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JimM

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
While I search the archives, I'll ask and see if I get lucky. Haven't seen anything on reuphoilstering seats since Joe did his...

First question: how the heck do you get the seat back pivots off?
I removed the big e-clip, seems to be some other sort of clip under it and I have no idea how to get that off without killing it.
 
#4 ·
Man, I just keep forgetting Jim.

That strange shaped star washer thing isn't too tough to remove. Put some lube on the shaft and slowely pry or twist it off. I'm sure they're reproduced anyway but I was able to reuse mine. If the prongs get bent, you can flatten them back out.... but as always, be careful because they'll break.

I'll see what I can do about posting some pics. I had over 35 pictures of a complete door assembly from every conceivable angle that I can't seem to find either.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
I did get em off, and even got most of the butt cushion cover off. Had to use a knife on it tho, don't know how the heck the new one's going back on, that plastic peice around the bottom is a bit of a tight fit!

But i did take take wife out for a lobster dinner, so i should get some garage time.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Sometimes I really gotta wonder about this repro stuff. Look at the pics... My original seat buns had a "webbing" sealed into the bottom, and it was hog ringed on separately at the "gap" between the inner part of the seat and the "bolster", wshere the seam in the cover is. Around the edges, the original foam had cloth molded or glued onto it, and it wrapped around the frame and was hog ringed on thru the cloth.

The new foam has neither of these reinforcements. Seems if I attempt to hogring the foam onto the frame like the original was, the rings will just pull right thru the foam.

Do I dare use rings thru the foam alone, or should I just lay it on there and ring the cover on thru it?
 

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Discussion starter · #7 ·
Lets hear from ya, guys... Joe, Brian, anyone else who has done thier own seats?

I got the seatback upholstery and foam separated now. The piano wire thru the seatback burlap is completed rusted. Does it serve a purpose?

From what I've read, it'll be easier to go thru the top with the hog ring pliers to get the seams?

any other tips?
 
#9 ·
I just did my back seat and the passenger seat. The back seat top and bottom was pretty easy, just had to get some padding from the upholstery shop. The passenger seat bottom wasn't bad, though it takes some work to get the plastic seated all the way around. The back of the seat I did 3 times (put it on an then cut all the hogs and did it again). It's pretty good now, but there are still a couple places where it needs to be pulled tighter (if I could only figure out how). Buy a pair of small bolt cutters if you don't have some to cut the hogs. I went through the foam from the top. It's a bitch in some places, there I wired it down when I just couldn't get the ring to connect. One tip, mark the center of the seat and the cover and make sure the first ring is in the middle and dead center. Have fun, it's not a job for the undetermined or inpatient.
 
#10 ·
I just did mine.
I got some upholterers burlap ( has fine wires going through it)
repaired the broken springs with a repair kit I got from a local shop.
also used clips (not hog rings) to attach the foam to the seat.
Also put burlap over springs .
sandwiched the foam between burlap on bottom and guaze meshing on top.(then hog ringed the seat bottoms and tops to the springs)
then waited for wife to complete covers.
she copied the old covers and made new ones out of black leather.
(she is a tailor by trade).
buckets are done at this point and I have to note that I did it the way the upholstery shops do it.
its a pain in the *** the first set you do.
but after that ill be easier.
better yet take the seats and go to a local shop and they will do them for about 125 a seat.
 
#11 ·
Well, the seat back foam I got from Ricks, made by American Cushion Industries, has a fabric that gets pulled around the frame and attached. The originals don't. The seat bottom foam doesn't either. I can't remember if the original foam was attached with fabric around the edges or not, but I remember that it didn't just sit there. It was attached through the springs like you show.

I would NOT try to attach the foam. It'll just rip to pieces. The seat bottom foam just sits there and is more or less held on with the upholstery.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Got the pass side seat bottom done last night...
Used some "burlap type" material I bought at walmart in between the 2 original pieces of burlap to give it some more body. After failing to reach thru the foam with a hog ring several times, I broke down and used zip ties, they worked great. Seat looks good so far.

Tomorrow night will tackle the seat back. Will need to address the rottted wire on that, will probably use zip ties around the center again.
 
#15 ·
Jim, consider putting some 'extra' foam in the lumbar area of your seat back for the long trips coming up. Im having my seat back redone just for that reason. :)
 
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#16 ·
I definitely added polyester batting wherever I could stuff some. Especially in the centers of the bottom and top halves. Then along the sides like Jim said... lumbar.
I did that on the back seat very generously because I obviously had no choice but to use the original padding on the springs\frames. The seat covers come a little 'fat' in certain areas and needed lots of extra padding to fill the covers out.
I think I need to add some more to the back seat. I still haven't finished the drivers bucket yet. It's been sitting on the bench waiting. I started the bottom first and I'm having trouble getting the upholstery seams and inner pulls to match up with the foam just right. Aftermarket stuff is a major pain in the butt. The drivers seat back is the type with the springs in the foam so I saved that for last. We'll see just how much cussing and tool-throwing I can do to make it work. That is... if I don't throw the seat bottom in the trash first and buy a new seat. The passenger bucket was pretty easy comapred to the drivers for some reason. Different foam I think. Why they don't just match their stuff before they ship it is beyond me.
 
#17 ·
I did my whole interior last year, and it was a major chore. My fingers get sore just thinking about it.

I trick I used to help putting the repro covers on was using Zip Ties. I zipped the covers to the frame thru the padding. I would line everything up with the zip ties and slowly pull them into place, then when all was straight (as could get) I would pull the zip ties all the way. Once everything was pulled tight with the zips, then hog rings were easy to put on. I cut the excess of the zips and left them in place as well.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Got the padding stripped off the pass seat back, man it's U-G-L-Y under there. The metal shell is rusty as heck, and the springs are nearly gone. The piano wire in the burlap is gone.

Why in the heck would it rust inside a seat? how?

So... gotta sandblast and paint the shell
order new springs. Should I just get new spring for the drivers seat, too?
It's still together, haven't seen inside it yet.
Where (on the net) can I get the burlap with the wires in it?

Heresa couple pics.
 

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#20 ·
Why in the heck would it rust inside a seat? how?
Click to expand...
I would guess that as a convertible, the top was left down during the rain a number of times. Once water gets inside the plastic covering and can't get back out. My Firebird coupe seats are in nice shape inside except for mold and mildew. The mold makes my interior unusable even though it looks okay.

I talked to the owner of an auto apholstery shop today about the burlap with piano wires and also the soft batting. I think leaving that out will cause the springs to cut through the new ACI cushions. He recommended using jute carpet padding in place of the burlap and padding. He said to hog ring the heavy jute pad directly to the springs. I picked up some jute padding from him and we'll see how this goes when my seat kits arrive.
 
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tired68
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