Hi.Ive got a 350 block that i was thinking of stroking to 383.At the moment the bores are at 30 thou.Dropped the block at the shop today to get checked and the machinist said the bores may have to go to 60 thou.Anyway i was just wanting to get opinions if this block is worth working with or not.Thanks for any help.
350 Overbore Advice.
brendan 67
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Hi.Ive got a 350 block that i was thinking of stroking to 383.At the moment the bores are at 30 thou.Dropped the block at the shop today to get checked and the machinist said the bores may have to go to 60 thou.Anyway i was just wanting to get opinions if this block is worth working with or not.Thanks for any help.
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4,908 Posts
Thinner the bore the hotter the motor runs. As the heat that is supposed to make the rear tires turn escapes through the thinner cylinder bores.
350 four bolt main blocks are still cheap enough to find. You need to check the truck salvage yards for a medium duty truck as it will have a higher nickel content than a passenger car block, four bolt mains and all forged internals. Who knows you may want to make a high reving 355 out of it with a standard forged steel crank and rods.
Larger Dave
350 four bolt main blocks are still cheap enough to find. You need to check the truck salvage yards for a medium duty truck as it will have a higher nickel content than a passenger car block, four bolt mains and all forged internals. Who knows you may want to make a high reving 355 out of it with a standard forged steel crank and rods.
Larger Dave
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104 Posts
Thanks for the replies guys.The machinist was 50/50 wether the block would be 40 or 60 over till he measured it properly.I think if he says 60 ill forget about that block.Blocks under 30 or 40 are very hard to find over here.Might look at crate engines or maybee even rebuild the original 327.If i got sonic tested what would be a good cylinder wall thickness at 60 thou.Thanks.
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Sorry didn't see your location in the greater scheme of things. Rather than a crate motor, I would think about a Dart Little "M" block. If I remember correctly you guys pay less duty on service/repair parts than you do on finished goods (such as an assembled motor). If you have all of the parts and just need a block I would have one shipped in. Also considering the scarcity of good blocks you might have to work with what you have (here they grow on trees, compared to your location). Even a couple of sleeves might be an option.
Larger Dave
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If you've still got the 327, why not use that block? A 350 and a 327 have the same bore (4"). I don't know if they make a 3.75" crank with small journals if you have a small journal block, though. I don't remember what year they switched the 327s to the larger journals ('68 I believe).
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That's what I was gonna say!
My stock bore original 327 seemed an ideal candidate, so we bored her .030 and shoved a long arm in.
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63-67 are the small journal 327's...
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If your dealing with a good shop they should be able to sonic test the cylinders for thickness and the ones we have used a .060 over that have sonic tested good we rally have had no over heating issues.
Hell we got a Bowtie block thats 4.195 over and it runs tha same temp as all the other engines we build HMMMMMMMMM
Hell we got a Bowtie block thats 4.195 over and it runs tha same temp as all the other engines we build HMMMMMMMMM
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104 Posts
Thanks for all of the replies everyone.I will get the block at the shop tested.The 327 in the camaro is a small journal and ive heard of a company in the US called SpeedoMotive that does a small journal 383 kit so that is another option.If either of those dont work out i will look at importing a new block.I wish we had smallblocks growing on trees over here.
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I'm a little late to this thread, but FWIW, I myself had a 350 4 bolt main bored to .060 on a mild 300-320 h.p. daily driver, living in Phx, AZ (hot) and had no problems. Drove & hammered on it for a good 5 years and it was fine when I sold it. I'd say sonic check, and if it's got enough, go for it!
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104 Posts
Thanks for the comment.Got my block back yesterday and it bored out at .040, so im
.Can't you just cut the main journals on the 400 crank to fit the small journal block? Like cutting a 400 crank to fit a medium journal block?
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The only problem you will run into is the oil holes will end up in the radius of the crank journal
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If that block bored .040 over and is good plus you are using the same crank that you were going to use to stroke it to a 383, I have bad news! It is going to be even more than a 383! Dang the luck!
See what both Speed-O-Motive and Ohio crankshaft Company have to offer???
I know S-O-M has stroked 327 stuff here.....
http://www.speedomotive.com/ps-30-8-327-small-journal-383cid-kit.aspx
but I don't know about OCC?
http://www.ohiocrank.com/sbcCranks.html
I guess not??
pdq67
I know S-O-M has stroked 327 stuff here.....
http://www.speedomotive.com/ps-30-8-327-small-journal-383cid-kit.aspx
but I don't know about OCC?
http://www.ohiocrank.com/sbcCranks.html
I guess not??
pdq67
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