Team Camaro Tech banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

327 trouble

Jump to Latest
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
R

rigidsporty

· Registered
Joined
·
16 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
I just bought a 1980 Camaro RS with what the guy said was a "new" 327 engine. How can I tell (without tearing it apart) if its a crate engine or a rebuild (or if its a 327 at all for that matter). Also for a "new" engine it doesnt run worth a damn... it misses all the time and at one time the carb spit out gas and caught on fire. I changed the plug wires, distributor cap/rotor button, cleaned and re-gapped the plugs... nothing. I tried to set the timing but couldnt find the timing tag so I had to do it by ear (just moved it till it idled the highest). It misses worse on take off and at higher (65 or so) speeds. Driving it at "back road" speeds it still has a continuous miss bit it seems to be smoother. In park it runs perfect until you rev it up high, then it misses. I am far from being a mechanic so maybe I'm just missing something simple. Here are the specs...

Chevy 327 (?) with Edelbrock 1406 carb and Edelbrock Performer 2101 intake (all supposed to be new). Everything else appears to be stock. The trans is a 250 auto (I assume a 250... the pan looks like a 350 but the angle is on the passenger side instead of the drivers). It also had a clutch pedal tied up so it used to be a manual car. I can email pics of the engine compartment if that would be helpful.

Thanks in advance,
Tim Crawford
 
#4 ·
one way to find a miss, if it's ignition related, is to connect a timing light to each plug wire in turn, and watch for the lack of regular flashing.

If you don''t see a problem, you can remove (and then reinstall) each plug wire from the distributor cap, one at a time, to locate the problem cylinder.

What did the plugs looks like?
 
#5 ·
What's the letters at the end of the VIN number string on the block pad by the pass. side upper water pump bolt so we can narrow it down closer??

I ask b/c you may have a 210 hp/327??? The 250/275/300hp/327's are runners!!

pdq67
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
To pdq67,

If thats the number on the pad behind the alternator theres nothing there... the only numbers I found were on the deck at the rear of the engine. The block is really clean so they were easy to read.

Number on the drivers side... 3932386
Number on the passenger side... J228

MorTec said (quote)...

"It is a 1969 model 302, 327, or 350. (J 22 8 = October 22, 1968) That block casting number was used for all three engine in the 1969 model year. Without the stamped suffix code information from the front of the block, it is difficult to say which. The block has probably been decked at least once during a rebuild since it was originally produced.

You will have to pull the oil pan and check the crank casting numbers or stroke to tell if it is a 302, 327 or 350."

One day I'll look at the crank and also under the valve covers... but right now I'm more concerned with getting it to run right. I'm going to try a new coil (cause the spark on the #1 cyl. is weak) and a better set of plug wires.

To JimM,

The plugs looked really good and were gapped right. They looked like they were only in the car a short while. I do have a feeling this car was sitting for a long time before I got it though.

One more thing, the coil (and distributor) looked very old... the coil was loose and rusty. I reinstalled the dist. cap and plug wires (I hope I got them back on right... I started with the #1 cyl. on the right front "plug" (for lack of a better word) on the dist. cap and went clockwise in this firing order... 18436572... is that right?) and now it wont even fire. The #1 plug (the only one I checked) is getting spark but it looks very weak. Does anyone think it could be the coil/distributor before I dump the money?

My job went to Honduras a few months ago so the state is going to pay for schooling... I think I'm gonna take auto mechanics cause I hate not knowing what I'm doing! :confused:
 
Discussion starter · #9 · (Edited)
pdq67 said:
OK, run her dry AND put NEW gas in her!!

Run the dog-sh-t outta her until she comes around OR else!!

pdq67
Click to expand...
LOL... I've done ran two tanks through her already... but it wont even hit now so I gotta figure that one out first. I'm really leaning toward the coil cause when it did run it only missed under load and the heavier the load the worse it missed... it also backfired gas through the carb (not burning hot enough?) several times on the trip home with it. Plus I think thats the original 1980 distributor. I just wish I had another coil I could use to see if thats the problem. Oh well... at least with a new one I wont have to worry about it. I thought about going with a Accel or MSD HEI replacement... any suggestions?
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
victimizati0n said:
set the timing right.

