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Help! McLeod Hydraulic Clutch Pedal Adjustment

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StevieBB54

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68 SS/RS, 468 BB TKX, SFC,3.73 Posi, Original Some kinda metallic Blue, QA1 Coil Overs/control arms.
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1,252 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey Guys, I just installed the TKX with McLeod hydraulic clutch assembly. I am buttoning up the slave cylinder/pedal install, but nowhere does the directions say how much if any pedal free play there should be. Ive searched countless videos and its all the same stuff showing how to measure TOB gap, but not pedal play.
Anyone know a good rule of thumb to use when setting this up, using McLeods replacement pedal? Also does their pedal require a pedal stop or is that factored in the geometry already? The pedal does sit lower to the floor than the mechanical oem one.
Thanks in advance
🍻 😎
 
#2 ·
Might want to reach out to Lee or Red @ McLeod about their pedal set up ?

or maybe someone here running your setup can advise.

With that said hydraulic set ups where the MC is attached to pedal don't have "slop", freeplay if you will, like mechanical linkage set ups do. They are more like brakes in terms of as soon as you touch pedal, you are compressing hydraulics. Pedal stroke is typically shorter than mechanical linkage clutch setups.

You do need the correct gap between TO/slave and PP which typically involves shims between the TO and front case to get the correct gap.

My McLeod setup (MC) is on a custom-made pedal assembly (not in my Camaro) and I have a pedal stop. It is the alan head bolt about in the middle of clutch pedal arm (pic) which I can adjust in/out. Also I have, and assume you do to, an adjustable MC rod which can adjust the stroke length of MC. I use a NSS from a 4th gen Camaro and have the pedal travel set up so it hits the stop just before bottoming out the NSS.

Ideally you have some form of pedal stop so you do not overextend the TO bearing with to much pedal travel.

Image
 
#3 ·
StevieBB54 said:
Hey Guys, I just installed the TKX with McLeod hydraulic clutch assembly. I am buttoning up the slave cylinder/pedal install, but nowhere does the directions say how much if any pedal free play there should be. Ive searched countless videos and its all the same stuff showing how to measure TOB gap, but not pedal play.
Anyone know a good rule of thumb to use when setting this up, using McLeods replacement pedal? Also does their pedal require a pedal stop or is that factored in the geometry already? The pedal does sit lower to the floor than the mechanical oem one.
Thanks in advance
🍻 😎
Click to expand...
I've done this on my 67. Keeping it simple for you to try this it out. .025 gap between the pedal and the rod. As in close to a spark plug gap. The rod has to be fully disengaged at the brake pedal. That amount will allow there to be no pressure on the rod.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
fairfax1000 said:
I've done this on my 67. Keeping it simple for you to try this it out. .025 gap between the pedal and the rod. As in close to a spark plug gap. The rod has to be fully disengaged at the brake pedal. That amount will allow there to be no pressure on the rod.
Click to expand...
Thanks, thats what I was looking for. It makes sense. The directions that came with the kit say to drill a new hole in existing pedal using the template they provide which they didn’t, and it had a replacement pedal and nothing about a pedal stop. Guess I can check with Jody on Monday. Thanks guys.
 
#5 ·
StevieBB54 said:
Thanks, thats what I was looking for. It makes sense. The directions that came with the kit say to drill a new hole in existing pedal using the template they provide which they didn’t, and it had a replacement pedal and nothing about a pedal stop. Guess I can check with Jody on Monday. Thanks guys.
Click to expand...
Think about the logic....you're not supposed to use the clutch until you have to so it's not being "ridden", just like the brakes. And I'm pretty sure you only have to push the clutch about 1/2 way for everything to work anyway.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
fairfax1000 said:
Think about the logic....you're not supposed to use the clutch until you have to so it's not being "ridden", just like the brakes. And I'm pretty sure you only have to push the clutch about 1/2 way for everything to work anyway.
Click to expand...
I realize that but I want to be sure theres no pressure on slave going down the road. .025 is a lot tighter than 1to 1-1/2” lol
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Are there pedal stop kits available, or do I just make one by drilling hole in floorboard and make an adjustable bolt stop?
Depending how far off the floor I needed to stay, I wondered if I could make a rubber block and use adhesive to secure to bottom of pedal.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Yes I have this, may need a new one though. I must have misunderstood the request. I thought there might be a floor mounted oedal stop, so you don’t overextend the skave rod and damage slave piston.
 
#12 ·
I would suspect a stock clutch pedal stop may not work with a hydraulic clutch as the pedal travel would be shorter.

A home made one with nut welded to a bracket (L shape?) with bolt and rubber cap on end (use a door stop end cap) placed somewhere where the length can be adjusted to stop pedal when needed is one way....or the $$ one shown in link 11.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
Let me ask here what is the goal to be looking for? Are we looking for travel limit when pedal is at the top or are you supposed to limit travel at the floor (disengaged)? For some reason I presumed the McLead pedal was made with correct hole location in order to limit overtravel.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Yes. Their directions that come with it are not that accurate and their website really sucks. Thats why I am inquiring. Thanks
 
#16 ·
StevieBB54 said:
Are there pedal stop kits available, or do I just make one by drilling hole in floorboard and make an adjustable bolt stop?
Depending how far off the floor I needed to stay, I wondered if I could make a rubber block and use adhesive to secure to bottom of pedal.
Click to expand...
I have some from a nascar team. Just threaded rod big flat thick washer welded on top. Nut and bolt to hold it at height at floor. Can send pic or give any of u guys one. I can’t use em all.
 
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