I purchased this decal kit and I am looking to confirm if I am missing anything and if this kit is factory correct.
69 Z 28 Decal Kit
69z28freak
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I have seen many kits, most of them have the yellow stickers instead of the grey. Now I am confused which ones are correct.
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6,358 Posts
Me too as I have been told that Don Lightfoot is on the money when it comes to detail and correctness.
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6,358 Posts
That could happen since I plan to drive my car a lot. Should I be concerned?
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2,021 Posts
Maybe, I heard the decals can run.
I know Don personally, great guy and his decals are the best reproductions I have seen however, he does have a disclaimer on his website.
Quote" All the decals on these pages are sealed on the face with clear 3M vinyl (except Posi Decal, Jacking
Instructions & Emissions). They should hold up well under normal conditions. However,
if you drive the car in the rain or haul it on an open trailer in the rain then the decals on the undercarriage
will likely have the ink run. So keep this in mind when considering an order. They can be done
without the vinyl if you wish."
http://www.angelfire.com/rock/69ss/frame.html
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6,358 Posts
Great Info Joe, thanks for posting that. I guess I will find out soon enough. I assume that the other decals from HBC do not run? Sounds like the stuff Don sells is more for concourse cars that don't see much weather.
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1,750 Posts
The original Emissions Sticker is self adhesive vinyl or some thin plastic and the printing was done with a letter press.
I have yet to see a current reproduction including the ones referenced above which is COMPLETELY CORRECT in the FONTS or MATERIALS!
I have yet to see a current reproduction including the ones referenced above which is COMPLETELY CORRECT in the FONTS or MATERIALS!
James, How do you know that this sticker was printed with a letterpress?
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I studied packaging and printing and sold paperboard to printing concerns all over the world for about 20 years.
Flexo is what people call it today, I say letterpress because Flexography was not a very common term in use at the time.
BTW The "squish" is the tell... it is a rubber matrix plate.
Flexo is what people call it today, I say letterpress because Flexography was not a very common term in use at the time.
BTW The "squish" is the tell... it is a rubber matrix plate.
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6,358 Posts
So James do tell. Who do you think makes the best reproduction decals?
The reason I ask is that I have been a letterpress operator since 1975 and I couldn't tell by looking. I just doubted that letterpress was used in 1969 but flexo would be the likely process. I don't see any squish on mine but the red ink is not laid down the same as the black. I have an original sticker on my car and it was possibly run offset but certainly was not silk screened. These could be reproduced accurately with the letterpress process as long as you could identify the paper. If you can get the paper I will do the printing and die cutting. All we need is a good graphic artist and we are in business!
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It is white vinyl printed with perm inks, which is why they are resistant to water.
I have seen so many of them that after a few I could see where either the impression pressure was too high or too much ink and it oozed around the numbers. I've got a few around here somewhere and will try and get a photo.
BTW the original spring tags are printed the same way on a roll and then just ripped off as they were needed much like tickets are printed.
I sold thousands of tons of narrow roll stock to ticket and label printers and have seen so many printing operations I just assume everyone knows what I do.
I have seen so many of them that after a few I could see where either the impression pressure was too high or too much ink and it oozed around the numbers. I've got a few around here somewhere and will try and get a photo.
BTW the original spring tags are printed the same way on a roll and then just ripped off as they were needed much like tickets are printed.
I sold thousands of tons of narrow roll stock to ticket and label printers and have seen so many printing operations I just assume everyone knows what I do.
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1,750 Posts
My blue car doesn't have an emissions decal, tire pressure decal or any spring tags because they are not good enough.
If I had originals I would have them made.
If someone has CLEAN CRISP ORIGINALS and will scan them into a fairly large HI RES file, I will clean them up in photoshop so they can be ripped, plated and printed.
Short of that one of my customers (in a different state) has NICE originals and I will get them made from his.
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6,358 Posts
So you would not use any of the repop decals?
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1,750 Posts
The tire pressure and emissions are not correct anywhere.
Dons spring tags look good to me, and his jacking instructions are great.
However if the ink isn't permanent will they last?
Dons spring tags look good to me, and his jacking instructions are great.
However if the ink isn't permanent will they last?
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6,358 Posts
I am not 100% sure myself on the ink, but I have heard that Don's decals are the most correct available, however, I also heard that they are not the most durable and could run or deteriorate in weather. My car is going to be a driver, so I need to balance look with longevity. So perhaps I may use Don's decals where they won't get wet and look for more durable decals for the under body/Spring etc.
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As promised...
Look at the halo's around the letters.
![Image]()
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![Image]()
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![Image]()
Look at the halo's around the letters.
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12,374 Posts
I coated my emissions and air cleaner decals from Don with clear coat lamination then trimmed it and mounted it.
His web site link:
http://www.angelfire.com/rock/69ss/
His web site link:
http://www.angelfire.com/rock/69ss/
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1,750 Posts
When Don did the Emissions Decal he had someone typeset it at that time he stated he could not get some of the FONTS.
This is why I would prefer a LARGE (at least 1200DPI) scan and scale of a VERY crisp original and then I can photoshop it and do color separations, since there are no touching colors we don't have to worry with bleeds and precise registrations.
I have tried with some low res photos the main problem being perspective not directly above which makes the letters appear smaller the further away from the lens, a scan would be optimal.
This is why I would prefer a LARGE (at least 1200DPI) scan and scale of a VERY crisp original and then I can photoshop it and do color separations, since there are no touching colors we don't have to worry with bleeds and precise registrations.
I have tried with some low res photos the main problem being perspective not directly above which makes the letters appear smaller the further away from the lens, a scan would be optimal.
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6,358 Posts
Thanks Brian that is great info. I am not familiar with clear coat lamination. Can you elaborate and post a photo. That would be great. Thanks
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