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63fiberbuggy

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Working thru mechanical systems restoration & having issues getting a pedal (multiple bleeds & pedal just sinks), so I’m guessing the master cylinder is leaking internally past seals. No leaks outside the system.

Previous owner (deceased) installed 4-wheel disc conversion and what appears to be the 8” double-diaphragm booster w/chrome master (photos in car below) kit from Classic (J85315672 - 4 Wheel Disc Chrome 8)

I contacted Classic and they don’t sell just the master cylinder for this kit, nor do they sell parts to rebuild it; therefore looking to TC for guidance on path forward.

Will any OEM style master work with this booster? Recommendations?
Do I need to keep the proportioning valve (probably left from drum days)?
Can anyone identify brand/model of the disc conversion from photos (and is it a quality product)?

At this stage of total restoration, I’d prefer to repair “as found” brake system; however, if it’s total crap, then will consider options.

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Discussion starter · #3 ·
Should I disconnect e-brake cable, bleed, then reconnect? I’m not sure the proper procedure to adjust e-brake. My only prior experience working on brake systems is my ‘63 VW dune buggy; and it’s a single cylinder master w/hand e-brake. So I’m a little bit in over my head.

Thanks for ID’ing the disc kit; now I know where to get parts/pads
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
UPDATE:

Followed e-brake adjustment guidelines & still didn’t get a firm pedal; so I ordered the 11" Brake Booster Kit, Master Cylinder and Proportioning Valve Kit (DISC/DISC) from Camaro Central

Installed it Friday & bled system (bench bled master first), result is firm pedal now, so I suppose the old master was bad. Didn’t want to take a chance with existing booster/proportioning valve either.

Interestingly, when I got under dash I found an extra brake pedal return spring “cobbled” together & had actually rubbed a groove alongside the brake switch housing. Pulled all that crap out and left OEM spring in place simply because it’s a pain to remove. Pedal seems to return fine.

Props to “old post” here on TC, I referred to several to accomplish installation of above…thanks to those contributors!
 
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