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Bleeding Brakes- PROBLEM

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68RSRACER

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey guys I replaced my master cylinder with a new CPP MPV1 master cylinder and also the brake lines. Problem is I cant get brake lines to bleed.
I have bench bled the master cylinder three times now just because I was in doubt with having the issue of not being able to bleed line. I have started with the rear passenger side with the old school style of 2 people one on the brake pedal and the other on the bleeder valve. Very little fluid came out then I researched the net and people said use the harbor freight tool that hooks up to the air compressor still very little fluid, then I tried the speed bleeder valves thinking my troubles were over still no luck. Then I disconnected the main rear brake line where it joins into a tee splitting left and right wheels. What I did was put a clear hose over the line making sure it was air tight and putting one of the speed bleeders on the end. Result from that was fluid coming through the line but when brake pedal was released fluid would just want to go back the other way so then I took the speed bleeder valve off and used my thumb over the end of the clear hose and got the same result. I know this is long winded but im stumped!
I have done my own brakes for years no problem but this is the first time changing out lines and master cylinder. HELP!:(
 
#4 ·
Pressure bleeding is the best method - pump up to 30 lbs and bleed the longest line first.
Usually, two people can fully bleed. The pumper has to wait between strokes for the MC cylinder to fill before the next push.
Pump hard until pedal is solid and hold, bleed, close valve, release pedal.
Count to 10, repeat. After the third bleed, check reservoir level.
Patience is the key.
 
#5 ·
Everett#2390 said:
Pressure bleeding is the best method - pump up to 30 lbs and bleed the longest line first.
Usually, two people can fully bleed. The pumper has to wait between strokes for the MC cylinder to fill before the next push.
Pump hard until pedal is solid and hold, bleed, close valve, release pedal.
Count to 10, repeat. After the third bleed, check reservoir level.
Patience is the key.
Click to expand...
And if you can't get at least half a solid pedal doing as Everett suggests, you may very well have a bad master cylinder. Also if the fluid level in the master reservoir is staying at the same level as you started with I'd question if the master is bad. I worked on a Honda Civic within the last two weeks that did the same thing you are describing, replaced the master with a new one and then it bled out fine.
 
#6 ·
Nick, Is the CPP MPV1 master cylinder the chrome one with the built in proportional valve? Have you read the instructions and adjusted the settings with the allen wrench. You have to make sure M.C. is adjusted correctly to get fluid pumped to the rear. Also you probably will need the syringe to bleed the master cylinder. Look down into the bowl in front of the divider plate. You will see 2 holes. I think this articles shows bleeding the M.C. with the syringe. http://www.classicperform.com/Instructions/PDF/CP0105.pdf Here is the M.C. adjustment procedure.http://www.classicperform.com/Instructions/PDF/MCPV1.pdf
 
#7 ·
68RSRACER said:
Hey guys I replaced my master cylinder with a new CPP MPV1 master cylinder and also the brake lines. Problem is I cant get brake lines to bleed.
I have bench bled the master cylinder three times now just because I was in doubt with having the issue of not being able to bleed line. I have started with the rear passenger side with the old school style of 2 people one on the brake pedal and the other on the bleeder valve. Very little fluid came out then I researched the net and people said use the harbor freight tool that hooks up to the air compressor still very little fluid, then I tried the speed bleeder valves thinking my troubles were over still no luck. Then I disconnected the main rear brake line where it joins into a tee splitting left and right wheels. What I did was put a clear hose over the line making sure it was air tight and putting one of the speed bleeders on the end. Result from that was fluid coming through the line but when brake pedal was released fluid would just want to go back the other way so then I took the speed bleeder valve off and used my thumb over the end of the clear hose and got the same result. I know this is long winded but im stumped!
I have done my own brakes for years no problem but this is the first time changing out lines and master cylinder. HELP!:(
Click to expand...
Nick...if you still haven't found a solution and you're certain the MC is bench bled, try this. Get 2 glass quart size jars and 5 ft of flexible clear rubber tubing (cut tube in half) with an inside diameter that will push onto the factory bleeders and remain there without falling off. Fill each jar 1/3 full of brake fluid so the tubes will remain submersed during the bleeding process. I did the fronts first with the car on jack stands and the wheels removed. Crack the front bleeders only, place the jars beneath each caliper with one end of the tubing extending to the bottom of the fluid in the jar and the other end pushed over the bleeder. Make sure the MC is full and start pumping with slow but deliberate pushes of the brake peddle. Stand with left foot on floor and the right foot on the brake peddle so you can watch the fluid flow through the tubes. DO NOT allow the fluid in the MC reservoir to reach the bottom. After 5 pumps fill the reservoir again. Keep doing this until there are no more air bubbles in the hose. At this point, the fronts should be done. It make take some time, but, eventually it will fill. Close the bleeders with the tubes attached if possible...you don't want air to re-enter the system, then, check for proper front brake operation. Move to the rear and do the same thing. It worked for me!
 
