Hello all. I've search but all I found was axle off to the right or left or way too far back. I installed a Ridetech 4 link suspension kit (coilover) and a have a brand new Moser 12 bolt rear end. Followed all the instructions as far as pinion angle, axle bracket angle and distance from each other, ride height etc. Bought wheel simulator kit and noticed the tire is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch to the rear. Note that I have adjustable upper R Joint bars but not the lower bars. I spoke to a Ridetech rep and was advised to adjust/shorten the upper bars and I should be able to move the axle forward. Is this possible since the lower bars are non adjustable? I was going to buy the adjustable ones. Would really appreciate any suggestions.
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Axle about 3/4" to the rear....Ridetech / Moser combo
uncgeorge68
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Hello all. I've search but all I found was axle off to the right or left or way too far back. I installed a Ridetech 4 link suspension kit (coilover) and a have a brand new Moser 12 bolt rear end. Followed all the instructions as far as pinion angle, axle bracket angle and distance from each other, ride height etc. Bought wheel simulator kit and noticed the tire is about 1/2 to 3/4 inch to the rear. Note that I have adjustable upper R Joint bars but not the lower bars. I spoke to a Ridetech rep and was advised to adjust/shorten the upper bars and I should be able to move the axle forward. Is this possible since the lower bars are non adjustable? I was going to buy the adjustable ones. Would really appreciate any suggestions.
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It does move front to back as you adjust the pinion angle. It’s just the way the geometry of their four link works. Set your pinion angle at ride height and the wheels land where they land. Bad advice to center it with upper bars since that will change the pinion angle.
If you want to center it better you will need adjustable lower bars.
Don
If you want to center it better you will need adjustable lower bars.
Don
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Thanks Don. I agree on the adjustable lower bars. The gentlemen I spoke to said that I really can't center the axle on the wheel well without the engine, transmission and drive shaft as I would need the transmission to sit about 2 degrees down.
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So long as it is at ride height with correct pinion I don’t see what the transmission and driveshaft have to do with unless they force you to adjust the pinion angle.
I use pieces of square tube to replace the coilovers during the build. The length of the tube simulates the length of the coilover when it is roughly centered in its travel which should be your ride height.
Don
Maybe he wants the engine and transmission installed to make the car be the actual weight. Then he can adjust the ride height. Adjusting the ride height and then adding 1500 lbs. will make the car sit lower. Maybe I am just blowing hot air.
I think as four link suspension articulates up and down, the wheels travel in the shape of the letter "C". When the four links bars are the most horizontal, the wheels are toward the rear of the car. When the wheel moves up or down, the wheel also moves forward a little. 3/4" seems to be excessive.
The centerline of the wheelhouse can easily be found with a piece of string. Secure the string to the bottom edges of the wheelhouse. When the upper two lines of the yellow triangle are the same length, the top point is the center line.
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Drop a plumb bob from the center line and position your axle.
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Adjust your links to fit. This will get you in the ballpark. More adjustment is needed. Adjust your pinion angle. There are internet computer calculators that will calculate your anti squat, instant center and other parameters.
I think as four link suspension articulates up and down, the wheels travel in the shape of the letter "C". When the four links bars are the most horizontal, the wheels are toward the rear of the car. When the wheel moves up or down, the wheel also moves forward a little. 3/4" seems to be excessive.
The centerline of the wheelhouse can easily be found with a piece of string. Secure the string to the bottom edges of the wheelhouse. When the upper two lines of the yellow triangle are the same length, the top point is the center line.
Drop a plumb bob from the center line and position your axle.
Adjust your links to fit. This will get you in the ballpark. More adjustment is needed. Adjust your pinion angle. There are internet computer calculators that will calculate your anti squat, instant center and other parameters.
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No need to wait until car is complete to get the car at ride height. Just replace coilovers with square tube the length of the coilover shock centered in its travel. Its really that simple and done by chassis and car builders as standard practice.
Don
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I used a couple of 1” PVC pipe in place of coilovers and measure 14.5 center to center. I have the axle on jack stands and the car on a rotisserie so I can easily lower it to ride height. I actually have the tire tucked inside the wheel well but the photo I took was after I raised the car.
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Tucking tire on a 68 is a low ride height. Be careful you don’t end up with the pinion higher than transmission tail shaft because that inverts your driveline angles and things can get challenging, often requiring a CV driveshaft.
Don
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The adjustable lower arms will fix your issue if I understand what you're saying. It's not a ride height issue, it's a tracking issue.
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It is related to ride height. The axles move front to back as the pinion angle is adjusted. And it has to be at ride height to set the pinion angle. So it’s not really a side to side tracking issue which is rectified by slightly adjusting the length of the upper bars in opposite directions.
Don
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It looks like he has the car at ride height, and has his pinion angle where he wants it. Will changing his upper bar length when he already has everything else where he wants it not effect the pinion angle ? If he had adjustable lower arms, he could bring the tires foreward and re adjust the pinion. I don't see how he can get the results he is wants without adjusting the placement of the lowers since it is already at ride height. I recently went through this with a nova. I made new lower arms and the problem was solved.
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Read post #2.
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Yes. That's what I was saying too. đź‘ŤRead post #2.
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Thank you gentlemen for your help. Adjustable lower bars are on order. Ridetech was kind enough to exchange my non adjustable and gave me credit for using their products.
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Ok so I’m having almost the same exact issues but in reverse. I just installed the 4 link yesterday and my rear end is way forward I’d say a inch from the front quarter to where my driveshaft won’t even go in. The lower links are non adjustable. Was the only solution after buying this expensive kit to buy more parts and wait on them to ship and be delivered.
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Tried everything but the axle is not going anywhere with the fix bars unless you relocate the bar/shock brackets. Ordered the double adjustable bars and should arrive this week. Ridetech were very helpful with me on this issue.
68 SS/RS, 468 BB TKX, SFC,3.73 Posi, Original Some kinda metallic Blue, QA1 Coil Overs/control arms.
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I just read this post and have a question to ask you guys since you seemed so knowledgeable in this subject. On my 68 I was having issues finding a good pinion angle after converting to a TKX in my lowered 68 with leaf springs.
I noticed from standing and looking at the wheel in the wheel well it is slightly sitting rear of the center of the opening. I just never noticed this before and now wonder if the 6* shim may have caused this or could my rear springs have been made for a similar vehicle? I dont have any driveability issues but this post got me to ask a question.
I noticed from standing and looking at the wheel in the wheel well it is slightly sitting rear of the center of the opening. I just never noticed this before and now wonder if the 6* shim may have caused this or could my rear springs have been made for a similar vehicle? I dont have any driveability issues but this post got me to ask a question.
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