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what is wrong with this picture ?? I have had a problem with a tire hitting the finder . on the right is a drum brake hub and knuckle .

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#61 ·
The steering arms are medium, and match.
There might be a slight advantage in the shorter arms but for a driver it should be fine.
The center link looks like the heavier one, so that’s good.
Last time I looked it was rare to find all the components to duplicate the original quick steering.
The auto cross guys can give you more direction on that aspect.
 
Discussion starter · #63 ·
Worn Out Welder said:
The steering arms are medium, and match.
There might be a slight advantage in the shorter arms but for a driver it should be fine.
The center link looks like the heavier one, so that’s good.
Last time I looked it was rare to find all the components to duplicate the original quick steering.
The auto cross guys can give you more direction on that aspect.
Click to expand...
I did not know of any medium steering arm ?? I fine it strange that with the long Pitman arm their is not a same length Idler arm ??? If you look close the drag link looks to be further away from the chassis on the passenger side . This I expect to be from the shorter idler .
Thank you for your input .
Joe
 
Discussion starter · #64 ·
Joe camaro 396ss said:
I did not know of any medium steering arm ?? I fine it strange that with the long Pitman arm their is not a same length Idler arm ??? If you look close the drag link looks to be further away from the chassis on the passenger side . This I expect to be from the shorter idler .
Thank you for your input .
Joe
Click to expand...
Who is the auto cross guys ??
 
#66 ·
Joe camaro 396ss said:
I did not know of any medium steering arm ?? I fine it strange that with the long Pitman arm their is not a same length Idler arm ??? If you look close the drag link looks to be further away from the chassis on the passenger side . This I expect to be from the shorter idler .
Thank you for your input .
Joe
Click to expand...
If you look at Pozzis web site, there is a wealth of information that explains all the combinations of steering components that were OEM.
If your genuinely interested in understanding these components and the possible combinations, this is a must read through in it’s entirety.
Auto cross guys put these and other cars through a closed course that is demanding of well handling high performance. You should look up some, or perhaps
a member has some videos they can link.
 
#71 ·
Those holes are swedged (spelling) in and not simply self tapped. Use the plate with nuts solution above.

Don
 
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#72 ·
dhutton said:
Those holes are swedged (spelling) in and not simply self tapped. Use the plate with nuts solution above.

Don
Click to expand...
Swedged? So does that mean it's not flat inside the frame. When I posted my first reply I assumed the frame was tapped. You would think I would have encountered this in ten years under the alignment rack but don't recall ever doing this repair. I believe David Pozzi has some tips on his site.

Jeff
 
#73 ·
The swedge, as Don described, is a hole that pushes the material inward, forming a “wall” to allow for more thread engagement. (That’s my poor description)
Here’s a visual, but I’m sure you’ll recognize it.
Image
 
#74 ·
yellow69RS said:
Swedged? So does that mean it's not flat inside the frame. When I posted my first reply I assumed the frame was tapped. You would think I would have encountered this in ten years under the alignment rack but don't recall ever doing this repair. I believe David Pozzi has some tips on his site.

Jeff
Click to expand...
It was from David that I learned they are swedged holes. :)

Don
 
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Discussion starter · #77 ·
yellow69RS said:
Swedged? So does that mean it's not flat inside the frame. When I posted my first reply I assumed the frame was tapped. You would think I would have encountered this in ten years under the alignment rack but don't recall ever doing this repair. I believe David Pozzi has some tips on his site.

Jeff
Click to expand...
no it is not flat ., I will post a pic tomorrow
 
#78 ·
I have used them on several low torque applications.
Be sure they are steel ( preferably knurled) and the drill size is critical for maximum grip.
Nickle base anti seize is a good idea to use on the mandrel or bolt that is used to “ pull” the riv nut.
Just passing thoughts đź‘Ť
 
#79 ·
I honestly don’t think a rivnut will work in that application. They will pull out in no time.

Don
 
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#80 · (Edited)
dhutton said:
I honestly don’t think a rivnut will work in that application. They will pull out in no time.

Don
Click to expand...
With respect, I would have thought a 1.5 D riv nut would be close to the clamping force of a burred hole and a 5/16 lag type screw….perhaps your correct.
The nut plate is a better solution, just a little tedious to employ.
There is the aspect of sourcing the appropriate type and material, which is another problem all it’s own in a world full of cheap alternatives.
No sense in over thinking or complicating a simple fix…..
 
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