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muzzy

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hi, I’m looking for some advice on the 406 SBC I’m building, AFR 195 heads,4.155"bore,zero deck
I don’t intend drilling the steam holes.
I have Felpro 1004 (4.190" diameter) head gaskets’(No steam holes) I have read were these gaskets can cause brinneling of the alloy heads.
Has anyone used these gaskets? Or is there a better option for a gasket.
Also need a ball park length for the push rods,Howards retro roller cam & lifters and roller rockers.
(yet to buy roller rockers and push rod checker)

Any and all advice appreciated
Regards Murray
 
#2 ·
Steel shim gaskets are for cast iron components.
They will not work for alum head cast iron blocks because of the expansion properties of alum is more than cast iron.
Also, if using a ringed laminated gasket, ensure the ring is pre-flattened, manufactured this way, preventing alum from being brinnelled.
 
#3 ·
just built a 406 this summer...absolutely a blast to drive...

I went Dart iron eagle heads (had them already), 200cc intake runners, and 64 cc combustion chambers.

I did not deck the block, and did drill the steam holes

Used Speed Pro hyper pistons, came up to a static of 10.03:1

Comp cams retro roller cam--XR282HR--kit (springs, etc)...the pushrods that came with the kit were too short...

ended up using comp cams pushords--7609-16 (7.3inch)
Roller rockers Comp Cams: 17004-16
 
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#4 ·
I am in the process of building a 406 as well. I am also using the AFR195 heads.

You might go to the AFR website and read the directions to install that head. AFR suggests you drill steam holes. They also specify the Fel-Pro gasket to use with the heads and as a template to drill the holes.

If the manufacturer suggest you do it, it might be a good idea.

Good luck with your build
Mike
 
#5 ·
I used the 1014s on my 406 sbc build with Alum heads. Preflattened with steam holes. I did drill the steam holes in the heads as well.

The 406 was blast to drive. The guy I sold it to 2 years ago beats the crap out of it and it still runs great.

Ball park on the pushrods is useless. Measure 1st and buy exactly what you need:beers:
 
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#7 ·
I used 1014 gaskets, which are the same as the 1004 I believe the only difference is the 1014 have steam hole provisions, and are .002" thinner (the 1014 is thinner .039 vs .041). I used the 1014 because I wanted to be close to .040" quench, .002" is not much but I'm picky that way I guess...

They are said to brinell aluminum heads (leave indentations) because of the steel ring around the cylinder, but mine were on for 7 years and left hardly any mark and I like the seal they provide. Don't worry about the brinelling imo.

And even though I used the gaskets with steam hole provisions I did not drill the holes. In anything but a pretty much stock or very mild rebuild they are not needed. (This will now turn into a huge steam hole debate, my apologies in advance.... lol :D ). What is the intended use, and the rest of the build like?

Ball park for pushrods is going to be 7.80", but there are way too many variables to guess. It depends on cam base circle, valve length, and several other things, just assemble the motor and check, then buy a really good quality pushrod.

406's are awesome and a lot of fun with little effort, you will love it. As with a any build plan it out before you start and you will be happier in the end.
 
#8 ·
On my build I went with a Cometic mls gasket. .039 thick with a 4.165 bore. no steamers here with my Afr's an zero problems. IIRC the pushrods on mine were in the 8.1 range, small base cam.
 
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#9 ·
I run a 406 with AFR 195's, the older castings. Yes, I have steam holes as recommended by GM and AFR (and Brodix, and Edelbrock, and Dart, and etc).

I run the 1014 Fel-Pro.

The 406 with the AFR-195's,..agree, a blast to drive, especially with the Muncie and 3.73's behind it.
 
#10 ·
Not looking to get into the "steam hole" debate just saying nothing to loose by drilling them and most big name head companies say to do it.

Nothing to gain by not drilling either.
 
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#11 ·
That's true, most companies do say to drill them and it's to cover the installation of their heads on any motor combination for any circumstances. Same reason GM did it.

But if you talk to machinists that build lots of 400 based motors, not stock type stuff, they will tell you don't bother. That's been my experience with my own stuff and dozens of my buddies motors.
If the motor is performance oriented, decent gears and a stall, has a high flow pump etc. that most decent performance builds will have, you will never have to worry about steam pockets.

As I always tell people that ask, do whatever makes you feel better because it's your motor after all, and it totally depends on intended use.
But it is hard to not comment anytime someone talks steam holes like it's the gospel, and because "GM did it on stock motors, a performance motor really needs it". It's just not the case, they are a low flow, low rpm issue.

But as pointed out it can't hurt (except I have seen a few guys try to do it at home and miss the water jacket in their heads), but if it gives you security drill away, it's all good. :)
 
#12 ·
68rs406 said:
That's true, most companies do say to drill them and it's to cover the installation of their heads on any motor combination for any circumstances. Same reason GM did it.

But if you talk to machinists that build lots of 400 based motors, not stock type stuff, they will tell you don't bother. That's been my experience with my own stuff and dozens of my buddies motors.
If the motor is performance oriented, decent gears and a stall, has a high flow pump etc. that most decent performance builds will have, you will never have to worry about steam pockets.

As I always tell people that ask, do whatever makes you feel better because it's your motor after all, and it totally depends on intended use.
But it is hard to not comment anytime someone talks steam holes like it's the gospel, and because "GM did it on stock motors, a performance motor really needs it". It's just not the case, they are a low flow, low rpm issue.

But as pointed out it can't hurt (except I have seen a few guys try to do it at home and miss the water jacket in their heads), but if it gives you security drill away, it's all good. :)
Click to expand...
It's funny--when I built mine this summer, my machinist said exactly what you just did...sometimes he drills them, sometimes he does not, depends on customer preference, but that he did not see a need for it.

Of course, having OCD the way I do, I had him drill them! Cost an extra $30 at the machine shop, and gave me "peace of mind" for whatever reason. :D
 
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#14 ·
Vega$69 said:
$30? He should have done it for free. Takes like 5 minutes,

I always drill mine. It may not help but it doesn't hurt.
Click to expand...
He also wasn't getting any cost for assembly, and let me use his shop to put the motor together, while looking over my shoulder, as I had never built a motor before...I wasn't gonna balk at a few extra bucks to throw his way :noway:
 
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