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327 Top end rebuild.....

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EC's 327

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have recently aquired a 1968 327 4 speed camaro.....

I have searched high and low over the past few days and really thie info I am looking of is not really here....

Here is what I know about my Motorn I know it has "Wedge" heads, Either 040s or 041s, suposedly ported, suposedly .500 lift cam (says its a 292 comp cam), forged pistons, pink rods, and forged crank.

It sat for about 12 years before a buddie bought it, and now it is mine, The reason I think the top end needs redone is that it seems that the valve seals are leaking, not bad when it runs all the time but when it sits for a while it gets a prety good puff for the first few times you start it and 3, 2, and 5 show oil fouling on the plugs.....

My question is, what is a good cam for this motor (4.11 rear) and are these heads good enough to spend the cash to recondition or should I look at aftermarkets, This is not a daily driver....I am looking for lumpy and a screamer, I know these are know to rev, I love the sound of a SBC at 6K+

any thoughts?

If I have Pull the moter I may as well look at bearings and all but, the assumption right now is good, (60 psi 25 at idle)

Thanks all!

EMC
 
#2 ·
What did it do before it sat 12yrs? In a 4spd Camaro with the mods you listed Id atleast pull the pan and valve covers and do some checking starting with the bearings. I just think its cheap insurance to know what you have. :D Probably is the seals causin it to puff at startup. Just a guess without checking them though.
 
#3 ·
Thats good advice to see what you have before running the car a lot. If all the normal stuff checks out you can get a leak- down test done. This will tell you where the problems are. I would also suggest you do a normal compression test to establish a baseline. 12 years is a long time in the garage.

wilma
 
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Discussion starter · #5 ·
TexasPerfProd said:
What did it do before it sat 12yrs? In a 4spd Camaro with the mods you listed Id atleast pull the pan and valve covers and do some checking starting with the bearings. I just think its cheap insurance to know what you have. :D Probably is the seals causin it to puff at startup. Just a guess without checking them though.
Click to expand...
It was Rebuilt in 91-92, Driven a few years and the owner ended up on the road all the time with his job, so it sat till my budde bought it.

Kinda my thoughts also.....I will pull a valve cover to verify the heads, They do have the "triangle" on the front, so I dont doubt its 040 or 041 heads, my problem is I know NOTHING about either casting......nor a whole lot about the 327.....I must say I am skeptical on the 292 cam, theat seems from my little knowledge, awful steep for this motor....I will say power really does not come in till 3K so mayby it is...

Between the comprssion test and the oil pressure, I am thinking the bottem is good.....That is just a guess but I am a firm beliver in unless you have intentions of changeing something, or have a symptom that would lead you to belive there is a problem, dont go looking for them, you just may cause one by accident!
 
#6 ·
I just finished rebuilding my 327 in my 68 camaro and I put a Lunati cam in it
Part # 401A6LUN. It is a healthy cam but I also have 10.5 to 1 compression ratio which is the lowest I would probably go with that cam. I would stay with a solid cam so you can rev it to the moon if the bottom end is built right.

You should try and find out what compression ratio you have. I also have Edelbrock aluminum RPM heads which I just put on. It sounds pretty good but haven't really got to try it out too much, just setting up timing right and fixing a couple of small leaks. I have 4:56 gears in mine which are pretty low for my liking but I will change them later on.

I do agree with everybody else that you should open it up and find out exactly what you have.
 
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#7 ·
I just feel it would be well worth it to check the bearings knowing what your intending to do with it. Checking them is not that hard and it wont take that long. If you just take your time and pay attention you will feel alot better knowing what ya got. Maybe im just that way but if I didnt build it or atleast been in it and know what I got I m not racin it. But I understand what your saying.
 
#8 ·
First thing you should do is get the casting, date and stamped codes for the heads and block. If the heads came with the engine, 041s only came on 350s. Makes sense to find out what you are starting with before you start changing things. I also think 12 years is a long time on a stand.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
KevinW said:
First thing you should do is get the casting, date and stamped codes for the heads and block. If the heads came with the engine, 041s only came on 350s. Makes sense to find out what you are starting with before you start changing things. I also think 12 years is a long time on a stand.
Click to expand...
I was told they were 350 heads, I am going to pull a cover and see, I really am not worried about the bottem end so much, My buddie has been running it for over a year, no pressure problems. Dont get me wrong, I am not ignoreing it, but I am in planing and bugeting faze for the winter, I have about 3 months to get it all back together....(really not long with a family) I just am really trying to find out as much as I can before I start yanking bolts and busting knuckles.....

Is there a place to get the block casting nuber while in the car? I cant seem to find it.....

I guess I am new here, So Let me ask this, What do you all think of the 041s Vs. Aftermarket and 040s Vs, aftermarket? Looking for 6000 to 6500 max rpm.....and not very often....
 
