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boodlefoof

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

Well, I've got the interior basically gutted. I've removed everything that can be removed thus far, will soon be POR-15 treating the floor, and am looking for any hints/suggestions/ideas about what I am going to be doing when I begin reassembly.

Here is the basic plan for the interior... I'm going rather minimalist. I want a black/charcoal grey scheme. I plan on painting the dash grey, having a grey carpet and headliner, and grey door panels, sail panels, kick panels, pillar posts... the seats will be black as will the dash pad and the edge mouldings around the headliner and at the top edge of the front and rear glass. Also considering a 4 point roll bar to help mount some 4 point belts.

Here are my questions...

1. Seats. I am planning on going with a pair of the Summit brand racing buckets. My question is, what all is involved with attaching them to the floor... does the bracketry bolt to the stock floor positions? Do they weld in? Can I somehow adapt them to the stock floor mounting nuts?

2. Roll Bar. Is it best to put this in before or after the rest of the interior? Or, alternatively is there any simple way to mount the 4 point harnesses without the roll bar? Also, any suggestions on where to get a kit, or should I have a shop custom fabricate one?

3. Rear Seat Delete. I plan on leaving out the rear seat (dead weight) and want to have a nice looking block off. I plan to drill the spot welds and remove the old rear seat mounting pieces and fab up a metal divider between the trunk and cabin, then covering this with grey carpet as the rest of the car... perhaps stitch a design on it to add some flair. Any ideas or suggestions?

4. Headliner. I intend to install a grey felt headliner similar to the headliner of modern cars. I posted about this awhile back and got a few responses... just wondering if anyone has anything else to add. I figure I need to make a backing piece of some sort to glue the headliner to... I'm thinking that it might be best to use some thin plastic or a sheet of aluminum? Any thoughts?

5. Painting Dash. Want to paint it the charcoal grey color (not the pad, that will be black). Any particular paints I should look into? Any primers? Will I be able to do a good job without removing the front and rear glass?

6. Dash Wiring. I plan on fabricating a plate to fit where the stock heater controls/ash tray thing/radio would go. It will house a few guages. At the same time, I want to give the interior a little bit of a "vintage trans am" sort of feel, and as such am contemplating some toggle switches... I am thinking of having the wipers, the headlights, dome light, and the brights controlled by toggle switches mounted on this panel. Any ideas or thoughts? (other than "oh gross toggle switches!" :D )

7. Vinyl Dye. I'm guessing I won't be able to get new door panels, kick panels, etc in the charcoal grey color I want... any tips on dying/restoring the pieces I have? Also, I plan on reusing my old moulding pieces from around the headliner and dying those black. Any suggestions there?

8. "U" shaped console bracket and horseshoe shifter. I plan on doing away with the old console and putting in a new shifter (Hurts V-matic or one of the B&M shifters). Is it possible to remove the "U" shaped bracket without dropping the trans? Also, is there a trick to getting the horseshoe shifter cable up through the floor? It seems stuck in there pretty good.

9. Sound Deadener. I'm not too picky about it being a bit noisy in the car... but I figure I'll put something down under the carpet. I've read a few posts that talk about "death mat" among others... I'm looking for something inexpensive, that won't add too much weight but that will kill as much sound as possible (isn't that what everyone wants in sound deadener!).

10. Driveshaft Loop. I've looked at the type that bolt to the tailshaft mount of the trans, but am thinking that while I've got the carpet up it might not be a bad idea to get a bolt in style... then I could tack welt the nuts on the interior side of the floor. Any thoughts? I've got the Flowmaster American Thunder system and that H-pipe looks like it may be in the way.

That's All! (wasn't too much right? ;) ) Thanks a lot for any tips or suggestions. Look forward to putting it back together this winter (and during the spring break) so I can get back on the road for summer. Of course, I'll be sure to take pictures for my website along the way if I can (digital camera has been acting funny).

John D.
www.geocities.com/boodlefoof
 
as far as ? #2, def. build the cage prior to interior. me personally, i would not waste my $ on a pre-fabbed cage. i had a sharp welder do my cage. that way you can build it any way you want it. check out www.willisracing.com he's got some pictures of his cage and some shots of the back area where he covered where the rear seats were. killer site. killer car.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
thanks for the response cmurph. I figured it would be better to do with the interior out.

That is one bad Camaro!

Any other thoughts on the questions anyone?
 
#7: When I put an A-piller gauge pad in my 96 Formula, I used Mar-Hyde gray bumper paint. It is so close in color to GM's "Graphite" interior color that you couldn't tell the difference. Because it was for rubber bumpers, it had a flex agent in it - no cracking. Purchased at the local Advance Auto.

Other than that, clean the pieces VERY well. I've had the best results with wax and grease remover. I think Eastwood and others have some prep agents, too. I don't know how well they work, though.

#8: The horseshoe and brackets can all be removed from inside the car - except for the tranny end of the shift cable, obviously. The bolts go into threaded inserts in the sheet metal. So, you don't have to climb under the car and hold your nuts. :D

If you put a V-matic in, the bolts will not fit into those inserts. It requires new holes and a nut/lockwasher/bolt combo. Find a friend with thin arms and you can tighten down the shifter without lowering the tranny.

