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Frustrated with carburetor.

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ck 2

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I had my quadrajet rebuilt by Cliff Ruggles in Ohio. He has a good reputation with Quadrajets. But mine is running rich. It smokes when you start it like it's flooding. The fumes are so strong you smell like gas all day after being around this car.

I called him and he said if I can run the idle mixture screws in and kill the motor then it's performing correctly. He blames it on my cam having a 110 LSA. The car blows black condensation out the pipes when it's running. I'm really frustrated with this carb. Any suggestions?
 
#2 ·
Sorry about your frustration. When does it happen, right after start up, after it has warmed up or both? Does the condition change as the car gets warmer? Did it happen before installing this carburetor?
 
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#5 ·
If the carb guy didn't tune the carb on the engine he can only get it so close based on info given. Give the carb the benefit of doubt that it just needs some tuning along with the rest of the engine. Were you able to stall out the engine closing the idle mixture screws? What about the rest of the bolt-ons - distributor, plugs, plug wires, pcv valve, breathers and even intake manifold?
 
#9 ·
Sounds like the little brass power valve in front of carb is stuck or needs to be adjusted . There is a tubed hole in front of carb, that piston can be seem or should be seen from there. Might ask your carb man if its adjustable. It will have affect on idle.
 
#10 ·
If you are seeing fuel out of the booster nozzles at idle, - even a drip, your float level is way too high.

Is your fuel pressure in the normal range? Do you have a fuel filter in the line or at least the stock filter? Something might be in the needle and seat. Even a hair can cause trouble.
David
 
#11 ·
davidpozzi said:
If you are seeing fuel out of the booster nozzles at idle, - even a drip, your float level is way too high.

Is your fuel pressure in the normal range? Do you have a fuel filter in the line or at least the stock filter? Something might be in the needle and seat. Even a hair can cause trouble.
David
Click to expand...

David has a point I forgot to mention, some of these Qjets have the plastic foam float and they go sometimes get soggy and absorb fuel, the brass can over time do the same. Thus they no longer float to close off needle and seat. Just have to check. Another thing I just rememered,,, the fuel bowls that attach to the base plate, have a set of lead pluggs in the bottom,, they have been known to leak. The old day fix was to seal them with JB weld or Hygrade made a little rubber that fit in the base plate well and sealed them.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Well the guy who rebuilt this carb said he drills out, plugs and epoxies the plugs in the base plate.

As for the nozzle drip. It doesn't drip until you run the idle mixture screws way in. Most quadrajets I have seen will do this when you run the screws in really far.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
I'm about fedup with this thing.

Does anyone know of a good alternative to the quadrajet? I would like to find something that will bolt right on and use the existing fuel lines, throttle and tranny cables if possible.
 
#14 ·
have you tried pulling the timing ahead some? or running the vacuum advance to full manifold vacuum instead of ported to give it more timing at idle?
how much fuel pressure are you running? if it's too high, it will cause the float level to rise up- which leads to the nozzle drip and a really rich condition.
 
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Discussion starter · #16 ·
novaderrik said:
have you tried pulling the timing ahead some? or running the vacuum advance to full manifold vacuum instead of ported to give it more timing at idle?
how much fuel pressure are you running? if it's too high, it will cause the float level to rise up- which leads to the nozzle drip and a really rich condition.
Click to expand...
I have tried advancing the timing. Bumping it up to the point it gets hard to start. I have run the vacuum both ways.

I'm not sure about the fuel pressure. It's a stock fuel pump with the factory inline filter along with the filter in the carb. It also has the return line to the tank.

The nozzle drip goes away when the screws are backed out about a turn.
 
#18 ·
ck 2,

Do you have another carb to try out? I don't think you should have to TOUCH this carb if you paid to have it done. In fact, I suggest you don't touch it cause then the rebuilder will blame you for messing it up.

If you can borrow any carb from one of your buddies, you will quickly reveal wheather or not it is the carb's fault.
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
The plugs are black.

I agree I shouldn't have to mess with the carb. But after a long conversation with the guy who built it he says if I can kill the engine with the idle mixture screws then it's working properly.

I wish I had another carb to try but I don't. I'm almost to the point of buying one just to try it.
 
#20 ·
CK;

Have you asked the carb builder if you could send it back to him to take another look at it? It may be something really simple that got overlooked during the build. Honest mistakes happen now & then, and the builder should have no issue with taking another look at it for you.

BTW, was this a stock calibration rebuild, or a performance rebuild?

Eric
 
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