1967 Camaro Convert shut off instantly after plugging in cell phone at cig lighter ; no glass fuses blown no power to key switch

fairfax1000 · Nov 2, 2024

allanjs said:
Yes they do have a neutral safety switch depending on RPO code. Look at the wiring diagram(s).

I was referring to manual trans cars-missed the auto shifter on the console.

131573 · Nov 2, 2024

SoCal805 said:
My 67 auto, console shift, had it for the PG and my TH350 using the Shiftworks kit included one for the TH350 also. Car will only start in P or N. The mounting holes are "slotted" to you can clock it to match the shifter Detent plate.

View attachment 333092

NO Power is going to the switch at all ;but the fuse block is working ; the radio would still come on the N saftey switch wouldnt shut off all aux wipers radio i dont think .. but the neutral safty switch is on my oem column -- my issue is no power is going to the key switch at all nothing .. beyond just trying to start it please note ;

srode · Nov 2, 2024

Curious why you aren't following my suggestion to start at the fuse box with a test light or volt meter and start testing? I doubt there's anything wrong with the fuse box. It's probably a very simple fix, you don't need a new harness.

131573 · Nov 2, 2024

srode said:
Curious why you aren't following my suggestion to start at the fuse box with a test light or volt meter and start testing? I doubt there's anything wrong with the fuse box. It's probably a very simple fix, you don't need a new harness.

the fuse box is getting power ; after all night & day thinking about the solenoid now that i recall when the car instantly died the horn would only click a few times not blow at all ; when i got it back into the garage it started blowing again fooling around at the horn relay; A shop redid the steering wheel back in may and replaced the horn relay new .. it has an inline fuse that isnt blown .. but what feed off the horn relay if its bad anything else besides just the horn?

srode · Nov 2, 2024

Mickey Noyb said:
spent all day and night going wire by wire to the fuse box .. several fuses arent getting power at all and everything going to it that i can tell under the hood every part is hot with test light ;checked at starter etc dont se eany blown fuse link and each harness is wrapped in strong tape etc; im not an auto electrician are you ? turning wrenches vs electrical are different professions with folks that know diodes jumpers etc ...

I am very good at troubleshooting wiring problems on cars, I worked as a mechanic for a while yes. There are many people on this board that are very good at troubleshooting and can help you if you want help and are willing to follow simple steps. You are making this harder than it needs to be - there is a terminal on the fuse box that says BAT - check there and see if you have power first. Also please post a picture of this 'jumper wire' in the fuse box.

131573 · Nov 2, 2024

Mickey Noyb said:
sry but im frustrated spent all day and night going wire by wire to the fuse box .. several fuses arent getting power at all with the test light butv 2 btm ones are so power has to be going into the fuse block ; at the starter there is only 1 black thick cable going down to it coming off the above solenoid at the top of the car NO inline fuseable link goes to it. On the opposite side of the terminals at the starter is just a very small jumper maybe 2in max from 1 terminal to another thart isnt any fusable link at all.

131573 · Nov 2, 2024

srode said:
I am very good at troubleshooting wiring problems on cars, I worked as a mechanic for a while yes. There are many people on this board that are very good at troubleshooting and can help you if you want help and are willing to follow simple steps. You are making this harder than it needs to be - there is a terminal on the fuse box that says BAT - check there and see if you have power first. Also please post a picture of this 'jumper wire' in the fuse box.

im am reading every post reply . ... this is kicking my tail pipes; I tested every glass fuse with the beeeping ohms at the meter and all prongs at every socket on the fuse block under the dash only 2 the 2 btm ones which i cant read are showing power ; But if 1 is getting power the fuse block --- is getting power to it ... from under the hood to the fuse box so it is getting "some" power but only to certain areas such as the elctric top works dash lights hazards , brake lights front lights and backs and hazard flasers all work; what isnt hot is everything tied into the cig lighter & the ignition switch ,,, no light up at the plug using the test light as well. At the starter looking for a jumper there isnt 1 at all just the main thick black cable attached from above at the external 4 terminal solenoid.

bucko · Nov 2, 2024

Fusible link. From the relay (horn) to the fuse panel (under dash).

If there is no power at any of the fuses, such as the one marked BAT, its the fusible link.

