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Pulled the cluster and replaced the bulbs.

Photo 743 - Lights off

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Photo 744 - Lights on

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Photo 745 - Ignition in the run position. Brake light being on is due to testing the circuit along with the lights. One thing I just realized I failed to do was ground out the oil warning light which I will do at another date.

Your fuel tank is overfilled like mine was last year.
 
Discussion starter · #103 · (Edited)
Tackled the fuel gauge issues I was having with the sending unit. These are very basic in how they work. I failed to snag a photo of the internals but I'd say if you do not have sending unit that is working pop the cover off and take a look. Make sure you have resistance from the through the mounting post, then through the strap and finally inside the cap where the resistance bar (I'm sure there is a technical term but it escapes me that the moment) is located. If you have resistance to that point confirm the copper tang is still attached to the float arm and is clean. I just cleaned the tang and the bar it rides on and presto I had a working sender. Resistance is 0-90 ohm and will should see 90+ when it is full (by the float arm) and around 40ohms when half and basically 0ohms at empty. (roughly).

Photo 748 - sending unit grounded and powered through factory harness.

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Photo 749 - 751 - Gauge showing different positions of the float arm.

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Discussion starter · #105 ·
Since I was having no luck locating a good replacement rear panel due to the previous racoon that took up residence in the car while in storage at my parents home. I pulled the vinyl off the board and removed it. I had an old junk 69 panel so I used it for its board. Once I applied new foam I patched (very crudely) the tear that was in the material. Again thanks racoon...


Photo 755 - Original board chewed by ****.

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Photo 756 - '69 donor (I knew 69 parts were good for something. ;) )

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Photo 757 - foam padding glued

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Photo 758 - Crude vinyl repair

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After it had setup I installed it along with the back seat.


Photos 759 - 760 - Back seat and panel now installed. The panel will have to do until I can find a suitable replacement. I'd rather push forward than delay the project. I can always go back and replace it.

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I looked at another tach option from my stash. At some point the car had a column mounted tach as the cup on the column had an indention.


Photos 761 - 762 - Don Garlits Stars and Stripes tach. Which tach would you go with? SW tach previously posted or the DG S/S tach? I know 1st world problems..

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Discussion starter · #108 ·
Found the bulb for the glove box so I installed it and confirmed it was working along with powering up the tach light to make sure it did not need replacing. Also installled glove box and door.

Photo 763 - 764 - Glove box and door with auxiliary light. Also like to add that's an original "born-with" scratch. I'm kidding. Idk when it happened but it was long before me.

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Photos 765 - 766 - DG S/S tach lit up with the dash cluster.

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Found the bulb for the glove box so I installed it and confirmed it was working along with powering up the tach light to make sure it did not need replacing. Also installled glove box and door.

Photo 763 - 764 - Glove box and door with auxiliary light. Also like to add that's an original "born-with" scratch. I'm kidding. Idk when it happened but it was long before me.

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Photos 765 - 766 - DG S/S tach lit up with the dash cluster.

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You gotta love the Big Daddy tach!!
 
Discussion starter · #110 ·
Back on the horse over the weekend. Cleaned up the subframe tails so I can reinstall it. I'll continue the cleaning on the sub once I am ready to work on the front suspension.


Photos 767 - 769 - Thanks to a good friend Jose (jbtech) I was able to obtain a set of original sub cushions that were taken off an early 68 LOS car.

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Photos 770 - 771 - Subframe tails before cleaning up the old spray bomb black.

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Photos 772 - 774 - Tails cleaned, then using my da polisher I hit everything with M105 & M205 Mequiars.

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Discussion starter · #111 ·
Next I slide the sub back under the body and using my old brass punches as my alignment pins got it all bolted back up.


Photos 775 - 777 - sub bolted up using the pins.

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Next I rolled the ole girl out into the sun for the first time in a few years.


Photos 778 - 781 - overalls before knocking the dust off.

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Next I jacked up the rear and got to work with the pressure washer knocking off all the old dirt and grime to see how bad the rear tub was.


