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Gaps at corner of windshield molding

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Dr.Ron

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello. another newbie question. I tried a search, but I know unless you type it right you never get what you are looking for, so i figured I'd just ask in a thread.
I have a gap at the top corner on both the right and left sides of the windshield between the "chrome" molding strip and the roof. Similar issue but much less on the rear window. The rear likely can stay as is, but the front has me concerned.
I washed the car (which I own for 2 weeks) and no leaks on either glass.
Can/should this be filled in, and if so, with what. Black caulk or silicone or something (the car is black)?

While we are at it, I noticed the center 1/3 of the bottom front windshield molding goes pretty much straight across the windshield, leaving a small gap between the molding and the "grill" section between the windshield and the hood.
Is this normal, and can anything be done?

Thanks so much for helping a newbie!

Ron
 
#3 ·
The glass sealer, hopefully urethane, prevents leaks. The corner gaps you have don't. That's just bad bodywork like your door problem without pictures in the other thread in which you posted. Black caulk will do nothing except look like a butcher worked on the car. The cowl panel or "grill" as you call it is supposed to slide into the lower windshield molding clips to keep it tight against the molding. Buy a windshield wiper removal tool to begin resolving that issue.
 
#4 ·
It also might be you have repop molding around your windshield and it don't fit right. Check that before you put a bunch of glob on it. Like Scott said caulking will look awful and worse than if you just leave it alone.
 
#5 ·
That glob will also retain water and cause rust. These cars were not perfect from the factory, what your seeng may not be big problem. Pictures would help though.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Image

The gray looking vertical line, to the right of the cowl panel and just before the chrome molding which is at the bottom of the windshield is the gap I was speaking about. If you look both above it and below it there is no way it can be moved closer to the windshield due to its concave shape there.
 
#11 ·
There are pins in the channel that the clips slide onto. The moldings attach to the clips. If there are no clips holding the moldings on, that is probably why the moldings are not tight against the channel. Pull them off and get some clips and then snap them back on. It looks like the top molding will twist into place once it is clipped, the other molding should slide up into place.

If I misunderstood you, and they are attached with clips you need a trim tool to remove the moldings with out damaging them. Most auto parts stores should sell them for not too much.
 
#12 ·
If the clips are played out they won't hold tightly. Don't buy clips from vendors. Go to your jobber and buy good Auveco clips. I have boxes of different styles and a box of 50 is less than the vendors. You need to evaluate the cowl panel situation. No reason it and the molding cannot be adjusted. Buy a windshield wiper removal tool.
 
#13 ·
those appear to be aftermarket moldings, I can't be sure but they don't look like OEM GM to me. Anyone else agree with this?

If they are repops they are junk and will fit like crap. You will be better off with originals and trying to solve the problem but first get clarification on the moldings if they are repops or not.
 
#14 ·
Not sure Joe, was thinking repop, but can't tell for sure. The top molding looks kinda tweeked, but maybe just the reflection. Original GM don't fit perfect in this area either. Agree with Scott, need to remove the moldings and start over. Get some new clips.

Regarding the cowl panel/ lower molding gap, the clips there hold both together and are adjustable. The cowl panel actually should slide underneath the molding. You'll have to remove the cowl panel to tell, but hopefully there's still room for adjustment to move the clips and lower moldings down and to the front. That's assuming the hood/ cowl gap is good and cowl panel doesn't want to be moved back towards the windshield.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Daytona Yellow 69 Z/28 said:
There are pins in the channel that the clips slide onto. The moldings attach to the clips. If there are no clips holding the moldings on, that is probably why the moldings are not tight against the channel. Pull them off and get some clips and then snap them back on. It looks like the top molding will twist into place once it is clipped, the other molding should slide up into place.

If I misunderstood you, and they are attached with clips you need a trim tool to remove the moldings with out damaging them. Most auto parts stores should sell them for not too much.
Click to expand...
The previous owner said they are GM stainless and have clips.
Sauron67MM said:
If the clips are played out they won't hold tightly. Don't buy clips from vendors. Go to your jobber and buy good Auveco clips. I have boxes of different styles and a box of 50 is less than the vendors. You need to evaluate the cowl panel situation. No reason it and the molding cannot be adjusted. Buy a windshield wiper removal tool.
Click to expand...

The moldings seem to be on there tight.
Joe Harrison said:
those appear to be aftermarket moldings, I can't be sure but they don't look like OEM GM to me. Anyone else agree with this?

If they are repops they are junk and will fit like crap. You will be better off with originals and trying to solve the problem but first get clarification on the moldings if they are repops or not.
Click to expand...
I was told they are GM stainless.
Garfields Maro said:
Not sure Joe, was thinking repop, but can't tell for sure. The top molding looks kinda tweeked, but maybe just the reflection. Original GM don't fit perfect in this area either. Agree with Scott, need to remove the moldings and start over. Get some new clips.

Regarding the cowl panel/ lower molding gap, the clips there hold both together and are adjustable. The cowl panel actually should slide underneath the molding. You'll have to remove the cowl panel to tell, but hopefully there's still room for adjustment to move the clips and lower moldings down and to the front. That's assuming the hood/ cowl gap is good and cowl panel doesn't want to be moved back towards the windshield.
Click to expand...
The cowl panel-hood gap is fine. It looks like the molding is too straight across the windshield and if it was more of an arc the problem would be solved there. How mould able are these molding pieces?
 
#16 ·
You are not going to solve the problems until you disassemble and fully evaluate the situation. I just had GM moldings off and on (R&R) two cars multiple times and they fit fine. The lead work on your A-pillar is not that great and makes the gaps worse. But they should fit better than they do. I see what appears to be a stud behind the upper molding and not sure what that shiny spot is to the right of it. Easy to tell if I popped everything apart.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Update: I got the cowl panel to move up and under the lower windshield molding. 1 problem solved...Thanks!
And yes sauron67mm, there is something behind the molding...maybe the clips? I will get the tool asap, but I am nervous about doing this. Is it pretty simple?

Ron
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Garfields Maro said:
You're welcome Ron. I presume moving the cowl panel changed your hood gap ?

Regarding the windshield molding, I'd suggest trying a search over at the BodyShop. :thumbsup: Here's one thread of many....http://www.camaros.net/forums/showthread.php?t=103551&highlight=window+trim+removal
Click to expand...
It did. Now its like 3/8- 7/16". Is that considered too much?? Between the hood and the nose is 2-3/16". Is it worth trying to move the hood a few 1/16"? The hood/nose gap is nice!
 
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