Team Camaro Tech banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

69 z/28 won't keep running

Jump to Latest
4.7K views 40 replies 12 participants last post by  gimmea250swb  
G
#1 ·
I recently refreshed some components in the engine bay which required removing the alternator, PS pump and exhaust manifolds. Cleaned, blasted, repainted and installed. After complete, we went for a drive. My wife in the Z and I was in a different old car. During the drive, my wife noted a stuttering/missing feeling. Then, the car stalled, backfired and died. Fortunately she was in a safe place and got off the road. It took me 2-3 minutes to notice she wasn't behind me anymore.

While waiting for the tow truck I decided to try to start it up. The battery was strained to turn the starter. I jumped it and got the car running. Everything was smooth and while on the phone to cancel the tow truck, the car died again.

The fuel seems to be good. When I push the throttle there's a nice spray of fuel.

I believe I connected the alternator correctly - square connector and wire/boot to the red connector location on the alternator.

I'm charging the battery now. Please help me with my gremlin :)
 
G
#7 ·
I just tried to get it running. Started with 12.9 volts after a trickle charge. I had a couple chugga chuggas, but it never got going. I had it cranking for a bit and it started smoking at the grounding wire on the fender. You can see it melted the insulation. Looking back, I may have had it cranking for 20 seconds or so. Would cranking that long cause it to smoke, or an indicator of something else?
Nothing was loose at the voltage regulator as mentioned above.

Edit: I did refinish that fender screw when cleaning the engine.

Image
 
O
#13 ·
Glad you found it. I was about to say that I've seen the main battery ground cable go bad inside the cable. In one spot it was "mushy" but looked good. Fun times.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
G
#22 ·
Well, I'll close this out - hopefully permanently...
I had the prior coil that was fine before changing out to an original Delco 270 coil. I hooked it up and had the same bad stutter. Crap. I went to check my connection again and noticed a wire unconnected to the negative terminal - the one from the dizzy. I recalled when pulling out the dizzy the screw that tightened the holding bracket was loose. I put the 270 back in with all the wires connected and vroom, no issue. So, right now I think the bracket screw loosened, the coil rotated eventually resulting in the distributor connection coming off. I don't know. I let the car run for 10-15 minutes in the garage and no issues. Maybe tomorrow I'll take it around the block a few times. Thanks and hopefully this one is done...
 
G
#23 ·
I spoke too soon. I took the car around the block for maybe 5 mins and no issues. The next day I turned the key, immediate start, drove it out on the road 50mph 20 minute drive or so and it bucked a little and died. I towed it home again.

The negative battery terminal to chassis wire insulation is melted from before, but the continuity is good. I've got continuity to the block (thick Neg terminal wire). I bought a brand new coil from Advanced Auto and installed it. I cranked for a bit and not even a chugga chugga. I've got a nice fuel spray in the carb when accelerator pedal is pressed. I put an inline spark plug tester on the cylinder 1 and it shows a spark. I checked my wiring and discovered I had my condenser connected to negative instead of positive and moved it to +. [GRRRR, way to introduce a new variable] Still no luck. I did check the coil resistance on the new coil and it seems to be good. Battery power is 12.5V
 
#24 ·
Have you checked the dwell since you have points? I could not keep my new set of points adjusted. I finally pitched them in favor of a Pertronix module. At one point they fully closed and my car died on the way home from a car cruise. I was changing coils etc. thinking it had to be something other than the points because I had just tuned the engine. Nope...junk points.
 
#28 ·
Another thought..Wonder if your voltage regulator might be going bad. I remember back in my teen years with my car, I had some similar problems. Regulator ended up dying. Also had an intermittently failing fuel pump, but you have said a couple of times that you have good fuel spray. Does your car have console gages? If so, is the ammeter showing anything funny?
 
G
#29 ·
Thanks Rich for helping me out. I'll do a search to check if there's a way to test the VR. I'm happy to buy one, but would love to learn how to isolate the issue. It's just odd to me that I'm getting spark but no boom and there have been no timing adjustments. I wonder if a fried condenser contribute to this symptom?

I do have gauges, I'll check that during start and report. I'll get the dizzy installed tomorrow AM.
 
G
#32 ·
It seems that I should be able to get it to at least start now. I still have good spray. I get your point on running out of fuel, but I’m not getting anything at all.
After putting the distributor cap back on. I thought I’d double check the clock on the rotor. I think the dizzy is off clock. I checked TDC by putting my finger over the spark plug hole to feel compression. The rotor pointed in this direction. It looks like it’s okay for some angle BTDC.

I checked the + coil with key on. 6.5V.
I’ll get some starter fluid just in case.

Image

Image
 
#34 ·
gimmea250swb said:
It seems that I should be able to get it to at least start now. I still have good spray. I get your point on running out of fuel, but I’m not getting anything at all.
After putting the distributor cap back on. I thought I’d double check the clock on the rotor. I think the dizzy is off clock. I checked TDC by putting my finger over the spark plug hole to feel compression. The rotor pointed in this direction. It looks like it’s okay for some angle BTDC.

I checked the + coil with key on. 6.5V.
I’ll get some starter fluid just in case.

View attachment 295562
View attachment 295563
Click to expand...
If it ran before, it’s not the timing…unless the timing chain is broken. Does the rotor spin while cranking? Typically it’s supposed to point towards cylinder #1. You need to rotate the engine to align the notch on the tab and balancer to verify its correct .
 
Team Camaro Tech
posts
2.4M
members
90K
Since
1998
A forum community dedicated to 1st generation Chevy Camaros owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, builds, restoration, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, reviews, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Bench Racing Engine Body Shop Performance Brakes, Suspension & Steering