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Infinite...
If all the stuff I've ordered that got/is "Backordered" ever all comes in I'm go broke - or have to build a second/third vehicle ... :p
 
It's really a lot simpler than it looks! When I did mine I built a bracket and hid the relays behind the windshield washer tank, ran a fusible link and split it to the positives #30 on the relays and hooked the #87s into their respective lamp feeds after splitting the wire in the loom from the headlight switch and attaching the respective inputs from the switch to either #85 or #86 it doesn't matter which....as long as the other of #85 or #86 goes to ground.

No ugly fuses visible, fusible link hidden along buss bar and wrapped in electrical tape neatly with the other wires, and relays totally hidden behind the washer tank. Nice bright lights with X3 halogen..... cost me a total of $12 buying just the fusible link, wiring, and the 2 relays which were $2.50 apiece. Plus the halogen bulbs from which were I think both for around $50 thru Amazon.

I sure was tired of dim weak lights going on the road at night and having another 60s or early 70s set of wheels flash their ultra brights at me!
 
Guys, My question is does it make much difference in the brightness of the bulbs? Ive seen the ads, but I want to hear some real world experience. I am very close to doing this upgrade so I can see my way home from the track. LOL!

My bulbs are at least 28 years old so wondering if just putting in new bulbs is all I need.
 
Guys, My question is does it make much difference in the brightness of the bulbs? Ive seen the ads, but I want to hear some real world experience. I am very close to doing this upgrade so I can see my way home from the track. LOL!

My bulbs are at least 28 years old so wondering if just putting in new bulbs is all I need.
As I mentioned in my post above about getting tired of having dim lights while some other oldie cars having triple bright lights flash me at night, the difference in my brightness and intensity is HUGE. At least 3 times brighter. Think of it, halogen bulbs that are rated 3X (3 times) the original bulb....and you are getting 14.2 or more volts at the bulbs cuz of the relays rather than the old 11.5 or so volts when it's routed through the switch.

At night now my 67 machine is as bright as any new BMW with the latest gizmo lights they have.
 
Greg, you have to get a whole new light and not original T3 style although full battery power on them does help. An H4 sealed beam 7" would work I reckon. There are reports of some people heating up their old T3's so they can use the correct looking lens on an H4 as well. A little much I think.
 
Forgive me guys...I know nothing about bulbs as I have had the car 28 years and never replaced one.

so I'd need to do the relays AND change to a different type bulb to get the good brightness?

HwyStar- Are you saying use those bulbs with my "original" wiring (I do have a 12si alternator upgrade) and I will notice a difference? Or do those bulbs require the relays?

Thx guys!
 
Your new Sylvania Silver Star H6204 bulbs won't be bright enough without the relays passing on the good juice (14.2 V+) to them.

So, the formula is: 2 relays + 2 Sylvania Silver Star H6204 bulbs and off you go.

The alternator upgrade by itself still doesn't put out enough juice without the relays as the juice is still flowing through the headlight switch. The whole idea of the relays is to bypass the headlight switch and go from battery and running voltage of 14.2+ directly to the headlights.
 
I have @ 4~5 older vehicles (haven't done the 68 'Vert yet) that I've required with relays for several functions including headlights and the difference is amazing :yes:
My 77 Chevy 4X4 has halogens and the relay system - for both the road lights and the extra off-road lights - I actually did this mod back in the 80s when I raced in SoCal and Mexico. The difference is literally 'Night & Day' ;)
We even have this system on an old farm tractor converted to have a 6&12vdc system. The lights and one axillary elec/hydraulic lift are 12v and you can now actually see on dark nights vs. the old 6v lights, that worked fairly well on bright moon-lit nights ...

It's worth it :beers:
If this wasn't the best way to wire a system, the manufactures wouldn't be spending millions building their vehicles this way :thumbsup:
Can't think of single modern system that doesn't use relays to power most loads.
 
Greg, you have to get a whole new light and not original T3 style although full battery power on them does help. An H4 sealed beam 7" would work I reckon. There are reports of some people heating up their old T3's so they can use the correct looking lens on an H4 as well. A little much I think.
Yeah there are several articles on using the body of a T3. Here is a good one, and Super Chevy has one too. http://www.rodandcustommagazine.com.../techarticles/1006rc_t3_lenses_to_t4_halogen_reflectors_conversion/viewall.html
 
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