#10 ·
041s are good stock heads, identical castings as 186 Z/28 heads. They came on SS350/300hp engines. Aftermarkert ones flow better of course. If the heads are late C xx 9 or early D xx 9, I would be interested in them :)

Block casting numbers are on the upper side where bell housing attaches. application codes are stamped on boss under alternator pass side.
 
#12 ·
Not in my books, from a quick search of the web, it looks like a 78-79 head casting. Anything cast in 1978 can't be good flowing :(

Anyone know these heads?

You have to check the rest of your engine. If it is a 1978 350, then it is a low compression smog motor. Gotta do a lot of mods to wake that puppy up.

Oh yea, my 350 300 hp with 9.9 compression (flattops and 041 heads) have compression test readings from 175-180 lbs (freshly rebuilt). Yours are in the 145 range, definetly low compression.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
67 RSS said:
Maybe its a 462624...still a 71-79 cam/corvette or 75-86 lite duty truck with extra manifold bolt hole.
Click to expand...

It could be..... It really looks like an 8 but I cant find it anywhere!

The block casting is 3970010
The date code is E 18 3

Numbers on the front pad on passenger side dont make sence

From Exhaust to intake there are small #s that appear to be 13J283302 then light larger #s that appear to be 10521CK1

These mean anything? anywhere to id crank without pulling block?
 
#15 ·
The block casting is 3970010
The date code is E 18 3

Numbers on the front pad on passenger side dont make sence

From Exhaust to intake there are small #s that appear to be 13J283302 then light larger #s that appear to be 10521CK1

These mean anything? anywhere to id crank without pulling block?[/QUOTE]

Block is 350 69-79 truck, pass,cam,chevelle 2 or 4 bolt...May 18, 1973

front pad likely means assembled May 21...first in list for this stamp usually a letter v=flint, t=tonawanda where engine asm...CK is designation for tranny etc..which I cant decode...there is a crank number on crank..hard to read usually for forged cranks...you will have to pull pan to see it..
 
#16 ·
IMHO, whatever you do, find out what compression you have even if you HAVE to tear it down!!

I have a bad feeling that you have a low-po truck motor, but that the block hopefully has 4-bolt mains??

Bttt, imho again, if you get your CR up above 10 to 1 and PREFEREABLY to 11 to 1, a good old Isky Z-30 solid lifter cam will be a thumper and due to your 4.11 gears, your motor will run like a "scalded-dog"!!!

Just install Isky's recommended valve springs and it will go above 7,000 rpm EASY!!

pdq67

PS., I do want to say that I strongly suggest that you have a full forged rotating assembly at these rpm levels in the 327 motor just like stock back then b/c you will be making more power then stock cast pistons will be able to withstand for very long!!
 
#17 ·
The block casting is 3970010
The date code is E 18 3

13J283302 = 1973 Full size car built in Janesville, Wisconsin

10521CK1 is probably T0521CKL which is a 350/145 horse with TH350.

So it is a low compression 350 engine probably with dish pistons and the heads are from a 78 motor. :(

You would need to raise the compression (aftermarket heads are good choice) and a cam and a 4 bbl.

If you have it rebuilt, put flat top pistons in. Makes your head choice easier. Luck!
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
KevinW said:
The block casting is 3970010
The date code is E 18 3

13J283302 = 1973 Full size car built in Janesville, Wisconsin

10521CK1 is probably T0521CKL which is a 350/145 horse with TH350.

So it is a low compression 350 engine probably with dish pistons and the heads are from a 78 motor. :(

You would need to raise the compression (aftermarket heads are good choice) and a cam and a 4 bbl.

If you have it rebuilt, put flat top pistons in. Makes your head choice easier. Luck!
Click to expand...

Well now I am wondering if it is even a 327.......This is what I was told, It was rebuilt using another block(jives), 350 heads(so that jives), Forged crank and pistons (unknown if flat top of dished), and a .500 lift 292 Crane cam.....

Well at least the bad weather is about here, I think I am going to pull the moter, new heads, Check the cam, and the crank, If its a 350 then screw it, 383 it is.....

What gets me is she runs strong as hell now, as long as its above 2500 and really screams from 3000 to about 6200.......

Ohh well, Its a good thing I enjoy wrenching!

EMC
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
Its go an erson cam sticker, an energy suspension sticker, a Crane cam sticker, Mallory ignition sticker, and a Federal Mogle sticker all under the hood! :thumbsup:

It has the Mallory Ignition, Unilite electronic distributer, and a IV ignition box, and Mallory coil, so at least that sticker is valid!

I cant be to upset, It has a good Edelbrock RPM intake and a brand new(like a month old) Speed demon 650 double pumper carb. and like I said, The ignition is good. So I gotta do heads and maybe a bottom end, isnt that what these cars are for?

I know damn well in a year or two I would be doing it anyhow(well at least the top end!

Thanks for all your help, this really is a great help.....

P.S., I wonder if I got a paxton sticker if I could talk sombody into beliveing it has a superchager to? :clonk:

EMC
 
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EC's 327
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