Guys I dropped my engine and tranny in last night. The only issue I had was that when I was checking the bell housing alignment with the dial indicator. The variation was one or two thousandths for 65 percent of the travel and then only on one section the variation jumped up between 15 to 27 thousandths. We decided to drop the motor in anyway because we had no access to offset dowel pins. This is a factory bell housing that I have used on my two previous motors with no problems at all, although I have never checked the bell housing alignment before. Will I be in trouble to drive the combo like this? What do you guys think ? The block is a new dart shop aftermarket block.
M21 Muncie bell housing alignment
m21man
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Guys I dropped my engine and tranny in last night. The only issue I had was that when I was checking the bell housing alignment with the dial indicator. The variation was one or two thousandths for 65 percent of the travel and then only on one section the variation jumped up between 15 to 27 thousandths. We decided to drop the motor in anyway because we had no access to offset dowel pins. This is a factory bell housing that I have used on my two previous motors with no problems at all, although I have never checked the bell housing alignment before. Will I be in trouble to drive the combo like this? What do you guys think ? The block is a new dart shop aftermarket block.
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102 Posts
How did you set up dial indicator, exactly?
I would have measured the hole diameter first in several places making sure it is round.
If 3/4 of the circumference is centered, I'd use it as is.
If 3/4 of the circumference is centered, I'd use it as is.
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2,843 Posts
I've done a bunch of these with original bellhousings (the 403 or 621's) and I've found they're usually within specs.
It's when I measure aftermarket bellhousings (Lakewood is the absolute worst) that I need off-set dowels.
It's when I measure aftermarket bellhousings (Lakewood is the absolute worst) that I need off-set dowels.
update to this thread.
i put 5,000 miles on the car with no issues at all.
the throwout bearing just started squaking like crazy. only with the clutch fully depressed. when i am at idle & at speed with clutch depressed. its like a high pitched whining sound.
i dropped the muncie and installed a new centerforce throwout bearing. it was ok with no sounds for 20 miles, and then started making the same loud noise even with the new throwout bearing.
the clutch adjustment hasn't been touched with the 3 different motors i have had in this car, so i doubt that is the issue.
any thoughts? must be the geometry? would i have to pull the motor and use offset dowel pins to properly setup the geometry? i doubt thats something i could do in the car? what do you guys think? i called centerforce, they seemed to think it was the geometry, he said he doesn't think its the pilot bushing because they usually only make noise upon engagement of the clutch. i also inspected the pilot bushing with a flashlight when we pulled the tranny, it looked like it was still round and not elongated.
i put 5,000 miles on the car with no issues at all.
the throwout bearing just started squaking like crazy. only with the clutch fully depressed. when i am at idle & at speed with clutch depressed. its like a high pitched whining sound.
i dropped the muncie and installed a new centerforce throwout bearing. it was ok with no sounds for 20 miles, and then started making the same loud noise even with the new throwout bearing.
the clutch adjustment hasn't been touched with the 3 different motors i have had in this car, so i doubt that is the issue.
any thoughts? must be the geometry? would i have to pull the motor and use offset dowel pins to properly setup the geometry? i doubt thats something i could do in the car? what do you guys think? i called centerforce, they seemed to think it was the geometry, he said he doesn't think its the pilot bushing because they usually only make noise upon engagement of the clutch. i also inspected the pilot bushing with a flashlight when we pulled the tranny, it looked like it was still round and not elongated.
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419 Posts
I would definetly replace the pilot bushing (refer to threads on oil impregnated brass bushings, with no iron content) when I dialed in the bell housing. Don't forget to check the pressure plates finger height (level with flywheel surface) and inspect the front trans bearing retainer for possible worn areas or scoring before reassembly. Are we sure we have no clutch adjustment / travel issues? JMO
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1,297 Posts
Did you check your existing pilot bushing with a magnet to see if it was contaminated before you installed it?
no i did not check the bushing with the magnet, i purchased the bushing from advance auto parts.
i will check the clutch adjustment travel issue this weekend. although i have not touched the adjustment in 5 years and it has been just fine...???
i will check the clutch adjustment travel issue this weekend. although i have not touched the adjustment in 5 years and it has been just fine...???
Are you certain you have the correct bellhousing? If I recall correctly the truck BH looks just like the car BH but has a larger big hole for the front bearing retainer on the trans. More than one person has used the truck BH with a car trans w/o realizing this and run into problems.
Guys I tried adjusting the clutch today with no difference in the sound. I'm willing to bet it's the pilot. Due to geometry issue. Is it possible to do the pilot with the engine in the car?
To realign the bell housing with the offset pins in the car, I'm guessing id have to pull the motor anyway?
To realign the bell housing with the offset pins in the car, I'm guessing id have to pull the motor anyway?
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1,094 Posts
I did mine in the car. I just happen to have a large tap and bolt that would fit the I.D of the pilot bushing. Tapped the bushing,then screwed the bolt in until it pushed out the bushing. At the time I was going to use the socket and grease method ,but didn't have a socket that would fit the I.D of the bushing. The tap and bolt worked great and wasn't messy at all like grease would have been.
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1,297 Posts
I do the bellhousing alignment mostly with the engine in the car. Remove the spark plugs to make it easier. Your hardest part of the job will be removing the stock dowels if needed.
Sure, just support the engine in the rear maybe the flat spot where the starter is mounted. I did my alignment check with the engine in the car, removed the starter and placed a jack stand under the block before removing the trans, remove bell and clutch, replace bell and set up dial indicator and start taking measurements.
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407 Posts
make sure the T O bearing is not touching the clutch when not depressed.was the bearing you changed out dry and burned on the face?
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