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I asked the same question here a couple months ago and got several positive responses. Based on that, I ordered a set of motors for my car. I haven't put them on yet, it's a winter project, but they appear to be very nice and a good replacement for the original electric or vacuum system. Mark at retro was very helpful and answered all of my many questions.
 
Hi! - Completed the conversion to electric hideways on my '69 Rally-Sport a couple months ago. They work excellent and in the end they didn't cost me anything. Complete conversion cost $79.00 and I sold one of my left over vacuum pieces for twice that much. Got conversion plans from Ebay for 11.00, but changed the motor mounting slightly to make the install easier. I can provide the details on what I changed if anyone is interested. I figure that is the least I can do to give thanks for all the assistance I have received from everyone on this forum.
 
I just ordered (and received) that same package from ebay! Glad to hear it works out ok, Id be interested to hear what you changed. I also couldnt see $550 for the other kit, thats a little much for whats there. I figure for $11, even if it looks like it wont work, I didnt lose much :)
 
This'll show you how much I know - I didn't even realize the '69 RS had anything that moved! I thought they were just finned!
[LOL]
 
MXQUATTRO - I ran a 1/4-20 tap through the 3 mounting holes on the motors. (I used Chrysler LaBarron motors I bought used for $25 ea. - from a 1987 model, I think) I then threaded 1/4-20 1" long studs into the motor (used Loctite) with about 3/8" sticking out. I then threaded 3/4" long hex stock (with 1/4-20 thread on the inside) onto the loctited studs. What this did was create "stand-off" posts or legs that allowed me to "squarely" mount the motors to the underside of the inner fenders. I cut a little off 1 or 2? of the posts to allow the motors to sit square on the irregular surface of the inner fenders. Spacing the moters down 1/2 - 3/4" also gives you some working space to install the cotter pin thru the drive hex. When you mount the motors in place, if you use low-profile cap screws (down thru from the top of the inner fender) to secure the motors, they will easily clear the door mechanism when they open/close. All hardware items were purchased at the local hardware store. I purchased the double-throw/double pole switch at Radio Shack - $8. When you get them installed, temporalily run leads to your battery and observe how long they take to open and close the doors. This will prevent you from holding the switch in the open or closed position too long and putting an unnecessary load on the motors. Mine take about 1 - 2 seconds to open/close. I did not remove my fender extensions so I used an andle drill to reach up inside to drill the mounting holes. Hope this does not sound to confusing.
 
An important difference is that the Retro-Electro system works without toggle switches. The control box operates the doors when the lights are turned off or on.
 
Mark.
The directions I E-Mailed you are NOT off E-Bay they are what I did to install Firebird motors and control system that works off the headlight switch. no extra switches to operate. The motors are stock 89-92 Firebird components. Please note that if the e-bay ,or my system,were assembled with NEW motors the cost would be in the 100's of dollars. so $500 is not really out of line. I personally enjoy adapting junkyard parts and if necessary I can replace the motor with another many times before it costs more than a new one. I have not had problems with the gears but with how the gears attach to the shaft. This was fixed with $0.40 square cut seals from the hardware store.

TTFN
Mat
 
I'm running Retro-Electro's from Mark and they are the cleanest setup period. I have spent way over his price on this car for stuff that didnt work as advertised or had to be modified to fit. If you look at whats in his system you will see why they cast 500 bucks there are 2 motors, 2 control units and the hardware you need. The driections are great and Mark is available to answer the questions I had. I looked at all the different systems out there and went with his as after research it was what I was looking for clean, minimum mdifications, works with the lights no extra switches. So yes I highly reccomend them and no I dont know Mark other than having alot of praise for him on answering my questions and personally calling to follow up on how they worked.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Thanks for the all the info you guys have given me and I will take it all into consideration when I;m ready for the install. I have no problem walking through the Junk Yard looking for parts and or trying to make things work, But I will tell you with having two twins, building a house ect. I Mark has a full proof systm some times it's earier to just spend the money and save the time.
 
I would also be interested in this solution. Headlights are still a long ways out in the timeline :( but I'm gathering as much info as I can get my hands on right now :)

Jim
 
I'm running Retro-Electro's from Mark and they are the cleanest setup period. I have spent way over his price on this car for stuff that didnt work as advertised or had to be modified to fit. If you look at whats in his system you will see why they cast 500 bucks there are 2 motors, 2 control units and the hardware you need. The driections are great and Mark is available to answer the questions I had. I looked at all the different systems out there and went with his as after research it was what I was looking for clean, minimum mdifications, works with the lights no extra switches. So yes I highly reccomend them and no I dont know Mark other than having alot of praise for him on answering my questions and personally calling to follow up on how they worked.
I agree completely. I have a set of Retro-Electro's in my car. The kit is excellent. Mark is great to deal with. I'm glad I want this route. I was going to go with the Firebird motors but I liked the Retro complete kit better.



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