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Discussion starter · #1 ·
For info in helping me figure this out,I rebuilt my engine, I used a red colored engine assembly lube, I think it was made by permatex, but I'm not sure. My machine shop used white lithium grease on my valves when installing them in the guides. And then I used the really dark red cam lube that comp cams sent with my new cam.

I started the engine and ran it around 2000 Rpm's for 20 min. Then I started it a few times after that and set timing and let it idle for a few mins. Then today I checked the oil. I noticed the oil on the bottom of the dipstick was really dark almost like a grayish black color. I drained the oil and removed the filter. The top of the oil filter had the same color film of oil on the top of it. It almost looks like graphite.
I strained the oil from the filter through a clean rag and a paint strainer. It had a few very very small pieces of metal on the rag. So small that you couldn't remove them from the rag with your hands, almost like a piece of dust, alot smaller than glitter. The only way I could tell for sure it was metal was by using a magnet, and then you can't find it on the magnet it's so small.

So I figure after a new rebuild and break in it is normal to find a few of these particles in the oil filter, right?

My big question is what's causing this dark film in my oil?

The engine is running fine, I haven't driven it yet because my car is still apart (frame off), but it seems to be running fine.
 
Re: After engine break in I inspected my oil filter, here's what I found.

Most of the time the assembly lube will make the oil look like mettalic paint (if you have ever seen it in the can). Sounds like you did a great job of keeping every thing clean if that's all you found.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Re: After engine break in I inspected my oil filter, here's what I found.

I scrubbed the cylinders with hot soapy water, and removed the oil galley plugs and flushed them with ALOT of water. Then I made every effort to clean and keep clean everything as I assembled the engine.
 
Re: After engine break in I inspected my oil filter, here's what I found.

I am gonna say that you still have moly lube in bottom of pan,,,I always use that along with a oil intended for diesels, aka non detergent as you want a good break in with out all that slippy stuff cause you got it in the cam and lifters already,,, The white or red assembly lube will eventually work out but it will carry all the glitter for a while,, Works for me and I stayed at the Holiday Inn last nite.
 
Re: After engine break in I inspected my oil filter, here's what I found.

This stuff seems to stay at bottom as I have pulled pan later for what ever reason, I think it was for a main seal or pan gasket but what ever,, it was at bottom and its mainly moly lube or something like that. I would install a magnetic tip drain plug just to be sure I catch more metal later and there wasn't much more than a sludge. After going back to a hi detergent oil , over time it will take some out .
I dont ever use moly on anything but cam and lifters. For engine assy I use the Speed pro green slime or the Redline stuff that your cam came with,, Use it especially on rocker arm balls and spring area. And of course I use the Lubeplate or the Redline assembly grease,, something that will dilute when temp gets going and mix well. But dont over do it. You will be ok over time unless you start seeing more metal on that drain plug.
 
Re: After engine break in I inspected my oil filter, here's what I found.

z,

Oil for Diesel's is some of the highest detergent/extreme pressure containing oil there is!! Like in the old days...

BUT the EPA is getting it changed now too b/c of the NOX and PM2.5 Diesel emission regulations that are going to have to be implemented at about the same time as the super low sulfur diesel fuel has to be out!!

The EPA is in the process of cleaning up Diesel engines, JUST about ALL of them, like they've done our car and even the light truck engines!! (I'm kinda keeping track of all this at work for the fun of it).....

Like 2007 and all over everywhere by 2010 or so...

pdq67

PS., and they are even going after 49 cc 2-stroke jobbers and weedeater motors!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It won't be long until they will be history b/c of being regulated out of existance!! Check HFT's cat. where they say weedeaters can't be sold/shipped to Cali. and you will see what I mean... Remember the "RD" Yamaha, 2-stroke, road-burners..............
 
Re: After engine break in I inspected my oil filter, here's what I found.

You may be correct but some of the old Delo oils or just plain Penzoil black label will do as long as its non detergent but thats me and you do what ever you feel is correct for your motor..
 
Re: After engine break in I inspected my oil filter, here's what I found.

I dare say that the grey film/sludge you have there is brearing "dust" and is quite normal for a new engine. In fact it's quite normal for a worn-in engine too, -to a degree.
In theory, bearings never contact journals. In reality, they do.
I have a System1 filter that I check thoroughly with every oil change and always find this grey "dust". And at first, I crapped myself! The silver sparkles are from piston skirts and is also normal to a degree.
I recently had the main caps off with a couple of big ends for an inspection and the bearings were in extremely good shape. A few light scuff marks were present but nothing abnormal for a big block that makes 620hp and regulary sees 7000rpm every time it's taken out.
If you start finding copper colored debris in your oil, you have a problem. This would be the lower layer of bearing babbit material that should never be exposed unless something is tearing up your bearings. Dirty oil or lack of oil.
Don't confuse copper colored debris with brass from a brass distributor gear if you're using one.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Re: After engine break in I inspected my oil filter, here's what I found.

Thanks everyone, I'm not really worried about it. Just curious. I will inspect the filter again after my next oil change.
 
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