Change oil and prime system
Flush tank, lines, and carb to clean system
While there, I would check/change all fluids due to sitting so long.
Then you should be OK to start.

 

So let me understand this....you're concerned about damage to the cam and lifters but don't want to remove the distributor to prime the oil system, after the engine hasn't run in 10 years?
I'd be more concerned about bearing wear issues and rocker arms beating the crap out of the pushrods, while waiting for oil to eventually flow to the lifters and push rods, and then allow the metal particles to flow with the oil back down into the engine..but thats just me.

 

So let me understand this....you're concerned about damage to the cam and lifters but don't want to remove the distributor to prime the oil system, after the engine hasn't run in 10 years?
I'd be more concerned about bearing wear issues and rocker arms beating the crap out of the pushrods, while waiting for oil to eventually flow to the lifters and push rods, and then allow the metal particles to flow with the oil back down into the engine..but thats just

 

If you don't want to pull the distributor remove the plugs, remove valve covers and turn over till you have oil at the rockers. Not ideal vs priming with the proper tool but it should get oil circulating and up top.

 

Thankyou, I guess you’re right. I’ve never pulled the dust. and primed the lifters before. Just didn’t want to mess with what the timing was set on

 

Just mark the rotor and housing to the intake in 2 separate spots to keep the alignment correct when putting it backing. An air powered drill will do you best if you have one and an air compressor to back it up. My friends 69 took 10 minutes to fill all the push rods to rocker arms. The juice is worth the squeeze. Where are you in the states?

 

Most Autozone stores have a oil primer that they will loan to you, just have to leave a deposit, usually the cost of the item.

In regards to timing, mark the distributor body where number one terminal on the distributor cap is located, usually lacquer thinner and Sharpie works. Remove the spark plugs and distributor cap and rotate the engine by hand (using the crank bolt) to where the rotor lines up with the mark on the distributor body, this should be your initial timing. Check the harmonic balancer and note what the timing is. The next step is the mark the intake manifold to the distributor body, I used a center punch to mark the intake manifold and the distributor body. When you reinsert the distributor and line up all three, you'll be in the ballpark and the engine should start. You should use a timing light to verify your timing.
After using the oil primer, there is a slot on the oil pump that needs to align with the distributor, if not aligned the distributor won't engage the pump and will not sit flush with the intake manifold. Some people can "walk" the distributor around to align the oil pump and distributor, some just use a long flat bladed screwdriver to adjust the alignment on the oil pump. It can be frustrating especially while leaning over the fender adding to the difficulty of inserting the distributor.

This would be a great time to check your spark plugs and spark plug wires, replace if necessary.

 

The "evaporated" gas, after 10 years, has likely left a crud film in tank, lines and carb. You would need to remove tank to clean properly and buy aerosol cans of fuel line cleaner. Carb would want to be removed and cleaned

If you are shy about pulling distributor you can remove spark plugs, squirt some oil into cylinder plug holes and also remove valve covers and liberally pour oil over entire valve train. You basically could do this with all 5 qts of oil you would be otherwise putting in after draining your old oil. Then crank over engine until you see oil pressure and oil coming from top of push rods. Engine will crank very fast without spark plugs

Your engine soft seals will not be happy and may develop leaks as a result once engine starts running. Car sitting for 10 years without proper prep can see more damage than hard driving for 10 years of use. Change trans fluid and filter f automatic

 

If you use a primer tool make sure to rotate the engine a few times while using to get oil to all of the rod bearings.

 

My 2¢; once the oil pressure gauge reads pressure while priming the oil pump, gallies, etc., rotate the crank/engine assembly a few times. I use a handheld starter switch to rotate the engine assembly but you could enlist a helper for that.

 

My biggest concern is the fuel system. If the tank is dry then you probably need to do as others have said and clean and flush everything. You can probably get away with taking the bowls off the Holly and cleaning them up and make sure the needle and seats are not stuck.

As far as pre-oiling goes if you don't feel comfortable pulling the distributor then don't. A lot of shops are using the pressure type oilers on engine swaps because most engines for the last 20 years do not have distributors. The parts stores might have them in the loaner tool deal. They hook up to the oil pressure sending port and pump oil right into the oil system.

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