e. do a back side or sample part till you achive results that are to your liking.
Seal-Skin with a 1:1 mix of PPG DX501 & cold water <$25.00> re.chromic acid based chemical that will produce a chrome conversion coating on aluminum DX501 is a clear version of DX503. The coating formed by DX501 is clear in color. It is used when it
is desirable to retain the silver white aluminum finish . Apply to the aluminum after the cleaning. Similar to anodizing is that it stabilizes the aluminum from the air and moisture. Stains also will clean up. Keep the manifold and valve covers looking cast appearance.
THe BEST method is to send to Jerry, but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,and I have had many items skined & rebuilt and have had great service, you know you can not send every thing,,,,I would like to.
My sample picture was to big to post, I just did a Weiand Maifold that turned out very nice.
Jim W
Degrease & clean with your favorite magic cleaner i.e. simple green, castrol, amway whatever.
Rinse.
Acid etch clean & brighten with Eagle One Mag cleaner <$8.00> product #?? http://eagleone.com/mag-wheel-cleaner
Note: (Heavy hand scrubbing WILL be required use scotch bright greenie or small wire brushes etc...) Multiple applications, as needed depending on how much grime or more likely alum (rust, I know non iron based metal) oxidation, pitting, mung, powder etc exists.
Rinse.
Washdown with clean lacquer thinner. Best done with a paint gun to drive out any remaining contaminates in the pores. Wipe down with clean cotton white cloth to remove any traped oils work quickly, the thinner evaps very fast.
Buff - Burnish the surface with a BRASS brush. (This is not polishing) optional, test a spot and see what the results are, i.e. do a back side or sample part till you achive results that are to your liking.
Seal-Skin with a 1:1 mix of PPG DX501 & cold water <$25.00> re.chromic acid based chemical that will produce a chrome conversion coating on aluminum DX501 is a clear version of DX503. The coating formed by DX501 is clear in color. It is used when it
is desirable to retain the silver white aluminum finish . Apply to the aluminum after the cleaning. Similar to anodizing is that it stabilizes the aluminum from the air and moisture. Stains also will clean up. Keep the manifold and valve covers looking cast appearance.
THe BEST method is to send to Jerry, but,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,and I have had many items skined & rebuilt and have had great service, you know you can not send every thing,,,,I would like to.
My sample picture was to big to post, I just did a Weiand Maifold that turned out very nice.
Jim W
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RAMAIRDAVE a member here on the site did mine. I would be willing to bet the cost was much cheaper than anyplace else and i think they look great.
Before:
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After:
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Hey Jim would love to see the finished product. Your plan sounds like it would work well.
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Dave posted how he does his on CRG and here. No reason you can't do it yourself like he does. A man gives me some steel and aluminium parts to paint and he blasts them in his cabinet with fine media. The aluminum surfaces come out very similar to Dave's technique. Avoid aggressive media and high presssure. Or pay J.M. for his reskinning service.
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=2916.0
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=120865
http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=2916.0
http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=120865
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I would prefer to do the work at home or have the valve covers re-skinned if possible. Shipping from Canada is expensive. I will check out the CRG link. Thanks for the info.
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Mike, I think you already have the answers to all these questions...I took a few more pictures of the valve covers.
Drippers have been ground down.
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
![Image]()
It looks like someone as ground down the outer lip of the valve covers. Will this cause any kind of a problem I should be aware of? Why would someone do this? Must have been some kind of advantage. Why else would it be done?
![Image]()
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