Team Camaro Tech banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

Trunk Surface rust

Jump to Latest
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
#23 ·
Found the old thread with name and number, not sure he is still there. Its called Death Metal I thought Death Mat but here is the contact info. :

Eric Gulas (423) 855-3726
Long Mercedes Benz Parts Dept.
PO Box 25075
Chattanooga, TN 37422-5075
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#24 ·
they call it dum-dum or 3m weather strip caulk stips. Any good auto paint store has them.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#25 ·
Discussion starter · #26 ·
Geez: Everyones pics look so good. So many choices of which way to go. I really appreciate everyone's input. Fortunately the rust in my trunk isn't very bad at all so it should come out okay as long as I prep well. I really like the idea of stripping completely and going with POR 15 but I do not like the idea of rinsing with water like the directions say.
Image
Image


Trax: What prep did you do to use the Chassis Saver? Did you just wire brush and then put the Chassis Saver down? How was it to paint over?

Kyle, your trunk came out great Thanks again for sending the pics to me at my work email.

Thanks to all for you help. I am still open to many suggestions. This will be my first significant work to the body of any car so I am worried about doing it right.

Mark
 
#27 ·
I did the topside of the floor and hatch area on my 74 Nova with POR-15 after wire wheeling down to the original metal. So far no problems and I did not topcoat it with anything as it's getting covered anyway. I have in other spots dusted a paint on top of it when it gets tacky and it too so far has been fine.

On relations Dart I took a different approach. I stripped the floor and trunk topside with wire wheels but on this one I applied an epoxy primer (Omni brand). The trunk floor had some pits that wire wheeling did not take out the rust so I applied some naval jelly, let it sit a while, scrubbed the pits with a small fine wired brush and then sprayed some water on the spot and scrubbed it some more and took a rag and wiped up the water and naval jelly residue. I then came back with some compressed air to blow it dry. Since I knew the pits would not be filled with just one or two coats of epoxy primer I shot 2 wet coats on and let it dry. A few days later I came back and sanded the area where the pits were at and shot some more primer to fill them up a tad more. It sat again for a few days until I could come back and sand it again and if I sanded it and the pits were gone I quit. Later when I go to put on a final color coat I have to sand the primer as it will be out of it's recoat window. If I stayed withing a particular time frame I could have shot the final color over it and skipped a sanding step BUT my concern was getting it sealed up as well as other spots on the car that had bare metal.

After sanding the first coats of paint the pits were still visible:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2952452460060464735BNcsIp

After the second coats were sanded down and a light third coat applied:
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2193537200060464735wpgHNy

What I started with (it wasn't pretty but it's better now):
http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2075521770060464735FULKQD

If you don't have access to spraying equipement I wonder if a person could mix up a small batch of epoxy primer and then use a foam brush to apply it.

Jim
 
#28 ·
mstehle said:
Geez: Everyones pics look so good. So many choices of which way to go. I really appreciate everyone's input. Fortunately the rust in my trunk isn't very bad at all so it should come out okay as long as I prep well. I really like the idea of stripping completely and going with POR 15 but I do not like the idea of rinsing with water like the directions say.
Image
Image


Trax: What prep did you do to use the Chassis Saver? Did you just wire brush and then put the Chassis Saver down? How was it to paint over?

Kyle, your trunk came out great Thanks again for sending the pics to me at my work email.

Thanks to all for you help. I am still open to many suggestions. This will be my first significant work to the body of any car so I am worried about doing it right.

Mark
Click to expand...
Mark,
At 1st I used a drill and wirebrush. Then I started usung a parts cleaner and a metal ready type of spray that I bought at the Englishtown car show here in NJ.. Its basically the same as metal ready. It is an etching type of acid spray which leaves a phosphorus type coating. I do wet a rag and run it over the pannel afterwards but dy it instantly and use a heatgun to dry out any moisture in the nooks and crannys. I let it dry for a day or so then I used the chassis saver. The instructions say just get offloose rust and oil and paint. I did it both ways and its still hard as a rock and adheres great.

I did go overboard on most of the stuff I repaired on my car but thats cause I dont want to cut it up and do it again. I pretty much did a major pannel replacement on my camaro.

Topcoat after it dries to a slightly tacky finish or you will have to scuff it to topcoat.

I'll let you know in 40 years if my 67 held up as good as the rustproofing at the factory did :)
 
#29 ·
Mark,

Your trunk looks pretty good. (Should be easy fix) What ever you decide, I'm sure it will come out great.

My car is just going to be a driver, so I didn't go thru the trouble to fill or sand any dents or pits and the splatter made about 70% of them dissappear. You can see in the photos the difference between the rust encapsulator and splatter paint & how it hid the dents. Mainly, I was just impressed with eastwoods splatter paint & wanted to let others know how good it works and how easy it is to use. Like I said, my car is never going to be a show car, but I just wanted to stop the rust and make it a little more presentable, and it came out much better than I anticipated. (When I was finished with it all I could do is stand and stare at it for another 30 minutes & listen to the angels singing)

One more thing. I used a wire brush on a drill at first, then tried wire brush on a 4" grinder and it was much more effective.

Also this website sure is a great place to learn and get lots of ideas. I've learned so much reading post on here. Thanks to all.
 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
607 said:
Thanks for the information. I ditto the the fact the this site is a big help.:thumbsup:
Click to expand...
I agree 100%. This site absolutely ROCKS :hurray: :yes: :cool: You guys are the best. Helpful, supportive, funny, smart. If you weren't guys you'd make great wives lol

Mark
 
21 - 31 of 31 Posts
About this Discussion
30 Replies
11 Participants
Last post:
mstehle
Team Camaro Tech
posts
2.4M
members
90K
Since
1998
A forum community dedicated to 1st generation Chevy Camaros owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about performance, builds, restoration, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, reviews, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Bench Racing Engine Body Shop Performance Brakes, Suspension & Steering