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Discussion starter · #201 ·
So nice to have the bead blaster up again...









Current state of the home shop. Never mind the 31 Ford, I have promised myself that will not be touched until the Camaro and Scout are back on the road.

 
Discussion starter · #202 ·
The original front seats that I made my best attempt at reupholstering 20 years ago in High School.
I've known I needed to do them correctly so they have been getting dusty during Nicole's refresh.




As I pull each one of these thousands of hog rings off...
I can remember the hours I spent as a clamping each one on.




Broken spring in the common area...




And three broken springs in the less common area...





 
Discussion starter · #203 · (Edited)
Looks like I may need to replace more than just the bottom/side spring. That is the only replacement spring I have found for sale besides complete spring spring assemblies for the back and bottom. Does anyone know if the replacement spring assemblies for the bottom and back feel the same as the originals? Is there a difference between the one offered from Rick's and from Heartbeat?
 
Discussion starter · #204 ·
Of course the drivers seat is much worse...
It looks like I will have to order replacement spring assemblies for the backs and bottoms. Heartbeat city and Ricks both stock them but they appear different in each others pictures. Heartbeat's say they are made in the USA and that is a big plus for me. Ricks website does not say they are made here but when I called them they said that they were.

Drivers seat has five broken back springs and three or four broken bottom springs and the main perimeter spring wire as well.








On a lighter note... I made a cool discovery. Probably the coolest archeological find I have made on this car.

When I first got my Camaro, I must have looked liked Indiana Jones going through my 67 for a build sheet, trim tag or anything.
Never found anything except a few coins until I pulled my seats apart further than I ever have before.
Found a Fisher job tag in the drivers seat.
I know its not a build sheet...but its the coolest I have found.





 
Keep up the great work Kevan. The car can wait as long as the family is happy first. Again keep up the good work and updates coming in. I'm at a road block with mine it seems. But little by little it will be done soon enough. :beers::yes:
 
Discussion starter · #206 ·
Keep up the great work Kevan. The car can wait as long as the family is happy first. Again keep up the good work and updates coming in. I'm at a road block with mine it seems. But little by little it will be done soon enough. :beers::yes:

Thank you Jonathon, thats a good attitude. Im sure your road block won't last long. You've made great progress and your build is one I have enjoyed watching from the beginning. :popcorn:
 
Discussion starter · #207 ·
I haven't posted, but I have been working on the Camaro...

I stripped the bases down and here they are after the powder coaters:



I installed new spring assemblies. They went in fine for the most part. The new springs are a thicker diameter than the old springs so there are a couple retainers that they like to pop out of and not stay in place. I ended up tack welding a couple spring ends in place.






Well, they ain't perfect, but neither am I. But thanks to this website and youtube, I did them a heck of a lot better than I did back in high school.



 
Discussion starter · #208 ·
Anyone who read this thing from the beginning would've seen the Scout that I brought home for my wife. Well at least that thing is done for the most part. Took it on a couple test drives and only a couple bugs to work out.



Hopefully both of us will be cruising together soon.
 
Discussion starter · #209 ·
Looking around at places for the Ignition module. If not here than maybe on the drivers side of radiator support.




Coil mounted inside.




Decided to pull the electric fuel pump out. Ive always been a fan of mech pump on a car that gets street use. Just because of failures Ive seen. I know this isn't always the case but just how I feel.
Obviously I don't want fuel to starve to the 540, so with a 1/2" fuel line, Im putting in this 170gph monster.
What do you guys think? If it pumps as good as it looks I should be okay. Being billet machined it looks strong as hell.



 
Discussion starter · #210 ·
I ordered a new cowl hood. It was damaged in shipping. Summit's customer service has always been good to me and they started a claim right away and got another hood on the way. This time through a different shipper and it showed up without a scratch. Those things are delicate and Im sure it doesn't take much to damage when handling.

I had some paint mixed up to shoot the hood and touch up some chips along the way. One area needing attention is the fenders. These emblems just won't work anymore.



Obviously the correct way to fill the holes is to weld em up. I will do that when I strip it and tackle the body work. But I really want to get it all built back up first and drive it. The paint isn't horrible and its not been enjoyed for way too long. So till I do that, I will fill the small block emblem holes with liquid metal.

 
Discussion starter · #211 ·
Ill use this for the SB emblem holes until I strip the paint and weld them up. The BB emblem will almost cover the holes.









I bead blasted the headlight assemblies and installed new wear parts and lights.



 
Discussion starter · #212 ·
For the first time in years fenders are back on and its starting to look like a car again.

"Barn find fenders"








 
Discussion starter · #213 ·
I had to refresh the seat tracks before installing them.






I can honestly say that one of the most rewarding things is disassembling and bringing new life to parts of a car that you know have not been touched since the factory. That no previous caretakers of the car touched until you.

 
Discussion starter · #214 ·
Bead blasted...




Painted...




Lubed and assembled...




I left the original yellow paint on the slide lock spring. They are a little worn but no rust...




And installed on the seats...

 
Discussion starter · #215 ·
So I have realized that Eastwood Zinc Phosphate paint is too dark. I will have to redo these whenever I can paint the car. Sucks because I had bead blasted the parts that need phosphate, ordered the chemical from Palmetto as recommended here, but I could not find a container large enough to fully submerge the hinges and hood latch parts. I will hang onto them chemical and will hopefully have a container large enough by the time I paint.

Here are the hinges after blast, paint and new springs...






I decided to make a hood lock, very similar to the style Luwi67 made thats found in the "Tips & Tricks" Section. Thank you Bobby. The biggest difference I did was weld up a support to hold the body of the lock. I also shaved down the corners of the lock for two reasons: 1. This lock is HEAVY so it took off some weight. 2. I am going to paint this lock so it doesn't stand out looking through the grill.







 
Discussion starter · #216 ·
Seat backs bead blasted and painted.






Grill and head light trim cleaned, painted and polished.











It has been WAY TOO LONG since i have seen this view.........



 
Discussion starter · #217 ·
There is almost a one inch difference between the driver side and passenger side of the gap between bottom of the headlight door and the backside of the grill.





So close hear its making contact:



I have loosened the rad support and pushed the pass side of it rearward as far as it would go. Has helped but barely. Any suggestions? I have loosened and tweaked all sheetmetal gaps as possible.




It feels strange sitting so much higher with the new seat springs!





 
Discussion starter · #219 ·
Thank you.
Getting there...
The new Fox shocks from Hotchkis arrived.




Routing the 1/2" fuel line basically along the same route as the stock line. I have screwed the clamps into the original holes for the original clips so no new holes in the frame or body.






Fuel line and battery cable routed:

 
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