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What stall converter would you use?

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Ron 67RS

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I want the car to be drivable as possible but still take full advantage of the motors potential.

383 Stroker (10.8:1* Comp Ratio – Designed for 91 Octane)

292I/292E Duration .501I/.501E Lift Rough Idle (471 HP)
parts liste

Aluminum Racing Heads (200cc Intake Runners 2.02I/1.60E)

Crankshaft (Scat Forged 383 Crankshaft) (Forged Crankshaft)

Carburetor (750 Edelbrock)
Distributor (MSD or Pro-Form/Mallory Pro-Curved High Performance HEI with 50,000 Volt Coil)

Manifold (Edelbrock Performer RPM)
Water Long Pump (NAPA) (Aluminum Water Pump)

Fuel Pump (Holly)

Harmonic Balancer (Pioneer 8" Harmonic Balancer with Bolt/Washer


Rods (Scat Forged Rods) (Forged Rods)
 
#3 ·
After running a very similar combo I can tell you that Coan 20306 (10" 3000 stall) was about perfect for my car. Footbraked to 3200 and flashed to 4000 (when it had the flat tappet version of the same cam you are running). It was a little loose below 2000-2200 RPM but very liveable on the street IMO.
 
#5 ·
DOH! You need a different converter for the 700-R4 -- sorry about that.

Try calling Coan directly at 765.456.3957 Tell them that you are looking for a converter with a similar stall to the 20306 (TH350 or TH400 converter). Ask them what they recommend -- they may recommend something different because the 700-R4 is way different than the TH350. The 700-R4 has a much lower 1st gear and has lockup clutches inside (unless you modify the trans to run without lockup)
 
#6 ·
Ron.Can you post back what you came up with Coan?I also have a 700r4.I purchased a 2400 b&m holeshot convertor and it might as well be a stocker.Very disappointed.The 12 inch flashes around 2200 rpm behind my 427 BBC with 3.73 gears and 3260 lbs curb weight.:(
 
#8 ·
What about the check ball in the end of the input shaft? All the non-lockup transmissions out there I have seen have this removed.

There are kits out there to convert lock-up to non-lock up -- there is supposedly a lube and heat issue if you do not make any modifications.
 
#9 ·
I've found that locking the converter in third gear is worth 2 tenths and 3 mph on my car.
 
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Discussion starter · #10 ·
Wow. Thanks for all the information and I will definitly post what I find out. Question. Why do I need to disconnect the high gear to my trans? I'm not interested in racing the vehicle generally but I still want a potent street car. Will I run into problems if I do not disconnect the high gear?
 
#11 ·
If you're just driving on the street, you'll want a lockup converter. One area of concern is the cruising rpm with a large overlap cam. The 700R4 wants to get into OD early and lock up at rpm's lower than your engine is willing to run smoothly at. I use a 9.5" PI Vigilante converter in my 700R4. Yank is another converter to consider.

http://www.converter.com/
http://www.converter.cc/
 
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Discussion starter · #12 ·
spoke to Coan at 765.456.3957. Walker(tech) informed me that the 2400-2600 #90315 would work best for my application. He stated that this converter is 9 incher and cost 595.00 out the door. What do you think?Should I pull the trigger?
 
#14 ·
Hmmmmm . . . . seems a little tight to me too. That would probably work OK though, but it is on the tight end of what I personally would consider for your combo. If driveability is most important to you then go for it, otherwise I'd keep looking.

BTW. Talking to Yank or Vigilante is a good idea. They have a pretty good reputation with the OD stuff.
 
#17 ·
And to add to that,the techs seem to air on the conservative side like they have been coached by lawyers in case you are dissatisfied.I have 3 convertors now.2 on the shelf and 1 in the car.All b&m and not happy.Pay attention to what works as described above by other posters.They give you real world stall speeds that apply and work.I still have 3 months before my next convertor change and trust these folks to steer me in the right direction.Like my best buddy said.He was told that his oval track roller cam will not work on the street.FWIW-this smallie is an animal and now a builder wants to give him free dyno time so he can figure out why it works so good in this application.Shoot for 3200 stall.You will not like the 2400 so called launch.:beers:
 
#20 ·
Ron 67RS said:
Why would that stall speed be a little "tight". Will I not get the full potential of the engine with that stall?
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You want a converter to "flash stall" at an RPM that matches your engine's power band. Usually a converter should stall near an engines peak TQ rpm. For all out drag racing setup you use a converter that will actually flash past peak TQ. For a street converter you can tighten it up some and it will still pull hard, but in your case I would guess your peak TQ is probably up around 4000 RPM -- you want a converter that flashes up closer to 4000 RPM.

Keep in mind that footbrake stall is usually much lower than flash stall (I would guess that converter you listed footbrakes to the advertised RPM and flashes 500-700 rpm higher). Footbrake stall is just what RPM you can hold the engine to while brake TQ'ing the car. Flash stall is the RPM that the engine jumps to when you nail the gas and have perfect traction (I usually test this in third gear on the freeway). I would like to see a converter for your car that footbrakes to around 3000 and flashes to around 4000.

I hope that helps -- and of course this is just my opinion. ;)
 
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Eric68
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