i have a 67 with a 383 putting out around 550+ horses and i was looking to get the most out of the suspension as possible. I am moving in the rear leafs like 2 inches and deeping the wells by 2 inches and putting subframe connectors and traction bars and polyurethane bushigns all the way around but whats the best way to do it or best brands to get?? I need my suspension pretty stiff for drag but conventional for street. What about tubular A-Arms are they worth it?
67 Stree/strip suspension
Radcannon
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
i have a 67 with a 383 putting out around 550+ horses and i was looking to get the most out of the suspension as possible. I am moving in the rear leafs like 2 inches and deeping the wells by 2 inches and putting subframe connectors and traction bars and polyurethane bushigns all the way around but whats the best way to do it or best brands to get?? I need my suspension pretty stiff for drag but conventional for street. What about tubular A-Arms are they worth it?
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4,908 Posts
Tubular front ends are usually for those who wish to drive in something besides a straight line; they correct geometry errors in the suspension when cornering. If you are mostly street you stay with the stock suspension on the rear and add either CalTracs or slapper traction bars with J-bolts. If you are more strip oriented you go with an adjustable 4-link (or modified 4 link called a 3 link). If you are serious about competition you build a tube chassis ProComp drag car and buy another Camaro to drive on the street.
Larger Dave
Larger Dave
Ditto on the rear but I would also suggest Moroso's drag springs on the front and adjustable shocks on all 4 corners, with 90/10 on the front and 50/50 or 60/40 for the rear as a base line setting.DOUG G said:
As for the tubular A-arms how much do you want to spend to loose @3-5 lbs? A battery relocation kit is @ $100 and moves allot more weight off the front end.
caltracks and posi have nothing that could interfere with each other
here is a link to cal tracks
http://www.calvertracing.com/
and for relocating your leafs, dse sells a kit that comes complete with everything you need to relocate the leafs and minitub (each one is pointless without the other)
http://www.detroitspeed.com/MiniTubKit10.html
here is a link to cal tracks
http://www.calvertracing.com/
and for relocating your leafs, dse sells a kit that comes complete with everything you need to relocate the leafs and minitub (each one is pointless without the other)
http://www.detroitspeed.com/MiniTubKit10.html
Mine is set up like this.
Full poly everywhere;
Jegs bolt-on S/F/C's;
About 500 to 525 pound front coils and about 175 pound rear leaf's;
Slapper-bars;
17" tires all the way around so that you don't have to tub the rear to run a 295 tire in the rear, but you will probably have to install coil-overs to keep the rearend from coming down on the outer sidewalls.;
Stock A-Arms;
1" front and 3/4" rear ADDCO S/B's -- rear S/B is probably over-kill....
The deal about the 17" rims is that the rear lower shock mount is now inside the inner rim of the wheels so that you can back-space a wider rim to be able to better run the 295'S!!! AND not have to mini-tub it UNLESS you still want to????
I personally like the low front and high rear, but then again, I'm "old-school" big-time!! AND I also like my car the other way too, front up and squatting in the back like was also the rage before big-n-littles came into fashion.... Back when I was in highschool in the early to mid '60's just before I ordered my car...
I also have installed my "pdqCBB" set-up that mounts 13" and 11.75" rotors for max. CHEAP braking!!
I honestly figure mine is about the cheapest suspension around b/c I tend ta be a tight-as---, er, eh, "FRUGAL" is all...
pdq67
PS., Oh, btw, late '66 OEM '67 350SS/RS car, 496 BB engine, M-20, 3.31's and posi.......
Full poly everywhere;
Jegs bolt-on S/F/C's;
About 500 to 525 pound front coils and about 175 pound rear leaf's;
Slapper-bars;
17" tires all the way around so that you don't have to tub the rear to run a 295 tire in the rear, but you will probably have to install coil-overs to keep the rearend from coming down on the outer sidewalls.;
Stock A-Arms;
1" front and 3/4" rear ADDCO S/B's -- rear S/B is probably over-kill....
The deal about the 17" rims is that the rear lower shock mount is now inside the inner rim of the wheels so that you can back-space a wider rim to be able to better run the 295'S!!! AND not have to mini-tub it UNLESS you still want to????
I personally like the low front and high rear, but then again, I'm "old-school" big-time!! AND I also like my car the other way too, front up and squatting in the back like was also the rage before big-n-littles came into fashion.... Back when I was in highschool in the early to mid '60's just before I ordered my car...
I also have installed my "pdqCBB" set-up that mounts 13" and 11.75" rotors for max. CHEAP braking!!
I honestly figure mine is about the cheapest suspension around b/c I tend ta be a tight-as---, er, eh, "FRUGAL" is all...
pdq67
PS., Oh, btw, late '66 OEM '67 350SS/RS car, 496 BB engine, M-20, 3.31's and posi.......
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891 Posts
not saying pdq67 is cheap,but sometimes late at night,if i go outside and listen real carefully,i can hear him squeak as he walks around his house! 
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4,908 Posts
I used to run consistent ten teens with Lakewood J-hook style traction bars, 12" compound W Firestone slicks, with 5.13 cogs Eaton posi in a 12 bolt. Hayes 11" long style clutch, M20 trans, powered by a Don Yenko preped L-88 427 with two 660cfm Holleys on top of an Edelbrock tunnelram, fired by a Vertex mag. Used a bottom of the page Crane solid roller kit with oversized Manley valves. Ported and polished heads with a bigger is better philosophy (Yup! I had no idea what I was doing.)
This was in a full bodied Baldwin-Motion Phase Three Camaro with deluxe interior, console, gauges, steel wheels and street tires (weighed in at a svelte 3800 pounds, but I was 180 pounds lighter). No helmet, no roll bar, and bring your own resin and bleach.
Larger Dave
This was in a full bodied Baldwin-Motion Phase Three Camaro with deluxe interior, console, gauges, steel wheels and street tires (weighed in at a svelte 3800 pounds, but I was 180 pounds lighter). No helmet, no roll bar, and bring your own resin and bleach.
Larger Dave
Calvert lists Caltrac's at $339 plus S&H...........
And Summit lists Lakewood's, black, el-cheapo, slappers with the built-in lower plate at $99.88 plus S&H..
That's $239 that I can use to buy other parts with....
And I made mine for like $20 years and years ago!!!!!
pdq67
And Summit lists Lakewood's, black, el-cheapo, slappers with the built-in lower plate at $99.88 plus S&H..
That's $239 that I can use to buy other parts with....
And I made mine for like $20 years and years ago!!!!!
pdq67
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