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nikkisdad

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
OK, it is far from pristine, but it has the factory paint and interior, it does have rust around rear wheel lips only. No rust in doors, floors, front fenders, just the bit of outer edge on rear. I started to restore the car back in 1985, had the bumpers chromed, motor is done, and it is a running car. I put 4.88 gears in the 12 bolt, with a Moroso Posi, I put in a scatter shield, it is chromed, it has the very old school Hays electronic distributor and the Corvette tach drive shaft they used on these back then. It has roller rockers, and a Tarantula manifold. It still is using the DZ 780 Holley from factory, I put in a Borg Warner trans. If I were to look around, I could maybe find all the factory pieces, intake, muncie, and such. I did run it a couple of times, and it was 12.40's @ around 110 MPH will small slicks, Utah altitude, no subframe conectors, just old school traction bars. I really did not run it much at all, lost interest after my buddy John died. Right now the car has Centerlines and TA tires that were bought back in 1985, so they are not safe at all, even though they look new. Interior is complete, holes cut for speakers, more old school, it needs a new carpet kit, but all seals, and such are still like new. Steering wheel looks new, as radio and dash. I was wondering what a car like this is worth. I have a friends boy bugging me, I know they could buy it cash wise, but I definately would not want to give it away, just fair. Thanks for any advice, Mike. I just remebered, there are a couple of pictures on page 3 of this bunch of the car, the speedometer, and the old school art trunk on this 68. http://s12.photobucket.com/albums/a218/Camaro427/L89/
 
Mike's talking about the blue 68 on page 3.

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I know you mentioned the Muncie is not in the car, but is the motor the original? If so, with just under 4,600 L78 cars in 68, it seems like this car would bring just a little less than a 69 L78 in same condition. $35K? $40K? Hard to pin down with the market the way it is.
 
If I were looking at buying the car before I figured on a price I'd want to know how much it was going to cost to repair the corrosion first, is it going to require full quarters or would patches work better? It would definitely increase the dollar value if the car came with all of the original equipment that was removed. Do you have all of the documents for the 68 like you do for the 69?
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
No documents, just the factory paint and original miles. The car was bought from the original owner in 1971, by Alan Kaiz###, a friend of mine in high school. We had fun with it until it was run off the road and damaged the front end suspension. With high school budjets the car sat until 1978, with Alan buying multiple factory parts, and aftermarket parts with the hopes of putting it back on the street. in 1978 I got a phone call from him asking if I still wanted to buy the car. I imediately said yes, and got it and all the parts for 1,500.00. I had no idea he was desparate for money because he had a drug problem. At any rate I started in my spare time to assemble the car, and had it at my friend Johns shop in 1985 getting ready to finish it. While it was there, John died suddenly, and I brought the car home, never worked on it again. Thats where the story on the blue L89 comes in, the widow offered it to me for only 3,000.00 and I just could not buy it, due to the emotions of loosing John. But back to the original question, this car is as real as it gets, packed away year after year. As far as rust, there is absolutely no need for quarters, it is just in the rear wheel lips because Alan put on some stainless mud flaps way back then, and lets just say he used too many screws, and the car was drove in a few Utah winters. Other than that there is absolutely no rust. I will try to get good pictures, but it is snowing here, and I have boxes packed around the car.
 
But back to the original question, this car is as real as it gets, packed away year after year.
I think you went back to the original question, and swerved hard to avoid it.

I especially like the (I am paraphrasing here) "It has absolutely no rust, other than the rust is has" part.

I am not trying to give you a hard time here, but if you really want an estimate of what it's worth, you need to provide better pictures and component casting numbers/stamped codes.

Otherwise, it's worth from 10K-40K, Maybe more, maybe less.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
I think you went back to the original question, and swerved hard to avoid it.

I especially like the (I am paraphrasing here) "It has absolutely no rust, other than the rust is has" part.

I am not trying to give you a hard time here, but if you really want an estimate of what it's worth, you need to provide better pictures and component casting numbers/stamped codes.

Otherwise, it's worth from 10K-40K, Maybe more, maybe less.
You are right, and I will attempt pictures before I try to go further.
 
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