and now to the rear, drop leafs or 4 link?

jrhyno · Apr 5, 2016

And now moving to the back half.

Pros and cons of upgraded leaf springs (much cheaper, at least) vs. 4 links or other rear options. I'm restoring my 67 vert, and will be adding minitubs. I see that some 4 link systems (Martz for example) don't cut into the rear seat area.

Overall impressions of both?

My car will not be used for the strip or autocrossing, just want a very good responsive driving car.

Thanks,

Jeff

Headshake · Apr 6, 2016

Since you plan to install mini-tubs I would not recommend using leafs. You will have more tire clearance and suspension adjustability with a canted 4 link, 3 link or torque arm and coilovers. To be honest mini-tubs will create more intrusion into your back seat area than either the Chassisworks G-Link or Ridetech 4-Link both of which are pretty simple to install compared to say the DSE Quadralink. Personally, I would stay away from the Martz 4 link, it is more of a drag race style suspension and they are not a major player or supporter of the Pro-Touring market.

tp_smith · Apr 6, 2016

If you mini-tub a convertible, the rear seat will have to be modified. The rear seat will have to be cut down and reupholstered to fit between the tubs. The back seat brace where the convertible pump mounts will also have to be shortened.

The convertible top mechanism arms will have to be modified to clear the wider tubs.

After all these modifications, cutting the car to fit a new rear suspension is minor.

1) If you decide to continue to use leaf springs, consider changing to a multi-leaf spring setup like the 68 and 69 models have. You will have less axle wrap. You can continue to run leaf springs with offset shackles.

2) Four links are great for straight line (drag racing) acceleration. They are also used for autocross racing but a three link is better suited. Four links can be subdivided into two categories:

a) The first is parallel four link. It will require some cutting and welding on the car. It requires a pan hard bar or a Watts link to center the axle. It has some adjustability. You can adjust the pinion angle, the wheelbase and some lateral movement of the axle. Some people say they can bind up as the suspension articulates. Detroit speed makes a Quadralink kit. They claim that it does not bind like the competitors.

b) The second is a triangulated four link. You will do a lot of cutting and welding to get it to fit. You might not be able to fit a back seat. It does not require a pan hard bar or Watts link.

3) A triangulated three link is great for autocross racing. It is just ok for drag racing. A three link will require the most cutting and welding. Forget about a back seat. It is the most adjustable. It can be tuned to the particular track conditions. It has the most articulation.

4) You did not mention a torque arm suspension. You might consider this setup. Certain manufactures claim their kits require almost no cutting and welding. They are the least adjustable. I don’t think the articulation is as good as the link suspensions. It is a good compromise between straight line acceleration and autocross racing.

5) The last is an independent suspension. A lot of modern cars now use this type. I am not sure how to adjust the suspension. Heidts and Art Morrison make this type. They cost lots of money.

My car will be driven on the street, a parallel four link or torque arm were my two choices.

Vega$69 · Apr 6, 2016

Minis in a coupe also require modding the rear seat. You can mini and retain the leafs by using offset shackles from DSE. However if you move the springs inboard you will not be able to use the stock width fuel tank.

Next will be you should narrow the rear end and going to custom offset wider wheels and tires.

If you go with a torque arm (which I like better the 4 or 3 link) you can use the stock with tank. The Torque Arms are very adjustable the same as a Link suspension.

If it was my car I'd skip the minis and probably use a drop leaf rear spring, good adjustable shocks and a sway bar. Along with the right tires the car will be great on the street and not break the bank.

btw what are you doing with the front suspension?

jrhyno · Apr 6, 2016

Vega$69 said:
Minis in a coupe also require modding the rear seat. You can mini and retain the leafs by using offset shackles from DSE. However if you move the springs inboard you will not be able to use the stock width fuel tank.

Next will be you should narrow the rear end and going to custom offset wider wheels and tires.

If you go with a torque arm (which I like better the 4 or 3 link) you can use the stock with tank. The Torque Arms are very adjustable the same as a Link suspension.

