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gcjswaney

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hello,
My name is George. I have a 1971 Camaro coupe, with a 383 stoker. It's the one and only car that I have restored. I love driving it but had some issues the other night and was towed home. I am not a mechanic but enjoy trying to do things on my own. I was wondering if I might get some ideas on the problems that I am having.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
I was out for a ride the other day and I lost power and stalled. I do not have power to my radio nor my turn signals. I used a spark tester on my distributor and it does not light when turned over. I have a accel super coil 140003 and bought a new cap. However I want to make sure that's the problem before I open the box. The tach wire from the distributor was hooked to the radio under the dash as well as turn signal.
Image
 
#4 ·
Do your headlights come on?

1st things 1st. Start with the battery. Make sure it's fully charged and the battery terminal are clean and tight.

Next check all your fuses.

I can't imagine the tach and turn signal wires hooked to the radio.
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
Battery is fully charged. I have a tender on it when not driving. All wires look good as well as all the fuses. I have head lights, parking lights, inside dome light, console ashtray light and hazard lights.
 
#8 ·
Check the wires on the horn relay front corner over the carbon canister. Also you may have burnt up a fusible link so check for burnt wires in the same area. Use your meter starting at the battery and see where battery voltage stops.
 
#9 ·
Cranking has nothing to do with ignition. For a test you can run a red wire from the BATT + to the Coil +. This is called hot wiring. Crank it and see of it starts. If it does start and runs you will need to disconnect the wire to shut it off.

If this works then your issue is the pink wire where is connected to or where it came loose.
 
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#10 · (Edited)
gcjswaney said:
I tried that and I do not show any power. The wires on my distributor on the + side are pink and yellow. This is confusing to me because the engine is cranking.
Click to expand...
You have an aftermarket engine harness most likely from M&H, I have the same colors for my 71 but the cloth covered white resistor wire is replaced with a full 12 volts pink wire. The yellow comes from the starter and is not needed with a 12 volt harness but M&H leaves it in place, maybe for originality.Go figure, pink is not original but it is for 12 volts. I did lose my 12 volt ignition power once when the half roundish dash cable that sits on top of the steering column started to disconnect.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Vega$69 said:
Cranking has nothing to do with ignition. For a test you can run a red wire from the BATT + to the Coil +. This is called hot wiring. Crank it and see of it starts. If it does start and runs you will need to disconnect the wire to shut it off.

If this works then your issue is the pink wire where is connected to or where it came loose.
Click to expand...
Vega$69 said:
Cranking has nothing to do with ignition. For a test you can run a red wire from the BATT + to the Coil +. This is called hot wiring. Crank it and see of it starts. If it does start and runs you will need to disconnect the wire to shut it off.

If this works then your issue is the pink wire where is connected to or where it came loose.
Click to expand...
Thanks a lot I will give that a go this evening. I did see that I have a spade bit in my fuse box that is hot when I turn the ignition on. If the above works can I use that for my hot wire to the distributor?
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
BillDini said:
You have an aftermarket engine harness most likely from M&H, I have the same colors for my 71 but the cloth covered white resistor wire is replaced with a full 12 volts pink wire. The yellow comes from the starter and is not needed with a 12 volt harness but M&H leaves it in place, maybe for originality.Go figure, pink is not original but it is for 12 volts. I did lose my 12 volt ignition power once when the half roundish dash cable that sits on top of the steering column started to disconnect.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I checked the top of my steering column last night and everything was tight.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
gcjswaney said:
Thanks a lot I will give that a go this evening. I did see that I have a spade bit in my fuse box that is hot when I turn the ignition on. If the above works can I use that for my hot wire to the distributor?
Click to expand...
gcjswaney said:
Thanks a lot I will give that a go this evening. I did see that I have a spade bit in my fuse box that is hot when I turn the ignition on. If the above works can I use that for my hot wire to the distributor?
Click to expand...
I tested it as you suggested and my car started. I will find another wire to tie into the distributor when the ignition is turned on. I have other issues but I will address them one at a time. Thank you so much for your help. Not much for quotes, but I read some interesting facts today concerning the Vietnam Wall. Of the 58 thousand plus names on the wall, over 33 thousand of them were were 18 years old. When I go for ride in my car I always drive by the wall in our town. Please never forget the price that these you men paid for us. I hope I didn't offend you.
Thanks again to you and everyone who help.
 
#16 ·
gcjswaney said:
I tested it as you suggested and my car started. I will find another wire to tie into the distributor when the ignition is turned on. I have other issues but I will address them one at a time. Thank you so much for your help. Not much for quotes, but I read some interesting facts today concerning the Vietnam Wall. Of the 58 thousand plus names on the wall, over 33 thousand of them were were 18 years old. When I go for ride in my car I always drive by the wall in our town. Please never forget the price that these you men paid for us. I hope I didn't offend you.
Thanks again to you and everyone who help.
Click to expand...
Did you run a wire straight from the battery as suggested by Vega to get it to start? If so it is likely you have an issue with the bulkhead connector. With your harness you should have full 12 volts on that pink wire and it is very unlikely M&H did something wrong. Yes we owe our country to all veterans of past, current and future and we should always cherish their service and their unfortunate losses.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
BillDini said:
Did you run a wire straight from the battery as suggested by Vega to get it to start? If so it is likely you have an issue with the bulkhead connector. With your harness you should have full 12 volts on that pink wire and it is very unlikely M&H did something wrong. Yes we owe our country to all veterans of past, current and future and we should always cherish their service and their unfortunate losses.
Click to expand...
Yes I did run the wire from the battery. The pink wire on the harness was working before it stalled. Now I know where to start looking.
Thanks for your help.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
I finally found out my problem. My headers melted a wire that caused the issue. It was hidden and hard to find. Thanks again for your help. I do have another question. Can I run a wire from the male spade bit in fuse box to the radio? It does have power when the key is turn on.
 
#19 ·
Yes you can power the radio from that, "hot in on position" spade. But there may be another spade that is "hot on and acc position" - may be a better choice.

Also, look to see if there is a circuit on the fuse box that includes the radio power, should be, maybe the fuse is blown. Check the owners manual for fuse location. You may find the wire is already there hanging under the dash. I am not real familiar with the early second gen Camaro wiring.
 
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