Team Camaro Tech banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

Vega$69

· Moderator
Joined
·
18,696 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
I'm building a 69 Yenko Clone
I have a 2 bolt 781 head 454 that needs rebuild.

My other choices are, in order of cost as follows:

Rebuilt 454 4 bolt 781 heads

454 4 Bolt with Aluminum Heads

427 with Aluminun Heads (not period correct)

496 Stroker with Alum Heads

ZZ427 from GM Perfomance

ZZ502 from GM Performance

I'm leaning towards the 454 Aluminum heads all except the 502 would be badged as a 427

For best return on investment in your opinions would it worth the few extra thousand to go with one of the other options?
 
What are your plans/goals for the car, John? If you are trying to flip it when you get it finished, it's hard to say as it will depend on the tastes of the potential buyer. If you plan on keeping it and want to to look as stock as possible, I'd lean toward a Mark IV block and iron heads. If you are going to keep it and want more fun factor, the 496 wins. Even with 781 heads they can make good power.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
What are your plans/goals for the car, John? If you are trying to flip it when you get it finished, it's hard to say as it will depend on the tastes of the potential buyer. If you plan on keeping it and want to to look as stock as possible, I'd lean toward a Mark IV block and iron heads. If you are going to keep it and want more fun factor, the 496 wins. Even with 781 heads they can make good power.
I'm building it to sell when finished.
 
The 427 with aluminum heads gets my vote. Just something about telling guys (potential buyers also) its a 427. Just my .02. Good luck.
 
The problem with Rec. Port Alum. heads is driveability ...
You need low gearing and higher rev.s to keep it happy.
Choice of modern cam and other components can help, but I tend to 'underhead' many performance street engines to keep the owner happier with cruise conditions.

A two (2) bolt block will nominally support @600HP without issue, with the minor addition of quality hardware/studs vs. GM bolts - if you intend much more then opt for a aftermarket lower support system to optimize the block strength.

I would shy away from the 502 as a cruise engine - they tend to have some issues folks find hard to live with.

The badges on the fender can 'say' anything - 'Only your hairdresser will know for sure' ;)

As always - JMHO's
 
Personally I would try to find a period correct block and use some new oval port aluminum heads.

If you want to make it really look like a Yenko, go all out.
 
No Yenko had aluminum heads, so if you are really trying to build a clone, I'd stick with cast iron.

Maybe just me, but if I were buying a Yenko tribute, I'd want it to be close to the original, including period correct 427. If your 454 is a 512 block, I'd get a 427 crank for her, and build a 427.
 
Hey John,

Since you're building it for resale, why not build a ZL1 ? It would cost $5500 extra for the block and the overall cost would be lowered a little by not having the Yenko stuff on it.

I once saw an unpainted ZL1 block with aluminum heads and wow.....
 
No Yenko had aluminum heads, so if you are really trying to build a clone, I'd stick with cast iron.

Maybe just me, but if I were buying a Yenko tribute, I'd want it to be close to the original, including period correct 427. If your 454 is a 512 block, I'd get a 427 crank for her, and build a 427.
Good Point.
 
I realize the Yenko cars never had aluminum heads. But it would take some weight off the nose.

It is hard to build something that would appeal to everyone.

No Yenko had aluminum heads, so if you are really trying to build a clone, I'd stick with cast iron.

Maybe just me, but if I were buying a Yenko tribute, I'd want it to be close to the original, including period correct 427. If your 454 is a 512 block, I'd get a 427 crank for her, and build a 427.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
I realize the Yenko cars never had aluminum heads. But it would take some weight off the nose.

It is hard to build something that would appeal to everyone.
I think we will go with a 4 bolt main 427 with aluminum heads painted chevy orange.

Engine will run better and we can run higher compression and pull a little more timing without detonation issues.
 
I think we will go with a 4 bolt main 427 with aluminum heads painted chevy orange.

Engine will run better and we can run higher compression and pull a little more timing without detonation issues.
That's exactly what I did to my aluminum heads. They came out great.
 
Nice looking engine Donny :yes:

A modern combination of parts painted 'Old's-Cool' Chevy Halloween colors is always a :cool: way to go!

The newer Edelbrock Ovals will flow as well as GM Rectangles - and there's what come on GM BBC Crates in most cases ;)

If a customer is buying on 'Look' vs. provenance, as is the case with a "Tribute" vehicle, they are in most cases planning to enjoy via driving their purchase rather than store it in some museum setting - so the more you can do to build in an enjoyable driving situation with component selection and assembly procedures, the more they will be attracted to your product and happy with their purchase.
The same considerations are quite common in the rest of the drivetrain - a 4L80E vs. a TH400 or 6-speed vs. M21/22 has been the 'norm' for many-many years, along with gearing not suitable for OEM axle ratios in most cases ...
All of these done for the same reason, the vehicle becomes a pleasure to drive and a treasured possession vs. an 'asset' :thumbsup:

Looking forward to more info on your build John :yes:
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts