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Auto Meter Gauges not fitting...

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auto meter cobalt gauge
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67Carl

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm installing Auto Meter Cobalt gauges. 3 in the console (water, oil, fuel) are already installed. Started on the Spedometer and Tach in the dash housing today and ran into a snag.

I've posted a few pics below but basically the chrome trim ring prevents the gauge from fully seating in the housing, which in turn keeps the mounting bracket on the back to far away - it won't go over the mounting bolts. I don't mind that it isn't fully seated - the only way you'll see that is if you're on the floor looking up.

I can't do anything about the chrome trim ring, I can't cut the plastic housing (trim ring starts rubbing about 1/2" from the back opening) and I don't see a way to "shorten" the plastic mounting bracket. Is there a tool that stretches the bolts that come out of the gauges? :eek:

Any suggestions? Is there a piece of hardware I can thread onto the gauge bolt that has threads on the other end? In other words a female end on one side and a male on the other? A thread extender (just made that up)? Aaaaarrrrrggghhhh!
 

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#3 ·
...I put Autometer Sportcomp gauges in my last car a long time ago... I didnt like how the looked being put in from the front. My solution was to install them from the back.
As I remember (and this is gonna sound kinda *******-ish).. The outer face of the gauges were the same size as the back of the gauge pod. I super-glued the gauges (yes, I said that) to the pod. Then I took the piece of metal that holds the factory gauges to the pod, installed it backwards, (green side facing out) ..
I worked perfectly.. look like a factory install... I got tons of compliments on it, and have never saw it done like that since...
Dont know if the cobalt gauges will work that way, but you might play around with installing from the back.
 
#4 ·
I've done a couple but mounted the gauges from the back. I prefer to have them deeper into the housing since AM gauges have a lot of glare. It takes some fooling around to mount them that way though. Done this way the tach hit the steering column support so that had to be reworked.
 

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Discussion starter · #6 ·
john68 said:
My bolt strecher is in my truck, next to my 2x4 strecher,, Kidding aside can you shorten the the cross mounting bracket legs,
Click to expand...
Not sure how as they are plastic. If I cut a section out how would I rejoin the two pieces (and be strong enough to hold the gauge)? Maybe make a splint or sister - think sistering a joist - them by gluing/screwing it together? May call Auto Meter to see if the bracket is an orderable part before I start cutting.

kv67ssrs said:
...I put Autometer Sportcomp gauges in my last car a long time ago... I didnt like how the looked being put in from the front. My solution was to install them from the back.
As I remember (and this is gonna sound kinda *******-ish).. The outer face of the gauges were the same size as the back of the gauge pod. I super-glued the gauges (yes, I said that) to the pod. Then I took the piece of metal that holds the factory gauges to the pod, installed it backwards, (green side facing out) ..
I worked perfectly.. look like a factory install... I got tons of compliments on it, and have never saw it done like that since...
Dont know if the cobalt gauges will work that way, but you might play around with installing from the back.
Click to expand...
Where is the smiley with a mullet when you need one!? The issue I see with that is the chrome bezel tapers and the contact surface is minimal where it would meet the housing. I'll take a look at that to see if it's feasible.

Thanks guys and keep the suggestions coming!
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
friendlyviper said:
I've done a couple but mounted the gauges from the back. I prefer to have them deeper into the housing since AM gauges have a lot of glare. It takes some fooling around to mount them that way though. Done this way the tach hit the steering column support so that had to be reworked.
Click to expand...
That looks nice. The bezel on mine is very large and it will not go in through the back. Well, I should say it goes in just a little bit but it's like a ball in socket - it rotates and I can't see a way to securely hold it in place with the brackets supplied, unless I glue it like kv67rsss suggests, and I'm not quite there yet.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
friendlyviper said:
Back to the OP's question. You might be able to cut the studs down and then use coupling nuts. Looks like 8-32 is the smallest stocked at MC. Not too hard to make them from scratch though.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-coupling-nuts/=ljw3uq
Click to expand...
Outstanding. I think that would work! I'll check the local hardware store then go net if needed. When I installed the console gauges I had to cut the outer bolts to clear the gauge housing (pic below). Thanks!
 

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#10 ·
friendlyviper said:
Back to the OP's question. You might be able to cut the studs down and then use coupling nuts. Looks like 8-32 is the smallest stocked at MC. Not too hard to make them from scratch though.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#hex-coupling-nuts/=ljw3uq
Click to expand...
It looks to me from looking at your first pic. like you could cut or grind down the round base of the mounting brackets enough so that you could get the nuts started on the shafts.
 
#11 ·
67Carl said:
Well, I should say it goes in just a little bit but it's like a ball in socket - it rotates and I can't see a way to securely hold it in place with the brackets supplied, unless I glue it like kv67rsss suggests, and I'm not quite there yet.
Click to expand...
That's the fun part. I used hot glue while making the mechanical mounts but just glue sounds even better.
 

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Discussion starter · #13 ·
L30 327 said:
It looks to me from looking at your first pic. like you could cut or grind down the round base of the mounting brackets enough so that you could get the nuts started on the shafts.
Click to expand...
I did think of trying that but wasn't sure how to evenly take that material off without cracking the plastic. I don't have a grinding wheel or band saw... Somehow locking my reciprocating saw in a vice and rotating the housing around the blade seems like a bad idea. Maybe after I've had a few beers... Just kidding. If anyone could suggest a good way to evenly remove about 1/4 inch I'd appreciate it.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
kv67ssrs said:
dont knock... the super glue.... it stayed stuck for years... til the car was sold...
sucks to get it in the mullet tho..... ;-)
Click to expand...
I mock you but I had a mullet in high school! Decided to grow one in my senior year as I was going in the Army after graduation and thought, what the hell!
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Thanks "BOSS&Ralph" for the coupling nut idea and thanks to everyone else for their suggestions. I went to the hardware store and they stocked the nut. Got it worked out and I'm good to go. Once I tightened everything down the gauges are pretty secure and hard to move. I may put a bead of silicon around the back edge as insurance to hold them as there is a lot of vibration in these old cars. Figure silicon is less permanent than super glue. Also got the LED turn signal lights installed, pulled the ignition cylinder out and started on the senders.

I'll be heading over to the engine forum now for my next problem I need help on. Free beer for anyone who comes to Sacramento! :beers:
 

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friendlyviper
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