Photos 782 - 784 - Rear tub before

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Discussion starter · #116 ·
Started removing the 50 year old dirt from the lower bulkhead/floor area. Also note the rear brake hole bracket only had 1 bolt and there is no signs of a bolt being installed into the lower hole. Cleaning process was the same as all the others. Citrus degreaser, blue scotchbrite pad and elbow grease. I will through a coat of #7 on everything once I am completely finished with the underside of the car. I still need to work on the pass side tub area and the tail pan section but progress is progress. Also have all the hardware from the leaf spring shackles and shock plates soaking so those photos of before and after will follow in a day or so.


Photos 806 - 807 - Before cleaning

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Photos 808 - 810 - After. I am also gonna try out the Evaporust gel as I picked up a small bottle of it several months ago and this will be a perfect area to give it a try. I don't recall where or who asked the question about original red primer vs red overspray but the last photo shows the majority of the floor has a healthy amount of body color and the primer in the diff area for comparison. This was already established that LOS cars got more color on the floors vs NOR cars but this is just another example of that.

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Discussion starter · #117 ·
Leaf springs are out and note that the original 4 leafs are still there but a 5th leaf was added. This was a common in drag racing applications. I do not plan to remove the 5th leaf as I thing it is a part of the cars story.

Photos 811 - 813 - Leaf springs after removal.

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While the diff is out I popped the cover. Diff was replaced at some point. This is a BL0401G coded rear (C 21 8 casting). Gears are 4.10's & dated 7/68 and again not original to the car as it is a 12D build date. What I found interesting and MAYBE the original carrier which is dated E 29 H (May 29th of 1967). Can I prove it? Of course not but it certainly makes you wonder.. I do not believe the gears and carrier are a matched set due to the almost a year difference in dates but I I have seen "Stranger Things".. :D


Photo 814 - Dates on carrier and ring gear.

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Last up for today are some of the hardware on the diff. Common issue with removing leaf springs are the clip nuts for the leaf spring mounting bracket. Broke one on each side so I will have to source 2 bolts which I'm sure I have in my hoard of bolts and nuts. Hopefully I have the clip nuts also.

Photo 815 - Before cleaning.

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Photos 816 - 817 - Some of the items after cleaning with degreaser and soaking in Evapo. Still have the rest soaking. Note the shackles still showing signs of the dipped black as well as black overspray from the gas tank blackout on LOS cars.

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My buddy Bentley came through with the backup light socket. Got it cleaned up and installed. Now both backups work. Ignore the led light as I didn't have a standard on hand when testing.

Photos 739 -740 - Socket

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Photos 741 - 742 - Installed and working

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It's always a relief when a friend can help out with car repairs. I'm glad to hear that both of your backup lights are now working.
No worries about the LED light; it sounds like you'll be testing it with a standard one later. It's all part of the process when it comes to fixing things up. Good luck with the rest of your car maintenance, and kudos to Bentley for lending a hand!
 
Discussion starter · #119 ·
Photos 818 - 820 - Removal of the forward exhaust hangers. Note the bolts are zinc/cad for the nut inserts and phosphate on the coarse thread bolts. I will have after cleaning/preserving of the hangers in a few weeks.

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Photos 821 - 822 - Floor area where the hangers mount before cleaning.

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Photos 823 - 824 - Zinc/cad bolts after cleaning/preserving. Another note on the different head markings used in same location.

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Photos 825- 827 - Rear tub area still cleaning and noting stamping part number.

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Discussion starter · #120 ·
Photos 828 - 830 - Huge shout out to Chick and his buddy for coming through on a good replacement gas tank to filler tube hose. Here are the before cleaning.

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Photos 831 - 833- Tank to filler hose after cleaning. I have it soaking in something that Chick shared on preserving. I will report back how it faired and what was done. Car's original tower clamps.

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Photos 833 - 834 - I think I have shown these before but here are the dates on the clamps.

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Photo 835 - Another shout out to another good friend Nuge for selling me additional Day 2 item for the car and an amazing front plate from a local speed shop that was based out of Bowling Green, KY. Used them several times refilling my nitrous bottles back in my 4th gen Camaro and racing days.

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