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Tokyo Torquer

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
When I took the drive train out for winter inspection (only 800 miles on her), I noticed my 11" McLeod disk was coming apart around the rivet holes on the flywheel side, small pieces, but was gouging up my new flywheel badly, and I have only had BFG TA radial street tires on her so far. It is obvious the clutch is not holding the power although it felt fine and I couldn't notice it slipping. Good thing I caught it as she would have disintergrated with the first use of slicks. I could go to a dual disk that I hear holds up to 1200hp, but I think that is more than what I need, as there would be absolutely no slippage and I am concerned about breaking parts for this mostly street car that will see slicks and the strip on a handful of times this year. I have called Mcleod tech every day for 3 weeks straight..5 times a day and I can't get through to anyone. I left messages with the lady in sales, but they don't return my calls, so I am turning to you guys for advice.

Who out there has a manual trans with 550 or better ft lbs of torque and has a clutch that holds fine with slicks. If you fit this description, please let me know what you are using and how it is working out for you. A light pedal feel is important.

thx.
 
Hiya - for what it's worth - I'm running a 468 with all the go fast goodies in my 69. What I am using for a clutch is an 11" Ram 6000 Series Clutch Disc (Sintered Bronze, 11.00 in. Diameter, 1 1/ 8 in.x 26 Spline) Summit part number RAM-6130. with an 11" Ram diaphram pressure plate resprung to 3200 lbs. The harder I slip it, the harder it bites. Word of caution - it is hard on the flywheel and pressure plate - It's been beaten regularly on the street - no slip.....
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thanks Guys,

I finally got through after sales put me through to "George", someone who explained that he started the business with "Red" and had a lot of got information.

I was informed that I was sold a stock, "soft" clutch (#260171 11" disk, #360803 pressure plate) that wasn't holding the power. I bought my McLeod cluth from the people who I bought my TKO kit from and I was told then that the clutch was good for 550hp, even says it on my invoice. BS!! This is another thing this vendor got me on. Fortunately, now we have Jeff selling TKO's, but he wasn't established yet back when I bought mine. Stay away from the other vendor (you can probably guess) and buy from Jeff only.

Anyway, George at McLeod said that a McLeod twin disk set up would be overkill at 550 ft lbs of torque. It wouldn't allow for hany slippage at all and be harder on the drive train...and would be expensive, too.

He suggested that I incease the surface area by going to a 12" cheater clutch which will fit on my 168 tooth Hayes flywheel, go to a heavier cone, and use a 800 series disk with Kevlar material which will take the heat better over organic. The part numbers he recommended were a #260873 disk (26 spline for TKO) and #360820 diaphram pressure plate. He said this should still have the pedal feel of a stock 69 Camaro for the street.

He also has a strong suggestion for how to save a clutch for stick cars with slicks, which contradicted my original thinking. He recommemeded dumping the clutch at high RPM rather than launching at low RPM when searcing for the sweet spot. He said a 5000 rpm clutch drop will just blow off the tires, while a low rpm clutch drop risks seeing too much traction, pulling a wheel stand and smoking the clutch with big torque motors. He said said start dropping your RPM incremently until you find the traction you want and never let the tires hook after the burnout in the bleach box..go right to staging. This should save the clutch when you are at the track with slicks.

I pass on this info for the next guy who may be in my same shoes.
 
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