Anybody ever hear about this Engine Break-In method?
JIM68
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Hi Jim,
Are you getting ready to fire off your new 327 soon?
Mark P.
Are you getting ready to fire off your new 327 soon?
Mark P.
Actually, I broke in my last motorcycle that way, exactly that way, that website became a big topic of discussion in the group I ride with and some local shops (not the street thug, wheelie riding group with the nazi helmet, but the draggin' a knee at 120 mph around a corner on a track guys)
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it feels good believe me....., it's an Aprilia Mille R Superbike, for the un-initiated that is an Italian 1000cc V-twin that turns 11000 rpm, puts out 142 hp and weighs in my configuration 397 pounds. My bike was put on a eddy current dyno and pulled 6 more hp than 3 duplicate bikes, and I used less oil per 1000 miles than Aprilias usually do. That part may just be coincidence, but for motorcycles I think this technique is a valid point. For v-8 engines I dont know. Although I was taking a chance on my $19,000 dollar bike, i had talked to many engine guys and they said it wouldnt hurt it, plus I was under warranty and they wouldnt know how i broke it in. All the black parts are carbon fiber, wheels are OZ forged aluminum, suspension by OHLINS (high end pro stuff) slipper clutch, Titanium exhaust, and a whole bunch of torque.....and speed...
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Speedo memory
oh yeah....I am the guy that broke both his arms last December and have had a plate put in my left arm....but hey, some things just have to be done....
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[ 06-06-2003, 09:52 AM: Message edited by: sherr20 ]
Speedo memory
oh yeah....I am the guy that broke both his arms last December and have had a plate put in my left arm....but hey, some things just have to be done....
[ 06-06-2003, 09:52 AM: Message edited by: sherr20 ]
I did a similar method of breaking in my 383. The builders instructions said to do a series of 10 or so strong acceleration "bursts" each time allowing the engine to slow the car down. They also said not to lug or baby the engine. The purpose of the above procedure is to build up pressure and set the rings.
David
David
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This is very interesting
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David did you do your cam break-in the usual way first?? or did you lash it then went out burning rubber right away
David did you do your cam break-in the usual way first?? or did you lash it then went out burning rubber right away
I've broken in every engine I've ever built that way. Flat tappit cams I do the 20-30 min. break in. Then I change the oil and go drive it like it was built to be driven. I have never had any problems at all. I could very well be wrong and just lucky, but I don't believe in babying any engine for 100, 200 or 500 miles.
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When I get the time and money to rebuild mine(sure needs it), I´ll probably try it this way.
Thanks Bob
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Thanks Bob
FWIW, back in the day, they used to say break it in like you were going to run it!!!
Hard and fast like we do or slow and easy like like Opie's Aunt Bee!!
And I have to tend to agree and I have read a post somewhere that said to use a Scotch-brite pad on your freshly honed cylinders to make them "polish" or run in sooner/better!!! B/c doing so makes for less running engine friction losses... pdq67
Hard and fast like we do or slow and easy like like Opie's Aunt Bee!!
And I have to tend to agree and I have read a post somewhere that said to use a Scotch-brite pad on your freshly honed cylinders to make them "polish" or run in sooner/better!!! B/c doing so makes for less running engine friction losses... pdq67
The one machine shop around here does it that way. Fire it up, break in the cam, and then it makes 3-4 pulls on the dyno. I asked him when I picked up my engine if I need to break it in, and his reply was "I put more of a load on that engine than you ever will. It'll stay together." Well, it did for at least the 40,000 miles I put on it + who knows how many more after I sold the car.
I'm a little skeptical. If cylinder pressure is what helps the rings seat then why the need to run them at high RPM? Cylinder pressure is ACTUALLY higher at low/mid RPM range when the engine is near peak TQ.
There are other factors to consider besides ring seal when breaking in an engine. What about cam break in? 20 minutes at 2000-3000 RPM is pretty much the industry standard. And what about small contaminates that work their way into the oil filter during those critical first few hundred miles --- this yahoo would rather have you just beat on the engine . . . oh well, to each his own.
ps. Where's BillK? I'd be interested in what he has to say on the subject.
There are other factors to consider besides ring seal when breaking in an engine. What about cam break in? 20 minutes at 2000-3000 RPM is pretty much the industry standard. And what about small contaminates that work their way into the oil filter during those critical first few hundred miles --- this yahoo would rather have you just beat on the engine . . . oh well, to each his own.
ps. Where's BillK? I'd be interested in what he has to say on the subject.
I understand what you say about cam break in Eric68, but his website is geared towards motorcycles, while many aspects cross to all engines, he is a motorcycle tuner and is writing his piece slanted towards motorcycles. I am sure cylinder and ring wise it is applicable, but in the cam departmentit is different, also most motorcycle engines run roller bearings and not plain bearings. I personally trust this method, additionally I changed my oil again at the 600 mile point and did not have alot of junk in the filter.
But again this is a subject that really goes back to how you were taught to believe an engine should first be treated, and again, everyone has their own opinion.
I personally feel outside of the cam break-in, that if an engine is going to break, it will break no matter how you run it in, now it is just a matter of how well all the pieces are fitted to each other.A bad rod is bad at 1 mile and 1000 miles.
If you really look into manufacturers break in requirements they are very close in most cases and are just a way of covering themselves,(again in My opinion) it gives them a way to come back and say, "did you follow the break in?" when if you are stupid enough to say no, they say "well then, it isnt covered under warranty" Again this is a motorcycle example, but I have a Yamaha FX140 waverunner that has the same exact engine minus the tranny as a Yamaha R1 superbike, the streetbike break in period is 1000 miles of less than 6000 rpm, then you can go to 12,000. My waverunner said 1 hour of break in under 6000 then you can go to 12,000. It begs to ask why such a difference, all bearings rods, etc are the same. Ok, ive blabbed enough, i'll admit 85% of my engine experience is high revving multi-valve stuff, (not import racer stuff)but to me a gas engine is a gas engine...
But again this is a subject that really goes back to how you were taught to believe an engine should first be treated, and again, everyone has their own opinion.
I personally feel outside of the cam break-in, that if an engine is going to break, it will break no matter how you run it in, now it is just a matter of how well all the pieces are fitted to each other.A bad rod is bad at 1 mile and 1000 miles.
If you really look into manufacturers break in requirements they are very close in most cases and are just a way of covering themselves,(again in My opinion) it gives them a way to come back and say, "did you follow the break in?" when if you are stupid enough to say no, they say "well then, it isnt covered under warranty" Again this is a motorcycle example, but I have a Yamaha FX140 waverunner that has the same exact engine minus the tranny as a Yamaha R1 superbike, the streetbike break in period is 1000 miles of less than 6000 rpm, then you can go to 12,000. My waverunner said 1 hour of break in under 6000 then you can go to 12,000. It begs to ask why such a difference, all bearings rods, etc are the same. Ok, ive blabbed enough, i'll admit 85% of my engine experience is high revving multi-valve stuff, (not import racer stuff)but to me a gas engine is a gas engine...
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