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69 Console w/4 Speed

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wdwisser

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello,
I am putting in a console I purchased. When trying to put it in there is a tab that is in the way of the 4 speed. When ready through the assembly manual (D55-A4) it says to remove this tab for a 4-speed trans. Is this the case or do I have something incorrect?

any help appreciated.
Bill
 
#4 ·
Yes, remove the tab. I guess it serves a purpose with an automatic shifter?
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Here’s the console with the tab removed and bolted into the car. I’ve not gotten the correct shifter in it but the console is in. My next question is why is my gas gauge pegged all the way to full? I know I don’t have a full tank of gas. It does this with the car running or just the key in the on position.
 

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#7 ·
wdwisser said:
Here’s the console with the tab removed and bolted into the car. I’ve not gotten the correct shifter in it but the console is in. My next question is why is my gas gauge pegged all the way to full? I know I don’t have a full tank of gas. It does this with the car running or just the key in the on position.
Click to expand...
The console gauges and harness are a new install as well?
 
#8 ·
wdwisser said:
My next question is why is my gas gauge pegged all the way to full? I know I don’t have a full tank of gas. It does this with the car running or just the key in the on position.
Click to expand...
You have an open somewhere in the circuit, (tan wire), between the gauge and the sender. Or, the sender is stuck in the full position, doubtful, however.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
69-er said:
You have an open somewhere in the circuit, (tan wire), between the gauge and the sender. Or, the sender is stuck in the full position, doubtful, however.
Click to expand...
The sender was on E and when I plugged it in then it moved to full. I'm not sure how to check to see how I may have an open circuit. The harness is new as the old one was long gone. The gauges are old and look to be in good shape from what I can tell (everything in tacked and connect to the appropriate terminals).
 
#10 ·
Starting at the back and working your way forward is one way to do this. Check that the sender is properly grounded. The terminal is at the forward end of the right trunk support. It's in the vicinity of the right forward corner of the tank. If it looks good disconnect the tan wire at the connector in the trunk by the latch and ground it. That should peg the gauge to E. This is assuming the gauge is good and connected correctly.

Tell us what you get.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
69-er said:
Starting at the back and working your way forward is one way to do this. Check that the sender is properly grounded. The terminal is at the forward end of the right trunk support. It's in the vicinity of the right forward corner of the tank. If it looks good disconnect the tan wire at the connector in the trunk by the latch and ground it. That should peg the gauge to E. This is assuming the gauge is good and connected correctly.

Tell us what you get.
Click to expand...
Okay, I’ve disconnected where the wire in the trunk that goes through the trunk floor to the sending unit and connected it to ground and the gauge goes to E. Picture for reference. If that is correct I need to relocate the ground?
 

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#12 ·
That's telling us that the tan wire to the gauge is good. You have open somewhere between that connector and the ground at the trunk support. Make sure that ground is good. If it is then it's time to drop the tank and look at the sender.
 
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Discussion starter · #13 ·
69-er said:
That's telling us that the tan wire to the gauge is good. You have open somewhere between that connector and the ground at the trunk support. Make sure that ground is good. If it is then it's time to drop the tank and look at the sender.
Click to expand...
Ahh biscuits. Alright I’ll disconnect and reconnect the ground… maybe that is the issue. Thanks for the help this far, electrical issues are not my strongest suit. I’m not sure how to test it other than taking it off unless an ohmmeter or something can check the connectivity.
 
#14 ·
wdwisser said:
Ahh biscuits. Alright I’ll disconnect and reconnect the ground… maybe that is the issue. Thanks for the help this far, electrical issues are not my strongest suit. I’m not sure how to test it other than taking it off unless an ohmmeter or something can check the connectivity.
Click to expand...
It can be pain. Treat it like plumbing. Switches are valves, voltage is pressure, amps is volume, resistors are partially closed valves, diodes are check valves, etc.

You can check the continuity between that connector, through the sender and to any convenient ground. If the sender, connectors and sender ground is good it would read approximately anywhere between 0-90 ohms depending on the fuel quantity. 0 empty, 90 full.
 
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Discussion starter · #15 ·
69-er said:
It can be pain. Treat it like plumbing. Switches are valves, voltage is pressure, amps is volume, resistors are partially closed valves, diodes are check valves, etc.

You can check the continuity between that connector, through the sender and to any convenient ground. If the sender, connectors and sender ground is good it would read approximately anywhere between 0-90 ohms depending on the fuel quantity. 0 empty, 90 full.
Click to expand...
So I can test it from the trunk wiring that goes through the trunk floor by hooking up an ohmmeter to that wire and to ground (the chassis). Or would I need to drop the tank to test it directly?
 
#16 ·
One way to test it directly without dropping the tank is to connect one ohm meter lead to the connector terminal in the trunk and the other to the ground terminal underneath. I would unscrew the ground first just so you know you have the lead clipped securely to the ring terminal. There are no more connections between those two points. If it's open then it's new sender time.
 
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Discussion starter · #17 ·
69-er said:
One way to test it directly without dropping the tank is to connect one ohm meter lead to the connector terminal in the trunk and the other to the ground terminal underneath. I would unscrew the ground first just so you know you have the lead clipped securely to the ring terminal. There are no more connections between those two points. If it's open then it's new sender time.
Click to expand...
I connected my tester to the terminal to the sender and just a random ground and it shows 63.3 on the meter. Do I connect it to the ground from the sender on the chassis (after disconnecting it from the body)? Will that be a different reading?
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
wdwisser said:
I connected my tester to the terminal to the sender and just a random ground and it shows 63.3 on the meter. Do I connect it to the ground from the sender on the chassis (after disconnecting it from the body)? Will that be a different reading?
Click to expand...
okay, I connected to the wire from the trunk to the sender and to the ground from the sender (disconnected from the body) and I have a reading of 68.0
 
#19 ·
Sounds like the sender might be good sfter all. That about 2/3 full. Connect the ground lead directly to the ground terminal.
 
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#20 ·
Try reconnecting everything back up. Sounds like it may have been a bad connection.
 
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wdwisser
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