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#8 ·
Nick, I read that you changed lines also. Does this mean all the lines? If you had the two pc. line set (front to back) did you remove the check valve on the frame by the drivers door? The old proportional valve was removed also? How do you have the lines installed on the new master cylinder? Front two lines to the 2 fittings on the bottom of the front bowl. The rear line on the bottom of the rear bowl.
 
#9 ·
VetteFreak said:
Nick...if you still haven't found a solution and you're certain the MC is bench bled, try this. Get 2 glass quart size jars and 5 ft of flexible clear rubber tubing (cut tube in half) with an inside diameter that will push onto the factory bleeders and remain there without falling off. Fill each jar 1/3 full of brake fluid so the tubes will remain submersed during the bleeding process. I did the fronts first with the car on jack stands and the wheels removed. Crack the front bleeders only, place the jars beneath each caliper with one end of the tubing extending to the bottom of the fluid in the jar and the other end pushed over the bleeder. Make sure the MC is full and start pumping with slow but deliberate pushes of the brake peddle. Stand with left foot on floor and the right foot on the brake peddle so you can watch the fluid flow through the tubes. DO NOT allow the fluid in the MC reservoir to reach the bottom. After 5 pumps fill the reservoir again. Keep doing this until there are no more air bubbles in the hose. At this point, the fronts should be done. It make take some time, but, eventually it will fill. Close the bleeders with the tubes attached if possible...you don't want air to re-enter the system, then, check for proper front brake operation. Move to the rear and do the same thing. It worked for me!
Click to expand...
I've used Karl's method before with good results as well and when I had the bad master cylinder, there would be no air bubbles or brake fluid entering the jars when the pedal was pushed to the floor and no brake fluid pulled back up the tubes from the jar when the pedal was released either. That pretty much confirmed in my situation that the master cylinder wasn't performing it's intended task.
 
#11 ·
I was having problems and went with a Motive Products Power Bleeder http://www.motiveproducts.com/ . Entire new 4 wheel system from Right Stuff was bled and functional within 15 minutes. I have also used it on my other cars to replace old fluid. I thought it was well worth the money. Just make sure you get the proper fitting for your master cylinder.
 
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#12 ·
dsego said:
I was having problems and went with a Motive Products Power Bleeder http://www.motiveproducts.com/ . Entire new 4 wheel system from Right Stuff was bled and functional within 15 minutes. I have also used it on my other cars to replace old fluid. I thought it was well worth the money. Just make sure you get the proper fitting for your master cylinder.
Click to expand...
X2 Excellent tool
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Thanks for all the input guys. I'm going to try it again today and see what happens. So far I see no leaks and yes my master cylinder has the built in prop valve. I have made sure settings are right but have not retested yet. will update soon using all of your ideas, thanks again guys this website is the best makes me feel like I have all the help I can get in my corner:yes:
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
EPT you win that bet, I just now discovered that the push rod even though it's adjustable is to long. I'm now trying to figure if it's better to purchase a stock push rod or try to add some threads onto what I have. Problem is it appears to be metric and I have a standard tap and die.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
I made my own pressure bleeder and it worked great! all the lines bled out great, now I have come across the issue as ept pointed out my adjustable push rod is to long. So now I need to fabricate the push rod. I think by adding more threads to the push rod so I can turn it in further so the plunger fully returns. I paid like 200$ for this nice looking master cyl from CPP you would think that it would have the right size push rod. THANKS CPP
 
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