If it was my car I'd skip the minis and probably use a drop leaf rear spring, good adjustable shocks and a sway bar. Along with the right tires the car will be great on the street and not break the bank.

btw what are you doing with the front suspension?

Hi John,

With the front, I'm going to need a new subframe, mine has 50 years of age on it and some previous damage. I'm not completely sure. I thought about getting an OEM subframe, and upgrading and replacing most of the front end parts. I talked to Mark Savitske a couple of times and he educated me about the original front end geometry (not good!), and which parts were needed to upgrade to give it proper handling.

So that's one option. Another option, as I see it, is to buy an aftermarket subframe that has rack and pinion, new brakes, etc. Apparently lots of folks fabricate these aftermarket frames, I'm gathering info. I'm trying to see what the cost difference is between going old and going new.

See my related post in this forum regarding the front. All input appreciated.

Jeff

Vega$69 · Apr 6, 2016

jrhyno said:
Hi John,

With the front, I'm going to need a new subframe, mine has 50 years of age on it and some previous damage. I'm not completely sure. I thought about getting an OEM subframe, and upgrading and replacing most of the front end parts. I talked to Mark Savitske a couple of times and he educated me about the original front end geometry (not good!), and which parts were needed to upgrade to give it proper handling.

So that's one option. Another option, as I see it, is to buy an aftermarket subframe that has rack and pinion, new brakes, etc. Apparently lots of folks fabricate these aftermarket frames, I'm gathering info. I'm trying to see what the cost difference is between going old and going new.

See my related post in this forum regarding the front. All input appreciated.

Jeff

When I did the math starting with a OEM sub and doing the upgrades cost very close to buying an aftermarket sub.

I like TCI front subs. They are very good for the money and are 100% bolt in.

Had TCI on in my Black 69 with the LS7 and was very happy with it. Also had the TCI rear TA. Now doing a TCI TA on my sons 69 build.

dhutton · Apr 6, 2016

tp_smith said:
If you mini-tub a convertible, the rear seat will have to be modified. The rear seat will have to be cut down and reupholstered to fit between the tubs. The back seat brace where the convertible pump mounts will also have to be shortened.

The convertible top mechanism arms will have to be modified to clear the wider tubs.

After all these modifications, cutting the car to fit a new rear suspension is minor.

1) If you decide to continue to use leaf springs, consider changing to a multi-leaf spring setup like the 68 and 69 models have. You will have less axle wrap. You can continue to run leaf springs with offset shackles.

2) Four links are great for straight line (drag racing) acceleration. They are also used for autocross racing but a three link is better suited. Four links can be subdivided into two categories:

a) The first is parallel four link. It will require some cutting and welding on the car. It requires a pan hard bar or a Watts link to center the axle. It has some adjustability. You can adjust the pinion angle, the wheelbase and some lateral movement of the axle. Some people say they can bind up as the suspension articulates. Detroit speed makes a Quadralink kit. They claim that it does not bind like the competitors.

b) The second is a triangulated four link. You will do a lot of cutting and welding to get it to fit. You might not be able to fit a back seat. It does not require a pan hard bar or Watts link.

3) A triangulated three link is great for autocross racing. It is just ok for drag racing. A three link will require the most cutting and welding. Forget about a back seat. It is the most adjustable. It can be tuned to the particular track conditions. It has the most articulation.

4) You did not mention a torque arm suspension. You might consider this setup. Certain manufactures claim their kits require almost no cutting and welding. They are the least adjustable. I don’t think the articulation is as good as the link suspensions. It is a good compromise between straight line acceleration and autocross racing.

5) The last is an independent suspension. A lot of modern cars now use this type. I am not sure how to adjust the suspension. Heidts and Art Morrison make this type. They cost lots of money.

My car will be driven on the street, a parallel four link or torque arm were my two choices.

Ridetech has a bolt in triangulated four link suspension. No cutting needed. Minor welding of tabs to rear end housing. I would choose it over a parallel four link other than a Quadralink.

Don

and now to the rear, drop leafs or 4 link?

jrhyno

Headshake

tp_smith

Vega$69

jrhyno

Vega$69

dhutton

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