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Major step forward... modern drivetrain time!

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HwyStarJoe

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I can't believe I'm saying this but I finally grew a pair and committed to a major investment in my Camaro. No, it's still in primer. No plans for bodywork any time soon.

I cannot stand the thought of another summer with a small block under a carb without an overdrive tranny. I placed an order for a low mileage LS2 from a GTO and late model automatic.
What have I gotten myself into? :)

I should have it next weekend. I don't think I'll sleep till then. It's more than I wanted to spend for sure, but I've spent a lot of time over the past month doing endless research and I didn't want the hassle of having to disassemble and rebuild something just to fit, so the LS2 was the most logical choice. For 7 grand I could have gotten a new LS3 with 513 miles on it, and believe me I considered it, but I had to restrain myself. It would be cool as hell to have a Camaro engine in a Camaro though. I have to settle for 6 liters I guess.

Hey Bob... thanks for the push.
:beers:
 
#3 ·
The thought has crossed my mind on more than one occasion to do the same. Having the matching numbers motor/tranny/rear in my car with no place to store it makes it a much harder decision though. If my original motor was missing I've got no doubt I'd have an LSx in it by now.
 
#5 ·
Hey Joe, I am right there with you (well almost)! I have a 28k mile LS1 "in the mail" along with a freshly rebuilt T56 Manual Six Speed coming my direction. Let's see; I paid $1600 for the LS1 plus $450 shipping, another $1400 for the T56 plus $300 shipping and maybe another $4k for all of the misc parts (computer, front of motor, clutch, raidator, etc) which also includes $ for help from a friend, all comes to $8k, less the $1k I am getting for the 383 Stroker currently in my 69 (needs a head job) less maybe $2k upon selling the COMPLETE M20 4 Speed for a likely net cost of $5k if I am extremely lucky. All of this along with the 4 wheel power disc brakes already on the car and I'm going to be set to cruise anywhere with 400HP at 25MPG on regular gas!
 
#6 ·
Advice for both of you for motor mount adapters- Hooker's "stock location" mounts put the engine too far back- the bellhousng mounting face kisses the firewall. Go with the 1.25" forward mounts- there's still plenty of center link clearance on the Holley oil pan. I paid $80 for that knowledge.....lol
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Thanks Bob. I'm going to use the Dirty Dingo plates. I can always have my own fabbed up if need be, but they wouldn't be as 'pretty'. :)
Good luck Charlie! Just got a call that my package will be here in a week. All the way from TX where they don't rust. They had to hunt for one with an automatic, and I have to give them time to pull everything out of the car. These guys (Ron) are the best! And they're local so I can pick it up myself.
http://stores.ebay.com/rgwsalvages

I'm tempted to grab the seats from the GTO as well, but it's not in the budget. I won't even talk money.... it's brutal.
I'm not cheaping out, but I'm not going as far as a Rock Valley or Ricks tank prices for parts either. I gotta put a cap on the total cost somewhere.

I'm trying to figure out how to cure the starter on a GTO LS2 fitment problem. Thanks to Mr. Kovacs I learned it may\will interfere with headers. But I don't know exactly what the interference is yet. Bob, you said you're using Thorley shorty headers... I wonder if that'll cure the starter fitment issue when the exhaust shop bends the pipes that'll snake down to my exhaust system? I was gonna use Dougs full-length headers, but I'm still doing research. I can't see how the solenoid would interfere....
 
#8 ·
Joe, I went the 1" set-back carshop plates which kept the tranny (350th) in the stock location....yes it's very close to the firewall and the tranny dipstick took a bit of a hit (going Locar when I can) :(

I went with the "stock replacement" starter and Dynatech 1 7/8" headers...needed to fish the starter in, but no worse than the stock starter and 1 3/4" Hookers IMO.

Now with you going new drivetrain the DD sliders should work great (I think a 1/2"-3/4" set-back will work best) ???

Lots of pics :D
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Yes, I plan to document it as best I can.
I can be very verbose at times and like to express every detail. That's something that's always lacking in the thousands of magazine articles and countless threads on countless sites... all the details that really mean something. They explain what they bought and where they bought it, but it ends there. Kinda worthless to me.
 
#10 ·
I not sure what I'm doing for headers yet. The BRP mid-lengths are looking good, and their shop is only 30 minutes from my house, so I can go check out the fit on one of their cars. I had been thinking about the Sanderson shorties that Windsma used, as they had good clearance, but he went with 1 1/2" tubes, while the 1 3/4" version I want sticks out an inch further from the head, which doesn't look like it'll fit with the power steering box.

Got my Z06 cam and springs installed tonight. The springs were a piece of cake to do with the TrickFlow compressor- only took an hour to do the whole set. I'm buttoning up the rest of the engine tomorrow, and hope to get the trans back on it Friday night so I can drop it in this weekend. It's gonna sit for a few weeks while I wait for the next round of funds to come in for the fuel system, cooling, harness, etc. Maybe I'll do some of the miscellaneous bodywork that I've got to get done while I'm waiting.
 
#12 ·
HwyStarJoe said:
:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
Look at Dynatech swap headers. They clear the box and starter.

For fuel look at Tanks Inc. I just put mine in my LS7 build. In tank pump and 90 ohm sender. You can use a C5 Vette Filter/regulator that has the return line to the tank and a single line to the fuel rails. The part is $35 or Speedway has the kit with all the fittings for around $65.

I looked at Ricks and Vaprworx and could not justify the extra $1000 over Tanks Inc.

For cooling don't forget the LS steam lines. You can run it to the radiator or tap the suction side of the WP
 
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#13 ·
Vega$69 said:
For fuel look at Tanks Inc. I just put mine in my LS7 build. In tank pump and 90 ohm sender. You can use a C5 Vette Filter/regulator that has the return line to the tank and a single line to the fuel rails. The part is $35 or Speedway has the kit with all the fittings for around $65.
Click to expand...
Interesting that Speedway has them so cheap. I usually use RockAuto for all the "standard" pieces and parts, and they've always been the cheapest around. They've got the filter/regulator at $108. Great find, John.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Yeah... thanks John.
And Tanks Inc. is where I'm getting the setup from. Call me cheap... :)

As far as clearing the starter, I take it the issue is because the LS2 starter ONLY in the GTO has the solenoid clocked at 6 o'clock? I wish you could remember where you saw that Bob. I can't see any other way to clock it other than to use a remote solenoid. It's super tight in there.

I'll keep digging.

Lemme ask you guys... should I be asking for the front driveshaft yoke off of the GTO transmission as well so I can have it put on my driveshaft? Maybe I'll just talk him into throwing in the entire shaft while I'm there.
 
#15 ·
Unless there's something unique about the GTO bellhousing, I honestly don't understand why a standard started wouldn't fit- the block shouldn't be different. They may have gone with the lower solenoid due to install issues under that car??

If you can get the yoke or driveshaft, that'd be a plus- one less thing you've got to find/buy later.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
BobKovacs said:
Unless there's something unique about the GTO bellhousing, I honestly don't understand why a standard started wouldn't fit- the block shouldn't be different. They may have gone with the lower solenoid due to install issues under that car??

If you can get the yoke or driveshaft, that'd be a plus- one less thing you've got to find/buy later.
Click to expand...

Bob,I've seen pictures of that area of an LS2 and the starter is TIGHT. If I can find the pictures again, you'll see what I mean. There's something just above the starter that prevents the solenoid from being clocked any other way.
 
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HwyStarJoe
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