Setting timing untill the RPMs are at their highest, is a bad way of doing it. Acually thinking about it, the faster it would go is when your spark is retarded, and pushing the cylinder down, thus higher RPM.
Click to expand...
I cant set the timing right cause the timing tag isnt there. The previous owner must have removed it or something. If you know how to do it with out that I'm all ears. And your right about not setting it where it idles fastest... it ran a little better (when it did run) but it wouldnt start again untill I turned it about an inch back. See... I told you I didnt know what I was doing... lol.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
Well I figured out why it didnt start... I had the plug wires routed for the 1969 engine when I should have routed them for the 1980 distributor. I had to move the wires counter-clockwise on the distributor one place then she fired right up. :thumbsup: It still misses though but at least now its randon instead of continuous. Also I can hear (what little I can hear over the loud a$$ exhaust... I hate a loud vehicle... except my bike of course) the valves rattling under load. Probably the timing (?) but I dont know how to set it with out that degree tag on there. There is also hesitation on a quick take-off.... well... a not-so-quick take-off... it wouldnt even break traction on a wet road *sigh*. Think that might be a tranny/torque converter problem? It dont shift very well either and when you stomp it it dont downshift. I wish I had the money I'd put a muncie 4-speed in it... course if I had the money I would have bought a better car to begin with. :rolleyes: The choke on the carb is also stuck/frozen open. Damn... I'm beginning to regret buying this car... good thing my truck runs good.

I appreciate everyone's help/advise and keep them coming, if you've read these posts you know I need all the help I can get! Remind me to buy all you guys a beer. :beers:
 
#12 ·
Go to the store and buy the $10 timing tag and then you can get it timed right!

Erik
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#13 ·
Rigid, glad you got it running again... now get it running right before you throw money at it. That "rattling"is spark knock, your timing is too far advanced. rotate the distributor a lil (vac can toward the carb) and try it, repeat untill the knocking goes away.

As suggested, pick up a cheap timing tab from an autoparts store, make sure you get the right one for your year engine.

Check for spark on the rest of the plugwires as I suggested.

What kind of distributor is in it, points or hei? If points, then new points cap and rotor. If hei, check for red dust under the rotor, replace the cap and rotor if you see some.

Do a basic trans service, new fluid and filter, see if that helps. is this a t350, or powerglide, or? Check for correct installation and adjustment of the kickdown cable...

As the car's been sitting, the smartest / cheapest things to do will be a full preventative check, tune-up, and fluid changes, and go from there.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
I did the timing light trick with the wires and they all seemed to be the same. The plugs look like new on the inside but the outside are rusty... I think I might change them anyway.

Forgive my ignorance but where does the timing tab mount to? Is there a threaded hole in the block or something? And does it go on the right or left side?

As far as I know its the original HEI distributor from 1980. Could be wrong about the year but I know its HEI. I already replaced the cap and rotor. It helped a little. I'm still thinking of changing the coil... it looked pretty bad and a Wells brand at AutoZone was just $18.

The guy I bought it off of said the tranny was a 350 turbo but I think its a 250.... the pan looks like a 350 but the slant is on the rear passenger side instread of the rear drivers side. I gotta pick up some jackstands or something before I can do anything under the car... its only 6 inches off the ground.

I wish I had as much money as I do time... theres only so many advantages of being laid off. :cool:
 
#15 ·
The tabs I know of, bolt on with two screws, on the timing chain cover.(Remove the two from cover and replace along with pointer.) They are also available at your Chevy dealer and you need to know if its for an 8 inch or 6 inch balancer.
 
owns 1969 Chevrolet Camaro
View garage
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #16 ·
TJS69 said:
The tabs I know of, bolt on with two screws, on the timing chain cover.(Remove the two from cover and replace along with pointer.) They are also available at your Chevy dealer and you need to know if its for an 8 inch or 6 inch balancer.
Click to expand...
Cool... thanks TJS69, I'll check out AutoZone or someplace first... the dealer usually wants 10 times what something is worth. Damn, its funny... I can build a Harley from the frame up but cant seem to tune one of the most common engines in the world. Go figure! :clonk:
 
Discussion starter · #18 · (Edited)
As far as the trans goes... hell I don't know what's in it. The pan shape chart in the Haynes manual says one thing and this says another...

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB...et/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/1a/28/e4/0900823d801a28e4.jsp

According to the AutoZone chart it looks like the second one down...a 200. But with very little room under there (even jacked up) its hard to tell cause for some unknown reason, everyone thinks its a law to install air shocks on EVERYTHING and like all the cars I've owned with air shocks... they dont hold air. You fill them up and it has a reasonable stance... an hour later its a freakin' lowrider. :angry: They're also on my list to 86.

I did however finally look under the drivers side valve cover and found this number... 3927185.

According to the MorTec site (http://www.mortec.com/castnum.htm) its also a 69, and me being the lazy bastard that I am... I just assumed the other head is a match (and thats bad considering their Edelbrock valve covers and there's only 4 of those t-bolts to take off). :D
 
1 - 20 of 28 Posts
About this Discussion
27 Replies
8 Participants
Last post:
rigidsporty
Team Camaro Tech
posts
2.4M
members
90K
Since
1998
A forum community dedicated to 1st generation Chevy Camaros owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, builds, restoration, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, reviews, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Bench Racing Engine Body Shop Performance Brakes, Suspension & Steering