Alternator putting out too much power...

b17brian · Jun 9, 2014

That's it, but you can get a Duralast VR715 at AutoZone cheaper for $26.99.

NH69Z28RS · Jun 9, 2014

I've used the Duralast VR715 from AutoZone before, far as I can tell they are all the same and yes it is direct replacement plug & play for an external mechanical voltage regulator.

camarodude67 · Jun 9, 2014

Here is he article for a 1 wire, remove the external voltage regulator and jumper the connections.

http://www.camaros.net/techref/ftecref14.html

NH69Z28RS · Jun 9, 2014

camarodude67 said:
Here is he article for a 1 wire, remove the external voltage regulator and jumper the connections.

http://www.camaros.net/techref/ftecref14.html

A $26.99 solid state regulator is a lot less costly then an entirely new alternator so not sure why this would be the way you suggest he goes, especially seeing as the chrome alternator he has now is putting out plenty of power?

Either way will solve his overcharge problem though...

blue89bird · Jun 9, 2014

1 wire alternators have other issues that he may or may not want to deal with. Get a new solid state VR, put your old Delco cover on it and never worry about it again.

xfilterx · Jun 9, 2014

blue89bird said:
Get a new solid state VR, put your old Delco cover on it and never worry about it again.

That's what I'm thinking. Heading off to Autozone at lunch today to pick up that Duralast VR715. A member on here graciously offered up a spare battery that he had....so I'm gonna head over and pick that up tonight. :thumbsup:

Hopefully I got all the battery acid out...I'll get everything back together tomorrow night and report back the results. Thanks everyone.

larryh56 · Jun 9, 2014

Here's a good article on why you need to stay with a 3-wire alternator: http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/onewire-threewire.shtml

69-Pace · Jun 9, 2014

xfilterx said:
That's what I'm thinking. Heading off to Autozone at lunch today to pick up that Duralast VR715. A member on here graciously offered up a spare battery that he had....so I'm gonna head over and pick that up tonight. :thumbsup:

Hopefully I got all the battery acid out...I'll get everything back together tomorrow night and report back the results. Thanks everyone.

I think the trick is to use baking soda solution 50/50 and wash under - over and in-back of everything.

The Duralast solution is also popular if you have an AutoZone by you. As stated it will be plug and play just follow the simple direction which are - disconnect old unit harness, then remove old unit from the shroud. Install the new unit directly on shroud, NO rubber feet and make sure it has good ground through its mounts to the shroud BEFORE connecting the harness. Lots of guys fry them by connecting the harness then mounting the the unit on the radiator shroud.

xfilterx · Jun 9, 2014

69-Pace said:
I think the trick is to use baking soda solution 50/50 and wash under - over and in-back of everything.

The Duralast solution is also popular if you have an AutoZone by you. As stated it will be plug and play just follow the simple direction which are - disconnect old unit harness, then remove old unit from the shroud. Install the new unit directly on shroud, NO rubber feet and make sure it has good ground through its mounts to the shroud BEFORE connecting the harness. Lots of guys fry them by connecting the harness then mounting the the unit on the radiator shroud.

Thanks for the tip.
What do you mean by 50/50? Half baking soda to half water? That would be a lot of baking soda...

69-Pace · Jun 9, 2014

Yeah its more like a paste that gets put on and left a few minutes to deactivate any residual acid in cracks etc. You can make a looser mixture but then you have to keep recycling it over the area before you rinse with clear water.

Fred Ficarra · Jun 10, 2014

OK, I gotta say this. We here are too polite. But next time pay attention to your gauges! Next time (if there is one) you see a voltage reading like that stop the car and ENGINE ASAP and look under the hood. I'm still cringing.

NH69Z28RS · Jun 10, 2014

Fred Ficarra said:
OK, I gotta say this. We here are too polite. But next time pay attention to your gauges! Next time (if there is one) you see a voltage reading like that stop the car and ENGINE ASAP and look under the hood. I'm still cringing.

Thanks Fred for writing what I think many or even most of the rest of us were thinking

Jack92584 · Jun 10, 2014

Fred Ficarra said:
OK, I gotta say this. We here are too polite. But next time pay attention to your gauges! Next time (if there is one) you see a voltage reading like that stop the car and ENGINE ASAP and look under the hood. I'm still cringing.

All well and good but if you read the original post he WAS watching the guage and saw the voltage spike but wasnt aware that it would cause damage. Dont think its a question of being poiite its more one of being understanding as I doubt there is anyone here who hasnt learned a lession the hard way...Now he knows not to drive with a malfunctioning charging system and thanks to all the help he recieved here he will be back on the road soon..

Vintage 68 · Jun 10, 2014

Avoid '1-Wire' units like the plague

Read the "Mad" article link above to understand why ...

I rewired and corrected more issues from 1-wires than any slightly

er-looking unit could ever add to a vehicle.

As far as cleaning up the acid residue - and be aware than anywhere it has already 'dried' will re-activate as soon as more water is introduced

- the first attack if this happens on the road is to grab a 'Coke' and dump it ALL OVER the effected areas to immediately neutralize the acid - then 'Coke-Rinse-Repeat' as often as necessary until you don't see (or hear) any foaming in any area.
I've also grabbed soda-water or what ever other Carbonated beverage (no :beers: though) happened to be handy to neutralize these as soon as possible.

