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68 suspension setup

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68roller

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I am a rusty member that needs help choosing the right suspension and ride height combination on a 68 coupe. I have done many searches and not found the answers yet. The car is recovering from total restoration. No front clip, motor or wheels yet. I would like to set it up for above average cornering by todays standard (if possible) before installing the clip.

Here are some details:
68 coupe with all steel sheetmetal
small block with iron heads and ac
DSE upper c/a
stock lower c/a
delrin bushings
QA1 front coilovers with 450lb
stock spindles
Hotchkis sway bars
Wilwood disc all around
NO tub kit
interior will be stock with upgraded skins
stock multileaf springs (now)

I would like to use 17" wheels. I am thinking about
Front 17x8 (4.75 bs) with 245_40 tires
Rear 17x9.5 (5.5 bs) with 275_40 tires

Will these wheels/tires work without rubbing
Which rear spring (rate/drop ") do you recommend
Will the QA1s provide the correct height without a drop spindle
Any rear shock recommendations
Any recommendation on alignment settings
What should be the final front and rear fender height above the ground

Does someone have this car setup that can send pictures too.
The idea is to keep the sheetmetal stock although I will consider
rolling the front and rear inside fender edge if required.

Thanks,
"Rusty"
 
#3 ·
You'll have better luck asking Suspension questions in the Suspension forum, and Wheel/Tire questions in the Wheels & Tires forum.
 
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#5 ·
Hotchkis leafs on the rear will work well. Your front coils are much softer than the Hotchkis coils which are 600. Your tire sizes may require more front spring rate if you intend on driving the car very hard.
You can fit those tires if you have the correct wheel backspace.
what horsepower will you have?
David
 
#6 ·
I'll take a crack at this.
"Will these wheels/tires work without rubbing" - Yes they should
"Which rear spring (rate/drop ") do you recommend" - DSE 3" drop (rate is 175# I believe)
"Will the QA1s provide the correct height without a drop spindle" - They should
"Any rear shock recommendations" - QA1s
"Any recommendation on alignment settings" - Check with DSE or David Pozzi's site
"What should be the final front and rear fender height above the ground" - you need at least 4" of ground clearence - there are too many variables to give you fender height. If everything goes right you want the top of the tire to be near the wheel opening. If it was a -69 (the wheel openings are shaped different you would want the top of the tire above the wheel opening).
"Does someone have this car setup that can send pictures too." - I can't help you there but go over to www.lateral-g.net and there are lots of 1st gen Camaros to look at with specs so you can get an idea of what you like.
"The idea is to keep the sheetmetal stock although I will consider
rolling the front and rear inside fender edge if required." - You shouldn't have too.
I am far from an expert but I hope I at least got you started. I'm also assuming all the parts you listed you already have. You may have to make adjustments to get the ride height your looking for. In the front I believe you are very limited due to the coil overs so you are limited to the adjustment that the shock body provides. In the rear you may have to play with a 1" lowering block (you don't want more than that) to get the car level but that remains to be seen. If you spend enough time on these forums you will see you need to expect the unexpected. These cars are all alittle different and what works on one may not on another. Good luck with your project.
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Thanks David and Jack for the response and valuable info. As for the motor/hp we have given this much thought. Since the car will see mostly agressive street(tread) with some track time and the rear tire size is limited, we decided to limit the motor at roughly 550-600 hp / 500Tq (383 roller) with 3.27 first gear. I like the track time but the FINE paint wont like the flying rocks during bumper to bumper racing. Do you think the heavy car with this supension and tires will push well before it flexes the suspension. I am concerned that the rear suspension may have too much lateral shift but I want to keep the leafs. Right now it has factory 5leaf springs that I am considering de-arching to a symmetric and measured 3" drop. I am thinking the 5leafs will twist LESS in hard turns. I am considering setting up a simple jig to measure/tune the spring rate on each half. I would remove the springs, set them up on the ground(bushings down on teflon sliders) and measure the arch. Then add weight and measure. Heat and tune as needed. What do you think?
 
#8 ·
I think you would be better off with the Hotchkis or DSE springs. You will have a hard time getting both sides equal and besides that I don't think you will have enough spring rate when you're done. The Hotchkis rear springs say 1.5" drop I believe but each car winds up sitting a little different. David likes them because not only do the work good but they are lighter also (less weight back there is a good thing). The DSE springs will do the job and they offer a 3" drop again a little different on each car but they are heavier (more leaves I believe). As I stated above I am by no means an expert. David IS! Read up there is tons of info on this stuff - your head will spin before your anywhere near done.
 
