I have a 68SS and put together a 355 and have always had issues trying to start it when it was hot(headers). It was a crap shoot if it would start. I even installed one of those MAD remote starter solonoids on the inside wheel well and I still had hot start problems. So I finally decided to spend the money on a light weight gear reduction unit. I installed it about a couple weeks ago. Boy, did it turn the engine over fast. No heat soak issues either. I was a happy boy :beers: . Well, yesterday I went to take it out and take my boys with me. So I started it up pulled it out of the garage and shut if off. Went to start it, nothing..... Not even a click. So the next day, I try to jump the MAD solonoid ( which is a ford type) no luck turning the starter over. So I go and get a new solonoid, put it in and the starter turns over but doesn't engage. Great I must have something wrong with the starter now. So I put in the old GM starter and the car starts up and I go back to the speed shop and get a new starter. Put it in and it still doesn't engage the flywheel. It just spins. Put the old GM starter in it and it starts right up! So I am a little perplexed with this problem. I am thinking something is going on with the solonoid, I just for the life of me can't think of what? I am wondering if anyone has had a similiar problem. :clonk:
X33camaro
I have a gear reduction starter installed in my 69 Z, not sure what manufacturer though, but works great. How is yours wired up? My set up has one wire coming from the starter and connected to the lower "POST" on the solenoid. There is an upper "POST" that the battery cable is connected to and a "BLADE" type connection where I have the PURPLE wire attached. Starts with no problems every time I get in the car and go.
Let me know if you need any help on this and I'll try my best. Also, since yours is a 68, the color of the wires may be different. Just look to see what is in the harness and what is attached to the 2 small connecters on the solenoid marked R and S
Personally, I think you should do away with the remote stuff. That COULD be draining your battery. You never know about electrical problems. Always a pain in the keester. But that's what makes it fun. Maybe!!!!!
Let me know if you need any help on this and I'll try my best. Also, since yours is a 68, the color of the wires may be different. Just look to see what is in the harness and what is attached to the 2 small connecters on the solenoid marked R and S
Personally, I think you should do away with the remote stuff. That COULD be draining your battery. You never know about electrical problems. Always a pain in the keester. But that's what makes it fun. Maybe!!!!!
:clonk: Thanks for the reply. yeah, I have had time to think and I agree its something to do with the remote solonoid. I have the OEM wired like this with the MAD solonoid. There is a jumper going to the S terminal of the OEM GM solonoid to the BAT of the STarter. Nothing on the R side. The MAD solonoid has the OEM wires going to it from the harness.R for R and S for Start. I like this set up because with a remote starter switch you can bump the engine when adjusting valves or just start it from the engine compartment.
The proform unit is wired the same with a jumper from the S to the main BAT. It worked great till the MAD solonoid died. I went to there web site and they said that the gear unit should work fine. If I have starter problems there must be something drawing it down.
I am just a little miffed right now and have to be in the right frame of mind to work on the car. I have had it for over 25 years so I have changed alot on it and I am not looking forward to rewiring the new starter more directly. I will have to reroute the R terminal to something?
Eddie
The proform unit is wired the same with a jumper from the S to the main BAT. It worked great till the MAD solonoid died. I went to there web site and they said that the gear unit should work fine. If I have starter problems there must be something drawing it down.
I am just a little miffed right now and have to be in the right frame of mind to work on the car. I have had it for over 25 years so I have changed alot on it and I am not looking forward to rewiring the new starter more directly. I will have to reroute the R terminal to something?
Eddie
the R terminal is for the distributor, when starting it gives the coil power and bypasses the balast resistor. you do not need to have anything hooked up to it, unless you have the balast resistor still in place, you should have it hooked up
with the mini starter, i dont think you need the remote solenoid, the problem may be that the main battery lug of the soleniod needs to have power before the start signal gets (purple wire) to the soleniod, to prevent a voltage spike
with the mini starter, i dont think you need the remote solenoid, the problem may be that the main battery lug of the soleniod needs to have power before the start signal gets (purple wire) to the soleniod, to prevent a voltage spike
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