SoCal805 · Nov 2, 2024

SoCal805 said:
if not, you could have killed a fusible link if wiring to cig lighter shorted.

bucko said:
Fusible link. From the relay (horn) to the fuse panel (under dash).

If there is no power at any of the fuses, such as the one marked BAT, its the fusible link.

Yeah I mentioned that also...but OP has not replied if he checked. Fuseable link is easily replaced

rs_man · Nov 2, 2024

The Assembly Instruction Manual (AIM) has a wiring diagram. The Service Manual also has one. Not the best wiring diagram but freely available. Here is a link where you can get some of the manuals.

http://www.camaros.org/forum/index.php?topic=9433.0

Note that some of the original electrical options have separate add-on wiring harness that plug into spare spade terminals in the fuse panel. One that is not familiar with 60's wiring might incorrectly identify these as "jumpers" when they are actually part of the original electrical system to connect some option. For example, the console clock option has a separate 3 wire harness that plugs in the BAT spare and LAMP spare spade terminals for power and lighting (third wire is for ground). Some pictures would help to identify this "jumper".

In the original harness, the main power for the cockpit comes in from the horn relay (through a fusible link) via a red wire through the firewall connector. This feeds a junction under the dash that splits into 3 other feeds; Fuse Panel, Ignition Switch and Headlight Switch. Note that in the original wiring all of these feeds are protected by the fusible link at the horn relay. It is important to identify modifications to the original wiring so as to not chase down paths that are no longer there etc.

Also, I suggest you look up under the dash and check to make sure there are no additional inline fuses added by a previous owner.

srode · Nov 2, 2024

There are 3 tabs in the middle of fuse box with the initials BAT, IGN, ACCY . There are no fuses associated with them, they are for spade connectors. BAT should be hot all the time. IGN should be hot with the key turned to the on position. ACCY should be hot when the key is turned to the ACCY position.

131573 · Nov 2, 2024

*** there is no inline fuse link on the starter at all.so thats rulled out as the starter takes all the power off the external solenoid which is after market not even oem for the car .like off a ford truck.. all the power the starter is gets comes off it ?? it does rotate the starter cranking when running a hot jumper lead to the side black wire that goes around the engine thru the firewall so that is prob the ignition wire? but maybe not the main lead ?

131573 · Nov 2, 2024

Badmotorfinger3 said:
I would continue to hone in on that Ford solenoid by the battery and the black wire you mention by the firewall. I think you have a short in that circuit and power is not getting to the ignition switch. If you don’t have headers, I’d remove the Ford solenoid and redo wiring from battery to starter and then test for power at ignition switch.

It appears you have a relay right by the battery (passenger side of the Ford starter relay) that should be mounted to radiator core support. I’d fix that too since it may need to be ground.

I’d definitely replace that negative battery cable, as mentioned, and run it to the engine block. Also clean up the wiring between battery and horn relay in general and remove that Vintage Air or whatever stuff.

I need a solenoid to start the car as all may camaros came with that always attached unlike Ford with this external solenoid; not sure that is the route to go jacking up with stands as that starter would have to come out or attach the proper solenoid to it to start the wiring... Thus what does this Ford external solenoid do beyond just rotate the engine supply power to the starter starter and ignition does it send power to the "ignition switch" itself or no if it does that would be easier to swap out and check but it does crank the engine when running a jumper or using a flat ose tapping the 2 terminals

131573 · Nov 3, 2024

srode said:
There are 3 tabs in the middle of fuse box with the initials BAT, IGN, ACCY . There are no fuses associated with them, they are for spade connectors. BAT should be hot all the time. IGN should be hot with the key turned to the on position. ACCY should be hot when the key is turned to the ACCY position.

67 OEM has 7 fuses ; i have to agree with others here no matter how frustrated i am the fuse box is fine. The 2 btm fuses are hot with test light constantly , all break lights instrument cluster lights up the shifter light bulb lights up hazards brake light headlights tail lights work ; the fuse box is getting power -- my cranium hurts havent slept cant think racing thoughts checkin everything BUT maybe that dang horn relay is bad either that or the external solenoid but yes ok the very fact i have lights and the top runnimg right off that terminal shows the batt is constant hot ; the issue isnt what the key position does in each position that is a google search the issue is finding the culpirt to which circut or relay i think thanks for the reply

131573 · Nov 3, 2024

srode said:
Curious why you aren't following my suggestion to start at the fuse box with a test light or volt meter and start testing? I doubt there's anything wrong with the fuse box. It's probably a very simple fix, you don't need a new harness.

you are right the fuse box is getting power ;i checked the 2 very btm fuses they are hot to the right of the 2nd up to the btm which is 1 of the fuses contant hot with test light shows the battery others were talking about ; sice the fuse is hot does that mean the batt is hot at that terminal that the 2 wires are afixed to the right of the fuse at the BATT?