#9 ·
jack,
Thanks for your input and compliments.

68roller, I think you need much stiffer front coils, and use the Hotchkis rear leaf springs, they are very good with treaded street tires or even occasional race rubber. I'm not against GW or DSE leafs, just I'm more familiar with the Hotchkis leafs. They are all around the same rate. On the track the GW cat 5 leafs would be nice but they are in the 240 range where the others are 175.

With the HP you will have, you need better front springs. Global West has stiffer front coil springs for the QA1 shocks. with 450's and that much power, you will have excess rear squat due to the excess front lift.

You can tape up your car in the areas rocks will hit. Most guys use the blue masking tape. Some get quite creative with it.

Some rear wheel well lip trimming and rolling is a good idea. CarlC has fit 275's all around in 17" wheel size. http://www.geocities.com/casanoc/
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Hotchkis leafs seem the reputible choice. Since the Hotchkis rear springs only lower about 1.5" vs DSE 3", can you comment on lowering blocks vs de-arching of leaf springs. Which method holds up better on the track and is less likely to flex or break. The multisprings are de-arched while assembled. BTW, great article on the 68. The radiator rock guard will be included.
 
#11 ·
68roller said:
Since the Hotchkis rear springs only lower about 1.5" vs DSE 3", can you comment on lowering blocks vs de-arching of leaf springs.
Click to expand...
I can't comment on dearching the springs but I will tell you that you really need to keep a lowering block to 1". If you use a lowering block you NEED a good one. Do not use the hollow cast ones. They are junk and they crack. Get a solid billet lowering block. If you can't find them you can make them out of solid billet stock (ask me how I know). Don't forget all these cars are a little different and you may not need to use them in the 1st place. David is right (then again he always is) you need a higher rate front spring. So you have to look into that. You may be able to exchange what you have. One last thing did you consider wrapping you paint in that new "clear shield"? Check out Steve Rupp's car over at Popular Hotrodding. He has his new painted protected with it. I believe 3M makes it. It does do the job.
 
#12 ·
Don't believe the amount of drop they list. I'd find someone with a similar car and spring and ask them the wheel well lip to axle center dimension.

The Hotchkis leafs were a bit low on our 73, A common second gen issue, but most first gen guys are happy with them.

You shouldn't use over a 1" lowering block, it can allow the axle more leverage over the leaf and wrap up becomes more of an issue.
There is a lot of science in good leaf spring design, that's why I don't recommend you trying to build up a leaf package by yourself. The Hotchkis are going to be on the low end of what you should use on your car, but anything stiffer is going to be a bit too rough for street use and you aren't going to notice the difference unless you open track a LOT, drive the car very hard and with slicks.
David
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
I will look into existing 68's with the Hotchkis leaf springs. I might have to wait until the car is fully assembled before deciding on the springs and drop amount since Hotchkis is limited to 2.5" total drop for track cars. Anybody reading with this setup, please ring in. Also some great leads on billet blocks and clear skin. Clear Skin sounds like a great idea. I will check to see how it lives upto the heat, wind and oil smoke from cars you are about to pass on the track. I haven't been on this site for awhile. I look to checking in more often. I appreciate the help.
 
#14 ·
I have Hotchkis springs on all four corners. I have a 1" block in the rear. I have ATS spindles up front which have about 1" of drop in them. I want the front a tad lower...

25.5" tires on all four corners.

Image
 
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#16 ·
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#17 ·
Steve what are your measurements center of wheel to fender lip on the front and rear? Thanks!
 
#18 ·
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#19 ·
Looking though old posts to upgrade my suspension and steering .Will post on this later.It seems to me Steve that with the 1in drop from the ats spindles and the 2in drop springs you should be about 2in lower even without settling?Are your springs positioned correctly in the pockets?
 
#20 ·
Stainless dog said:
Looking though old posts to upgrade my suspension and steering .Will post on this later.It seems to me Steve that with the 1in drop from the ats spindles and the 2in drop springs you should be about 2in lower even without settling?Are your springs positioned correctly in the pockets?
Click to expand...
Springs are in correctly. I too was suprised the front wasnt a bit lower. Here it is with a 225.50.16 tire. Looks a bit lower.

Image


and here with the 245/40/18

Image
 
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