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Discussion starter · #321 ·
I also have a switch on my console to turn on the Monster fan. At full speed it is loud, but very effective. I'm always amazed at how fast it can lower the temp. I have a 185 thermostat and the 195 fan controller. I would like it to run a little cooler, but that is controlled by the fan controller. Like I said before, I'd like to try out the 160 degree fan controller. Vintage Air suggested I do the 195, so that's what I went with.
I dion't want to run it that cold. But with the 195 controller my car averages about 203 or 204 in slow traffic with the A/C on on a hot day. I'm curious what the 160 would do?
 
I dion't want to run it that cold. But with the 195 controller my car averages about 203 or 204 in slow traffic with the A/C on on a hot day. I'm curious what the 160 would do?
Oh, I get it. They have a VA 180F controller harness, too. My first thought is their decision to stock so many seems shortsighted, engineering-wise - they could have made one controller with a selector jumper to cover all three ranges in a single part.

If it isn't dieseling and you have good AC, you might consider calling it good.
 
I dion't want to run it that cold. But with the 195 controller my car averages about 203 or 204 in slow traffic with the A/C on on a hot day. I'm curious what the 160 would do?
The thermostat will dominate. I can’t remember where your controller is but if it is in the intake this is a bad idea because the fan will run too much too fast even when the thermostat is closed.

Don
 
Carl's new Brushless Fan PWM can be set up to power on the Monster fan at 160°, 170°, 180°, 195°, or 210° via an adjustment screw on the device that is calibrated with voltage running through the temp sensor wire. In the instructions he suggests that a 180° thermostat be used and the trip temperature level be set at or above that. So if you wanted to try a 160° thermostat, you could use the full range of trip temperature settings. I have several good thermostats and I think I have a 160° that I might try if the 180° doesn't make me happy. Like his regular brushed fan PWM, the sensor for the new device is surface mounted to the side of the radiator tank next to the lower outlet. The sensor wire has sensors at both ends so the user an select surface mount or inserting the wedge mount. I'm not exactly sure about the wedge mount procedure... I'll have to get the instructions out again. I'm not sure if its inserted into the finned area or in-between the hose and the bottom hose neck before clamping?
 
Thank you Willy & everyone else that have posted in this very helpful thread. Add me to list of guys with a big block 68 that now runs hot after recently adding Vintage air.

My set up is a L72 427 with a GM 7 blade 47772 clutch fan and I added a ebay 4 core aluminum radiator ( 4 Row Aluminum Radiator For 1967-69 Chevy Camaro Pontiac Firebird Big Block 23"W | eBay )at the time of installing my vintage air set up because my old brass radiator was seeping from the tanks. My car has never ran hot before adding the AC but had it out over the weekend and it was only about 92* out, but I was seeing temps of 215-220 in stop & go traffic with the air on. I have my fingers crossed that I just really don't have enough radiator after reading through this thread and just ordered a Cold Case CHC11 from Summit. I would really like to keep my Clutch fan, but I guess time will tell..
Thanks again guys,
Nick

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Here is a little update on this. My Cold case radiator was delivered today, very nice looking radiator by the way. I ran out and installed it with a about a 60/40 mix on the coolant. I also bought a bottle of Royal Purple Purple Ice Cooling System Optimizer but did not add it yet as I want to see if what the radiator swap does by itself. The radio says it is 102* out today and with the air on once I got stuck stop & go traffic again the temps went back up to 220 fairly quickly. I turned the AC off and it went back to around 203 in about a mile or so once I got rolling again. Clearly I have an air flow problem with my fan but still really want to try & add the factory AC seals between the radiator & core support as well as the seal between the hood & core support to see if they will help before changing anything else. I may see if I can and drive it again tomorrow as they are predicting 99 or 100 again and dump the Royal Purple snake oil in and see I can a fraction of the 25* drop in temps they claim is possible???
 
I don't personally think the Royal Purple Snake oil will do much for ya. But systematically making 1 change at a time and then testing again is the way to do it! The Seals may be helpful, so definitely do that! IMO
 
Snuck out and drove the car again today after adding the Royal Purple and I made a radiator seal to fill in the gap between the radiator and core support. It was still 99 or 100 today and the car stayed around 200 until I was stuck in the stop & go traffic again and then it ran about 210. I never had to turn off the AC today, so I guess that's a little improvement. lol.. I have ordered the seal for the top of the radiator support to the hood but it wont be here until next week. I am running a spare 69 Z/28 47772 clutch fan and with my crappy OER fan shroud that measures 7/16 shorter than my old broken original GM shroud, the fan just barely sits in on the top and the left side is out about 1/2- 3/4". It was one of those things I saw when I restored the car years ago that I was going to "get too" but then the car never ran hot so it was out of sight out of mind.

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I don't really want to go start cutting on my shroud just yet, so I ordered a 1" spacer to try as a "temporary fix" to get the fan sitting in the shroud correctly for a test run. If it makes a difference like I am hoping, I'll can remove it and then modify or try to build a new shroud.

Anyone have any thoughts on this nutty game plan?
 
Fan half in half out is the way they were….from my feeble memory.
I don’t subscribe to the water wetter/ royal purple
theory of btu exchange.
propylene glycol has a small advantage over ethylene glycol, but you can look to industrial applications for yourself to verify that.
otherwise….inefficiency equals a requirement for more capacity of a cooling system
 
Yes - I am betting the seals helped. Sounds Like you are on the right track!

PS - YA - what He said lol
 
You can barely see the fan OEM, half way in and stock shroud painted BC/CC and aluminum panel in front of the core support. Stock OEM radiator never goes over 180, last Sat it was 89, but has never over heated in 14 years. Has VA system, is a factory AC car. Good luck in cooling it down.

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You might consider a Hayden 2731 clutch. It's a HD clutch that was used on 1977-84 Cadillac's. It has the same specifications as the more common 2747 clutch but is almost a half inch longer.

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I have a fan, clutch and BBC shroud that I am no longer using. You prolly don't need the clutch or fan, but you can have the shroud. Send me a DM if you are interested. Be careful putting a spacer on it. It increases the chance of a bent water pump shaft. Ask me how I know.
Brett 🚀 🚀 🚀 🚀



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I have a fan, clutch and BBC shroud that I am no longer using. You prolly don't need the clutch or fan, but you can have the shroud. Send me a DM if you are interested. Be careful putting a spacer on it. It increases the chance of a bent water pump shaft. Ask me how I know.
Brett 🚀 🚀 🚀 🚀



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Wow, thank you so much sir, PM sent.
 
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