-Chad
 
Well since I have had my 68 since 86 I have been through most of what you are thinking about. So here are my suggestions:
1. I have the Jaz drag seats in my car. I am 6' tall so I mounted the seats to the floor using 1/4" aluminum plate. I bolted the plate to the seat bottom and then drilled the floor to mount the brackets to the floor.
2. I would put the bar in first. This way you can figure out where the seat should mount and also attach the seat back to the hoop cross bar.
3. I wouldn't remove the mounting brackets or the xbrace from the car. Someday down the road you may want to restore the car and then you will have to hunt for these brackets. To block off the trunk from the pass compartment simply make a bulkhead from .032" aluminum and rivet it to the stock brace.
4. You will have a hell of a time getting a modern headliner into the car with the roll bar in place. I would sugest taking your old liner out carefully and have an upholstery shop stitch up a new one in the fabric of choice.
5. I would sand down the dash to bare metal and the epoxy prime, primer surfacer and then single stage urethane. Spray bombs will lift the factory paint.
6.I have done exactly this to my car. Let me know if you want to sell the portion that you cut out that has the mounting pads for the heater controls and the radio. Mine is long gone!
7.Clean all the pieces good with a silicone remover. SEM offers a complete dye kit that includes the cleaner primer dye and sealer. Most paint stores carry the SEM line or do a net search.
8. KEEP THE OLD PARTS! You never know when you may need them.
10. Don't scew around with this one. I have the same exhaust and the bolt on loop mounts just in front of the the h pipe. The hoop should be no more then 6" from the front u-joint. Secure it to the floor with grade 8 bolts and thick fender washers to disperse the load.
Hope this helps!
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
thanks a bunch spongebob and chassisboy.
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I've been thinking about how much of a bear it is going to be putting in a headliner with the hoop in place I'm thinking that I may be able to slide it in through the front windshield hole when I pull the glass.

Yeah, I got under the car last night to see about how to pull that U-bracket and install a new shifter... doesn't look like it is going to be fun...

Chassisboy,
If I end up cutting out enough that it might be helpful to you... it is yours. However, at this point I don't plan on cutting much at all... just enough to clear the guage backs because the guages will me mounted in a plate that will bolt over what is there already... it will kind of replace the metal woodgrain insert that went there before...

Thanks again. If anyone has anything else to add, my ears (or eyes I suppose) are open.

Image
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Bump + update.

Well, I got out there and did some work on the cars today... gave the Z a manual trans fluid change... I hate gear lube and fill holes that are blocked by all kinds of exhaust and stuff!

For the Camaro, I got some LEDs that I plan to use as turn signal indicators, and started cleaning the interior pieces that I'm going to be reusing... Also got some DupliColor brand vinyl dye and tried it out... looks great!

I also went over to an interior shop today to talk to a guy about this headliner... he did one similar in an interesting way... he used some heavy felt and stitched it just like the vinyl headliner and hung it with the bows. Showed me what it looked like (in a VW bug) and it looked very nice... we'll see how my stitching skills hold up.

Any other suggestions always appreciated.
 
John will you be driving it to Minn. this summer? :D
Merry Christmas from your other 'home'.
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Discussion starter · #9 ·
Hey Jim,

Don't know if I'll be making it to Minnesota this summer. We'll see what my summer job will allow. :rolleyes:
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
update if anyone is interested... I've got the POR-15 down on the floors and have now fabricated my new 5-guage dash insert which will fit in place of the stock woodgrain trimmed center piece. Looks pretty good... just need to do a little grinding and painting on it. Hopefully I'll have a few pics up on my website within the next week.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Well, I got a little ways in putting together the new interior section of the webpage today. Take a look... some pictures, but hope to put up better ones soon.

www.geocities.com/boodlefoof/newinterior
 
Nice pics, John. I'm interested in how your seats will feel. For my back seat area, I'm putting in the seat cushions/back from a 2000 Camaro. They're light and will look like a 'normal' interior. The stock stuff is heavy although probably not significant in the big picture. It all helps. I too did the POR15 job on new floors. What a task!
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Rick,
I actually really like the feel of the Summit Racing buckets. They give very good low back support, so you sit up straight, and the side support is also very good. Actually... I've got one on the floor in the living room and I've been sitting in it while I watch TV!
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
got another bit of a website update goin' on. I've added two new pages to the "interior" section, and put in some better pics in the previous interior pages. Check it out...

I'll add more as I have the time and as the work progresses. It may be awhile before I start to really reassemble anything though... classes start back up on Monday.
 
I don't know how tall you are, but I am six foot and in order for the Summit seats in my 68 to fit right I had to mount them to the floor with a 1/4" aluminum plate. I bolted the plate to the bottom of the seats with countersunk allen bolts and then bolted the plate to the floor. I started out using the seat brackets that they sell but my head kept hitting the headliner. Keep this in mind.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Thanks Chassisboy, I will. I'm about 5' 11'' and after I first set the seat in there and tested it out, it did feel a little higher than the old ones... we'll see how it goes!
 
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