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63fiberbuggy

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Posting upfront before the next adventure of this restoration begins….”engine”. I’ll update after we get into it & find out what’s bothering her. So far, I’ve driven twice less than 3 miles each & it’s not running well…backfires/sputters along.

I bought the ‘68 convertible with very little info on the engine; PO stated “383 stroker motor, aluminum heads, 10.5 compression, & 282/480 hydraulic cam”. That’s all I got & he passed after battle w/cancer.

I did figure out it has a massive Holly Demon carb sitting up top….something I’ve never opened up. This should get interesting. Perhaps I should have waited to install Vintage Air, Electric Fan, & relocate Alternator until I got it running…:cool:

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Could be interesting!

My car came to me in a similar fashion. I purchased it from the previous owner's Widow. I had no info other than what I could see for myself. But of all the cars I looked at back then, this one was hands down the best IMO.
 
That car is screaming for an LS or LT swap…. :p

Don
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
That car is screaming for an LS or LT swap…. :p

Don
Indeed! LS swap is not off the table, although I’d like to drive it “as is” for a while if this engine doesn’t have major issues. Then at a minimum I want to convert to EFI. I converted my ‘63 VW based dune buggy to EFI a couple years ago & it’s much friendlier to drive. I’ve been reading ahead in the EFI forum about the Sniper system; will circle back under a separate thread to follow that evolution after I see where the evaluation of this engine leads.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
UPDATE #1

1. Determined carb that came with car/engine is 850 cfm & for a 383 street car, that’s way too big. We believe that explains why smelled so rich out the exhaust & stumbling was due to loading. I borrowed a couple 600 cfm carbs (EdelBrock & Rochester QuadraJet) to test with & we’ll see how that works.

2. Recently engine was running even worse, and we determined air filter base plate was rubbing & somehow holding choke fully CLOSED; so that may be root cause for the backfires out of carb & exhaust.

3. Found (1) fouled plug; most likely due to the excessive fuel situation.

Will keep notes as we go & keep posting; hopefully my learning experience will help someone down the road.
 
throw a 600 on it, I would go with the Eddy as they are simple, and just sent fuel mixture and check timing. If its still a points car look at those or swap in a Pertronix kit

The 383 may otherwise be just fine but motor is way over carbed and the air cleaner holding choke closed will make it run like crap

how does it run without air cleaner?

also assume the fuel is not years old...or is it??
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Didn’t try running it w/out the air filter on, just went ahead to change to a 600 cfm carb to test. Prior to choke being stuck closed; it still stumbled a lot in the few miles I drove it. It had some fuel in it when I got car 3+ years ago & I put stabilizer in, plus added some fuel recently. We actually talked yesterday about draining the tank since less than 1/8th full.
 
I'd train the tank. Adding good fuel to bad fuel just give you more bad fuel.
 
Tune it up, new plugs, fuel, carb before you start changing or "upgrading" stuff. A tuned right size carb is fine, been used for decades with no issues. Had a BB like that from PO and after new points, plugs swapped carb, new gas tank and timing back to stock. That was 10 years ago and the 69 Chevelle SS still runs like a top.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
UPDATE #2

1. Completed testing with borrowed 600 cfm carb & it cleaned up nicely; therefore, ordering a new Holly 600

2. Compression & leak down tests good

3. Pulled valve covers to investigate what we thought was valve/lifter noise; however, found that rockers are hitting valve covers. Need to figure out what “tall/deep” covers will work & get them ordered (open to recommendations please)

Continuing to keep notes & will post updates; this is a good learning experience
 
UPDATE #2

1. Completed testing with borrowed 600 cfm carb & it cleaned up nicely; therefore, ordering a new Holly 600

2. Compression & leak down tests good

3. Pulled valve covers to investigate what we thought was valve/lifter noise; however, found that rockers are hitting valve covers. Need to figure out what “tall/deep” covers will work & get them ordered (open to recommendations please)

Continuing to keep notes & will post updates; this is a good learning experience
If it’s not too far off you could run thick or double valve cover gaskets.
 
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Discussion starter · #15 ·
UPDATE #3

1. Completed installation of new Holly 600 carb & dialed in idle

2. Emptied old fuel

3. Installed new Edlebrock valve covers

4. Installed PCV valve

5. Flush/filled radiator, installed new 180 deg thermostat, installed recovery tank

6. Determined source of oil leak & repaired; was the line going to pressure sensor

Starts & runs great now; next step is to get some driving time! Then schedule to have Vintage Air charged for 1st time.
 
These cars were not designed for a recovery tank. Just keep the coolant level a few inches below full, may have the level mark on the tank. Yesterday I gave my 56Kmiles new plugs and points and checked everything out, been 20 years and 12k miles since last tune up, runs great and still has the original 750 Q jet. Too many changes seem to create problems, I know I have 7 other ones that some changes were good most a waste of money for not much advantage.
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Discussion starter · #17 ·
I wasn’t aware 1968 did not have a recovery tank with original radiator. PO installed the aluminum radiator and had a hose going to asphalt off the cap. Below is the tank I’m using; what will happen if I keep it installed, anything bad?

 
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