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69 Console w/4 Speed

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#23 ·
Yeah, not making sense. Since you are getting 60ish ohms on the sender resitance the gauge should read anything but F.

Try this. Do you leads have sharp points? With the connector connected take a resistance reading across the connector at each wire. Puncture the insulation. You should be very close to 0 ohms. Wiggle it too. Do the same at the ground. Puncture the insulation and touch the other to the metal around the screw. There's an open somewhere.

Forgot to add earlier that all resistance check are with power off.
 
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#24 ·
Not to say this is your problem, but I was once having gas gauge issues, didn't bother much cause I knew I had plenty of gas, then I come to notice it only happened when I put the parking brake on, turned out that where the rear body harness plug connects to the dash harness is right there by the parking brake, at the top of the kick panel under the dash, the parking brake was rubbing the plug when applied and making bad connections
 
#25 ·
Jerry, you make an excellent point. Electrical troubleshooting can be an art as well as a science. You have to think outside the box. Something seemingly totally unrelated can cause problems.
 
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Discussion starter · #26 ·
69-er said:
Jerry, you make an excellent point. Electrical troubleshooting can be an art as well as a science. You have to think outside the box. Something seemingly totally unrelated can cause problems.
Click to expand...
I did notice, once and only once, that the gas gauge did work but the lights on the console weren't coming on when I turned on the lights but when I finally gotten the lights on the console to work the gas gauge is now pegged. It could be a coincidence but it is odd. I had not had that happen since that one time though so thought it was nothing but maybe it is something.
 
#27 ·
Since the gauge will read E when the tan wire is grounded it would seem that everything up there is working properly. My only thought would be to turn on the lights and see how the gauge reacts. You can also remove the gauge to eliminate everything around it and connect it back up to the circuit. Since the lights are a total separate circuit except for the ground system I can't see anything obvious that would influence the gauge.

But ya never know...
 
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Discussion starter · #28 ·
Okay… I disconnected the wire in the trunk that goes to the sending unit along with the ground that goes to the body and hooked my ohmmeter to those two wires and I’m getting nothing or just the value of 1.0. Shouldn’t it be reading something since I have gas in the tank?
 
#29 ·
No, you are just measuring the resistance to through the tail lights. Connect the leads to the tan wire going to the sender and the body to check for the sender resistance. (Which you have already done. You got 63 ohms).

Here are a few snips of my diagrams that may help you to visualize how everything is wired. I used the diagram w/o gauges as it's a little simpler to follow.

Image


Image


Image

Image
 
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Discussion starter · #30 ·
69-er said:
No, you are just measuring the resistance to through the tail lights. Connect the leads to the tan wire going to the sender and the body to check for the sender resistance. (Which you have already done. You got 63 ohms).

Here are a few snips of my diagrams that may help you to visualize how everything is wired. I used the diagram w/o gauges as it's a little simpler to follow.

View attachment 293493

View attachment 293496

View attachment 293494
View attachment 293495
Click to expand...
thanks for the diagram… it is helpful.

Shouldn’t I be able to test the wires on the sender by connecting them same as if you had the sender out of the tank? You could connect the ohmmeter ( red wire on tester to sender wire and ground to black wire from the sender. ) and it would show a reading of resistance based on the fuel in the tank?
 
#31 ·
Yes, exactly. Didn't you do that too already?
 
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wdwisser
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