Carry on ...

teltec68 · Jun 10, 2014

This is a great site as my 68 RS just went through this problem last sat. stopped for gas and would not start after getting gas. The Chevron station I was getting gas @ had no jumpers to loan. I usually carry a set but I just put the car on the road and they were in my truck. I was asking some customers for help I guy in a Audi convertible had a little skinny set and just gave them to me as he was told not to put jumpers on his car, then a guy in a 95 Camaro pulls in gets gas and helps me with a jump. Got home O.K. came to this great site and found out what to do and what was happening. I phoned Lordco Car Parts and the guy said it was my battery even after I told him I was getting over 15V running. I ordered the Wells VR715 from Classic and am waiting delivery. Just like to say thanks for the help once again, cheers.

VetteFreak · Jun 10, 2014

Vintage 68 said:
Avoid '1-Wire' units like the plague

Read the "Mad" article link above to understand why ...

I rewired and corrected more issues from 1-wires than any slightly er-looking unit could ever add to a vehicle.

As far as cleaning up the acid residue - and be aware than anywhere it has already 'dried' will re-activate as soon as more water is introduced - the first attack if this happens on the road is to grab a 'Coke' and dump it ALL OVER the effected areas to immediately neutralize the acid - then 'Coke-Rinse-Repeat' as often as necessary until you don't see (or hear) any foaming in any area.
I've also grabbed soda-water or what ever other Carbonated beverage (no :beers: though) happened to be handy to neutralize these as soon as possible.

Carry on ...

Aren't we overstating things a bit...is the sky falling and are we all supposed to run out and change all newer cars with one wire systems back to a 3-wire? :noway:

NH69Z28RS · Jun 10, 2014

Jack92584 said:
All well and good but if you read the original post he WAS watching the guage and saw the voltage spike but wasnt aware that it would cause damage. Dont think its a question of being poiite its more one of being understanding as I doubt there is anyone here who hasnt learned a lession the hard way...Now he knows not to drive with a malfunctioning charging system and thanks to all the help he recieved here he will be back on the road soon..

Jack, I've followed this thread from the first post the original poster wrote. Yes he was watching the gauge, but he didn't react to the severe overcharge the gauge was indicating soon enough. If one isn't aware of what the results of ignoring a warning might be, they should never just keep on keeping on, it's just dangerous to themselves, the equipment and potentially others that may be with them or close by. The best gauges and monitoring equipment don't do any good if an operator of the related equipment doesn't use the information being indicated to their advantage.

I believe that was the reason for Fred's post and know it was for my followup to Fred's. When you see a gauge indicating other than what it should, pull over at the earliest safe opportunity you can and shut the equipment down before something bad happens. I'm just glad that battery didn't let go when he opened the hood as the acid burns he would have sustained would have brought this incident to the next level, that ain't pretty and it sure is uncomfortable if/when it happens. I don't think Fred was trying to be overly critical and I know that wasn't my intent. I don't believe to underlining the importance of dealing with little problems sooner rather than later to prevent big problems and bodily harm can be overstated.

BTW, I was one of the ones he received help from here in this thread, but again, the danger in handling the situation the way he did needed to be mentioned and I'll again thank Fred for doing so. Fred's reply may very well save others that read this thread from similar or even worse outcomes.

NH69Z28RS · Jun 10, 2014

VetteFreak said:
Aren't we overstating things a bit...is the sky falling and are we all supposed to run out and change all newer cars with one wire systems back to a 3-wire? :noway:

No, I believe the one wire alternator comments are meant to prevent others with the superior three wire alternators that were provided with these cars originally from being changed over to the one wire units if/when they have a problem. You can't beat the original 3 wire alternators when used with a solid state external regulator such as the VR715. See the previous link suggestion as to why if you haven't already. That's all, just trying to prevent others from making less than the best choices they can

Vintage 68 · Jun 10, 2014

^^^ what he said :thumbsup:

I have nothing against '1-wire's ... when they're on seldom driven show-rods that spend all their time on/in trailers and being pushed into show venues

The

look works great there ...

A reliable street driven vehicle (or even the marine applications I work on a lot) require a well engineered and robust system design that can react to load variations and deliver a full charge to the system under nearly all conditions.

VetteFreak · Jun 10, 2014

NH69Z28RS said:
No, I believe the one wire alternator comments are meant to prevent others with the superior three wire alternators that were provided with these cars originally from being changed over to the one wire units if/when they have a problem. You can't beat the original 3 wire alternators when used with a solid state external regulator such as the VR715. See the previous link suggestion as to why if you haven't already. That's all, just trying to prevent others from making less than the best choices they can

Guess I may be misconstruing the comments with regard to 1 wire vs. 3 wire. I use the 3 wire internally regulated 12SI alternator which has no need for an external regulator, but, can be wired to the idiot light. So, I don't use some of the wires in the harness, but, still have the idiot light. Am I confusing anyone else! :clonk:

Alternator putting out too much power...

b17brian

NH69Z28RS

camarodude67

NH69Z28RS

blue89bird

xfilterx

larryh56

69-Pace

xfilterx

69-Pace

Fred Ficarra

NH69Z28RS

Jack92584

Vintage 68

teltec68

VetteFreak

NH69Z28RS

NH69Z28RS

Vintage 68

VetteFreak

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