131573 · Nov 3, 2024

bucko said:
Fusible link. From the relay (horn) to the fuse panel (under dash).

If there is no power at any of the fuses, such as the one marked BAT, its the fusible link.

yes there is constant power at BAT as the powered top is connected to it ; the fuse block has power ; yes seevral items do work just no power at key switch please see the other posts ; the BAT is always hot those 2 btm fuses are hot the rest only cut on at the key switch ; the top has a switch the lights etc they feed or branch off the horn thanks please see pic of fuse box posted thanks but this isnt the culprit ..

SOA-Nova · Nov 3, 2024

What kind of voltage are you getting on the fuses that show power (9V, 10V, 11V or what) ?.

Does this voltage on those fuses go away or drop real bad when the ignition is turned to the run position and other key positions. If it does drop, what does the voltage go down to ?.

What voltage are you getting at the ignition switch on the red 12 gauge wire ?.

What voltages are you getting out of the ignition switch in the different key positions (accessory, run, and then crank) ?.

If you took out the ignition switch and just replaced the tumbler portion using a paper clip, the tumblers are not part of the electrical system. The tumblers just rotate the other part of the switch that then makes or breaks connections.

If you take the wire connector off of the back of the ignition switch you can jumper the red wire to the pink and see if some systems come on and then you can then try connecting the red wire to the purple wire and this should activate the starter solenoid and then try jumping the red wire to the brown wire to get other systems to come on.

Jim

131573 · Nov 3, 2024

allanjs said:
I would go through every exposed connection removing the connected wire(s) one at a time and clean each terminal as you go. Not just look at it, but actually wire brush the ring or fork terminals and stud terminals. Then reassemble that area and continue on. Insure all crimped terminals are clean and tight. You can see there is corrosion under the negative strap on the battery terminal. On the left side there is a smaller red wire that also shows black. Is that a burnt wire or maybe just paint overspray. That same wire shows the terminal insulation connected at the solenoid is not totally covering the wire. If after all of that inspection and cleaning is done follow Jim's suggestion of starting at the battery and testing for voltage following each wire. It only takes time and little patience.

no that wire has some over spray not burnt --power is going all the way to the fuse box after checking inside just nothing to the switch this all branches off something its 2 plugs thru the firewall 1 side is appears to come of fthe horn relay the other off the external solenoid ; frustrating but that is at least checked off the list that wire connects at the radiator support and is hot ..

131573 · Nov 3, 2024

srode said:
I am very good at troubleshooting wiring problems on cars, I worked as a mechanic for a while yes. There are many people on this board that are very good at troubleshooting and can help you if you want help and are willing to follow simple steps. You are making this harder than it needs to be - there is a terminal on the fuse box that says BAT - check there and see if you have power first. Also please post a picture of this 'jumper wire' in the fuse box.
[/QUOTE thanks for the reply ; yes the terminal at the fuse box that reads batt which are the 2 btm fuses are constantly hot as the power top and other items all work ; tested it as you suggested to make sure the plug from the switch of that top going straight connected at the batt is hott , the fuse box is getting power; what all does the horn relay power as it has the harness has to branch off to differnet things maybe the horn relay is totally bad ; it was just clicking whewn the engine dies radio etc , than the horn blew strong again after pushing it into the garage .. was replaced back in may new but that could mean little if i somehow sent a surge at the cig lighter .. if the power coming out that horn relay has anything to do with supplying power branching out to the switches wipers key ignition switch etc . not sure ..

1967 Camaro Convert shut off instantly after plugging in cell phone at cig lighter ; no glass fuses blown no power to key switch

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fairfax1000

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srode

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srode

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bucko

SoCal805

rs_man

srode

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SOA-Nova

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