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1968camaro123

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I switched to an electronic ignition and put a comp cams XE 268 into a 350 with a performer RPM intake. It won't idle and the carb keeps popping! It'll run for about 15 seconds tops and then just die. It'll run fine and then start popping and after about 10 seconds of popping it just dies. I tried setting the distributor in a bunch of different tooth positions and then moved it around advanced and retard.
PLEASE HELP!!
Thanks for any suggestions,
Donnie
 
Discussion starter · #2 ·
Someone please, I'm stuck here.
Thanks
 
Donnie,

A couple things to check.

First, It sounds like your timing is close, but off enough to keep it from running. To get it closer, this is what I would do:

1. disconnect the power wire to your distributor and pull plug number one.

2. put your thumb over the hole and have a friend bump the engine a little at a time until air blows past your thumb.

3. Use a wratchet and socket on the vibration dampener bolt to turn the motor clockwise until the mark on the vibration dampener lines up with the 0 mark on the timing tab.

4. Pull your distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing. It should be pointing at the number 1 wire. Move the distributor until the two line up.

(You can pick up the distributor and drop it back in wherever you need it to go - if it doesn't want to go down all the way, a long flat tip screwdriver can be used to rotate the oil pump drive shaft until the slot is in the right spot to engage the distributor, then it will drop the rest of the way down).

5. Put the cap back on and then move the distributor about 1/2" Counterclockwise and tighten it up. (I find this step helpful because you're advancing the timing to just about the right spot)

6. Put it back together and it should fire right up. then you can set your timing with a timing light.

Second, I'd make sure that your rocker arms aren't too tight. Better off firing her up with them too loose than too tight. You should be able to wiggle them a little side to side when the valve isn't being opened.

Sorry to be so long winded, I didn't want to leave anything out.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
No, I'm glad that you were long winded. I'm gonna go out and try that.
Thanks alot,
Donnie
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Eric,
I went out and tried that and the same thing keeps happening it just pops out of the carb and then dies. It actually ran for about 30 or 35 seconds one time but then it just died and it wouldn't run for longer than 5 or 10 seconds after that! I'm really bummed out but please if you think of anything else let me know.
Thanks again,
Donnie
 
Donnie, other things to look at are fuel flow ( fuel pump, filter, carb ) , vacuum leaks ( especially since intake was changed ) and valve train ... what else did you swap in additional to cam ( valve springs ??? ) You might want to recheck your valve adjuments ... Also, did you remove ballast resistor from ignition circuit after switching to electronic ... If not, I owuld fo this first ...
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
stdstd: I don't think that I removed the ballast resistor, what is it and where is it? Also, I've already checked the valve lash and it's okay and I just installed an HEI distributor out of a 78 camaro with no box or anything. And I'm pretty sure that there are no vacuum leaks. I have a question though, I did a search on topics similar to this and a guy said that he had a similar problem where he didn't install a little metal piece that goes on the intake manifold somehow, I don't think that I installed this piece if it's a little, thin metal piece that has two square holes in it because I didn't know where it went and one didn't come off of the original intake so I didn't think that I needed one.
Thank, I think that I might be on to something.
Donnie
 
Take a good look at your valve springs...if you are using stockers you could have easily broke one or more. I've done it with considerably smaller cams than the xe268 and stock springs. Also, try plugging all of they vaccuum ports on the carb (they are all connected, arent they?)...this takes any indirectly related vac leaks out of the picture. I also agree that it sounds like the timing is quite a ways off or the valves are set too tight, but a nasty vac leak will cause the same symptoms. Are you absolutely sure the plug wires are installed correctly?
Oh, and the ballast thing is very valid also...points ignitions use less voltage than an HEI...sometimes they will run with the reduced voltage, but very poorly.
------------------
375hp 78 Chevy truck
77 Chevy Nova
95 Chevy Lumina 3.4L
and building a 78 Nova

[This message has been edited by travis (edited 08-06-2001).]
 
Guys, the nickname is sdtsdt .... not stdstd ... it should be obvious why I point out the difference ...lol...
Anyway, 1968, guys have already answered resistor identification question... it comes to mind that the ittle square thing you mention may be a plate to block off EGR passage for those applications that don't use EGR ...
 
WOW, you got a lot of answers quick. I didn't see anyone mention running a "hot wire" straight from the battery + terminal to your HEI + terminal to test. That's a quick way to eliminate the possibility of that resistor wire causing the trouble.

You can make sure you have good spark by:

1. pull the # 1 plug,

2. put the wire back on trhe plug.

3. hold the side of the plug against the engine block.

4. Crank the motor a couple times and watch for a spark. You might want to wear a glove so you don't get a little jolt.

If you set your timing like I described above and you have a good spark, then your ignition is probably not the problem.

You can check for valve spring bind with a gap gauge. If you have at least .050" between the coils with the valve fully opened you should be OK. If the valves are operating smoothly when the engine is cranking, then that leaves a fuel/air problem. I wouldn't hurt to pull a couple rocker arms off, look at the rockers and the pushrods for any damage though - just to make sure.

If it's a fuel problem you can cap off all the vacuum lines like the others mentioned above and pour a little gas from a can straight down the carb to get it started.

Sometimes if a fuel pump is bad or if a filter is clogged you can actually keep the engine running by spraying a little carb cleaner into the carb when it starts to die.

Good luck.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Thanks alot guys!
Jeffersonmo: I'm gonna go out and try to remove that ballast resistor thing because I know that I haven't done that already.Thanks.

Travis: I just went out again and looked at my valve springs and they're all fine and the valve lash is set perfect. So, I'm gonna go out and plug all of the vacuum ports but I'm positive that all of them are either hooked up or plugged. Thanks for the suggestions.

SDTSDT: LOL, sorry about that man. But anyways, Do you know if that little metal piece with the 2 square holes in it is something that I need to install? If yes, Do you know where? Thanks alot.

Eric68: I just went out and checked that too just incase(the spark) but I just bought all new plugs and sure enought they all were sparkin' like crazy. I'm sure that I put all of the plug wires on and I guess it could be the fuel pump but would that explain all of the popping out of the carb? Oh, it's a brand new fuel filter with brand new gas so I don't think that it's clogged but when I was out there I took it off and blew throught it a few times. And before I forget thanks for all your help and I'm definetly going to try running a hot wire directly to the distributor from the battery. Thank you.

Thank you everyone for all of your help and your very quick responses.
Thanks again!
Donnie
 
check the 5 and 7 plug wires.
make sure they are not reversed.
(I've done this)
 
I agree with what everyone has said and I had a similar problem when I put an HEI in my 68 chevy pickup. It turned out to be my spark plugs. I will never use champion spark plugs again. I don't know what it was but every plug, either the porcelin was broke loose or it would simply not spark. My truck did the same exact thing as what you explained so take a look at your plugs, becaause it might be your problem.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
THANK YOU ALL SO MUCH!
I was outside trying to figure out what it was and I just decided to take off the fuel pump and make sure that it was working and that the tank-to-pump line wasn't clogged. Guess what?.....It was, I stuck an air hose blower thingy on it and blew some air through it and for a couple of seconds it was plugged and then my friend got hit in the face with a shot of gas and he said that a little piece of something hit him but we couldn't find it. So, I put the pump back on and disconected the line to the carb and just put it in a jug and sure enough fuel was sprayin out. I hooked it back up and she fired right up and stayed running this time!!!!! My only problem now is that it still keeps popping a little bit out of the carb but oh well at least it runs.
Thanks again,
Donnie
 
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