ok when i turn my key i get nothing, battery is new as well as the alternator the starters only a year old. I think it is the stater relay b/c its not making the noise that it would make if it was making. do you all have any other suggestions i would greatly appreciate it.
Car won't start: Troubleshooting starter relay, battery, and alternator issues.
Buddy_Lee
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ok when i turn my key i get nothing, battery is new as well as the alternator the starters only a year old. I think it is the stater relay b/c its not making the noise that it would make if it was making. do you all have any other suggestions i would greatly appreciate it.
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22,190 Posts
If you can get in there... If you take a screwdriver and use it to connect the big lug on the starter solenoid (where the battery cable connects) to the inside small lug (closest to the bolock) the starter will engage and the car will turn over.
I'd recommend you tape off all but the last inch of the screwdriver. Note that when you make the connection, it will make a large spark. This, accompanied by the engine suddenly cranking over, tends to cause guys to freak somewhat.
Alternatively, you can but a remote start switch for about $10, and hook it to the same 2 terminals. Less change of shorting things out or freaking.
Test will prove the battery and starter work.
Problem could also be the ignition switch or the neutral safety switch. One thing to try (WITH FOOT FIRMLY ON BRAKES!!) is to put the gearshift in neutral, twist the key, and move the shifter a bit toward reverse, then drive, see if you can find the "sweetspot" in the switch if it's misadjusted.
I'd recommend you tape off all but the last inch of the screwdriver. Note that when you make the connection, it will make a large spark. This, accompanied by the engine suddenly cranking over, tends to cause guys to freak somewhat.
Alternatively, you can but a remote start switch for about $10, and hook it to the same 2 terminals. Less change of shorting things out or freaking.
Test will prove the battery and starter work.
Problem could also be the ignition switch or the neutral safety switch. One thing to try (WITH FOOT FIRMLY ON BRAKES!!) is to put the gearshift in neutral, twist the key, and move the shifter a bit toward reverse, then drive, see if you can find the "sweetspot" in the switch if it's misadjusted.
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42 Posts
My 91 firebird did this and it ws the fuel pump.
I beleave the test that jim gave you was to just verify the starter and solionoid. If you jumped the starter and it cranked over but did not start then the starter is good. You need to look out why you are not getting any power to the little terminal on the starter.
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45 Posts
Car does nothing when you turn the ignition?
Does fuel pump "prime" when you turn the ignition to "on"?
All the lights and gauges work when key is "on".
Do some research on VATS. Could be key...could be the VATS system. If you have ruled out other usual eletrical items such as battery, solenoid, etc.
Some people have problems with the actual key, not reading the right resistance and activating the VATS system. I had a problem with VATS itself, was reading the right resistance on the key. Had to bypass the starter relay to get car to turn over. Still wouldn't fire because VATS still activated by the computer, wouldn't send signal to injectors for fuel. I had to buy some prom burning equipment and turned off VATS in the computer. Worked fine after that.
Does fuel pump "prime" when you turn the ignition to "on"?
All the lights and gauges work when key is "on".
Do some research on VATS. Could be key...could be the VATS system. If you have ruled out other usual eletrical items such as battery, solenoid, etc.
Some people have problems with the actual key, not reading the right resistance and activating the VATS system. I had a problem with VATS itself, was reading the right resistance on the key. Had to bypass the starter relay to get car to turn over. Still wouldn't fire because VATS still activated by the computer, wouldn't send signal to injectors for fuel. I had to buy some prom burning equipment and turned off VATS in the computer. Worked fine after that.
friend of mine said it could be the 5spd starter neutral switch so i looked under the car to find it the haynes repair book said it was 1yellow and 1 purple wire runing to an input i found them disconnected(came loose i guess) but he said that it would start in gear then tried it (still nothing at all) does anyone know wear it plugs into b/c i couldnt find it
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1,163 Posts
there should be a female plug on the tranny case for your wire...you could also jump it out with a jumper wire...just for test purposes, ofcourse...always fix it correctly, given the option...
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1,163 Posts
connect the 2 wires in the connector with a jumper wire, and then turn the key...and i think the connector might be on the top of the trans, but not sure...been a long time since workin on a t5...
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1,163 Posts
when all else fails, put a pushbutton on the purple wire...lol...that is the momentary wire to the solenoid...
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1,902 Posts
the neutral switch isnt on the tranny. it is on the clutch petal on a 89 camaro. thats why you cant find the wires.
its a t5
i know this might sound weird but if any of yall have a t5 w/ a hydraulic clutch could u get under ur car for me and look where the tranny is. there should be a plastic wrapping around 2 sets of wires. one for the back up lights and a yellow and purple set could u tell me where the yellow and purple set go to on ur car b/c thats wht came undone on mine
i know this might sound weird but if any of yall have a t5 w/ a hydraulic clutch could u get under ur car for me and look where the tranny is. there should be a plastic wrapping around 2 sets of wires. one for the back up lights and a yellow and purple set could u tell me where the yellow and purple set go to on ur car b/c thats wht came undone on mine
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1,163 Posts
buddy, i just pulled the wiring diag for your car, and the yellow and purple wires go to a switch on the clutch pedal...i dont know how they got down by the tranny, but the switch is supposed to be on the pedal under the dash...the diag i`m using is in the hayes manual for your reference...page 10-14...hope this helps...
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