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Yeah but how do you clean it?

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resto_noob

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Internet Camaro Experts,

During the disassembly phase of a restoration, how to you return that factory new sparkle to dirty old parts? Most restoration manuals I've seen sorta skip over the disassembly phase, and it seems to me that's when parts ought to be cleaned and cataloged as opppsed to storing them dirty and getting around to it later.

1) What's in your arsenal of cleaners and solvents?

2) Are there certain cleaners that work better than others for different tasks (e.g., cleaning rust/grease/oil/carbon deposits, etc.)?

3) Do you have a workstation in your garage for cleaning parts as they come off the car? What does it look like?

4) What parts do you paint or powder coat, and what parts do you just give a good scrub and call it good?

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
I have used gasoline, kerosene, diesel fuel, brake clean, carb cleaner, simple green, awesome, armor all
just use a little common sense. you wouldn't gas to clean your interior as well you wouldn't armor all to clean a greasy oil pan
 
#3 ·
Not sure how serious you are, but, these are a big help with the small stuff.:wink2: You'll need a pretty decent air compressor also!
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#5 ·
I use evapo-rust on a lot of things, takes off wear and rust leaves paint and finish.
There are several threads on restoring original finishes - oil rub cast iron, grey or black phosphate, paint, etc.
Never underestimate the power of SOS pads and warm water on metal. Most of the time it is just elbow grease.
Soaking small parts and screws in a crock pot with just water and dish soap also does a bang up job but will remove paint.
 
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#6 ·
Don't forget the wire wheel! When I did my project I found that you never got a break! Every nut, bolt, pin and piece gets the treatment! Buy lots of bags, good sharpies for labels, take lots of pictures and put wires on parts that are from the right side of the car (visual aid). Put up lots of tables. Drink beer often...
 
#8 ·
X2 for the evaporust! Have used hundreds of times and its great stuff. Search Palmetto products to learn how easy it is to phosphate parts but as earlier mentioned the glass bead unit is a must. Now, spend a lot of time researching what finishes you should have and spend time diagnosing your parts for different markings, etc. You will not receive all the info you need so hit that search key and spend quality time determining your course of action.
I know I sure did with our 68 restoration. :grin2:
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Alright dudes, for those who replied "for my restoration...etc", throw me some before and after pics on this thread. I know there are other threads dedicated to that but I want to see it here and I'll be damned if I can't want another minute for that '69 to show up in my driveway in another month.

Loving all the top-notch advice thus far. Y'all should collectively write a book.
 
#11 ·
resto_noob said:
Alright dudes, for those who replied "for my restoration...etc", throw me some before and after pics on this thread. I know there are other threads dedicated to that but I want to see it here and I'll be damned if I can't want another minute for that '69 to show up in my driveway in another month.

Loving all the top-notch advice thus far. Y'all should collectively write a book.
Click to expand...
resto_noob said:
Also, how do you deal with larger parts like suspension equipment?
Click to expand...
No I'm not going to post pics to show you before and after pics but you can easily spend time on my build thread and see plenty of what your asking. You need to search and do some work on your part. :)
 
#13 ·
resto_noob said:
Alright dudes, for those who replied "for my restoration...etc", throw me some before and after pics on this thread. I know there are other threads dedicated to that but I want to see it here and I'll be damned if I can't want another minute for that '69 to show up in my driveway in another month.

Loving all the top-notch advice thus far. Y'all should collectively write a book.
Click to expand...
Check out the various build threads that are posted out here. A lot of guys have gone through or are going through what you are right now. They usually detail what they've done pretty well. I chose to disassemble, assess and then clean and restore before putting the parts back on. Different parts require different methods. I detailed a lot of what I did in my build thread. It's in my signature. A media blast cabinet with aluminum oxide has been a huge help for me, but a large, good quality air compressor is a must have first.
 
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#14 ·
If you have a specific part you need advice on post is up. You'll get specific answers that will be beneficial.

Just asking a blanket statement that would take a book to answer just isn't practical.

Are you looking to just clean or to restore to as original?

To your larger parts question. If just cleaning then degreasers, power washers and plain old soap and water will get the job done.

For rust I'd recommend taking them to a local media blaster. We have a couple here that charge $2 per minute. Sounds high until they tell you they will do a full subframe in 10-15 minutes with the professional equipment they use.
 
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#15 ·
First you need to decide if you want a true "restoration" as mentioned above. If you are looking to to make it look like it just left the factory you will need to check on the particular part you working with and figure out the original finish or lack thereof. I believe the original control arms on my '68 were painted flat black but I have shiny black tubular versions from Detroit Speed now. Check out this thread from CRG: correct front suspension parts finishes. Parts washers are great for getting all those years of crud off. I had access to a heated soap solution version at work and it was nice. (The one we used to have with solvent was better). If you are doing a "resto-mod" then powder coating or epoxy is nice on parts that were originally black but its up to you. I have tried to paint most things sometime before it goes back on just so it will stay looking good even if it was originally bare metal. Cast Blast or something similar is nice for cast stuff to look sort of original. Stuff like suspension I would store until you decide if you are going to upgrade various parts and don't waste a bunch of effort and some money painting them.
 
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#17 ·
There are lots of parts cleaning solvents out there. Kerosene may be the cheapest for soaking. I mounted an old washing machine motor to my workbench with various size wire wheels attached. I use it all the time for cleaning off rust, built up grease, whatever. Also made a buffer attachment for it. POR 15 products are pricey but work well. Sometimes rattle can paint is all you need.
Get creative, maybe you will find something new to pass on to TC.
 
#19 ·
How to clean it? Elbow grease. Lacquer thinner. Simple Green. Wire wheel in a drill motor. Anything to get the grease, dirt, rust, etc off. Paint or powder coat? Owner/builder preference. Just dig into it and quit worrying about how to do it.
 
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