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1968 Camaro rear end trouble

8.7K views 37 replies 9 participants last post by  TMessick  
#1 ·
I have a 1968 Camaro with a 383 stroker (crate from JEGS) 4 speed manual. My rear end is a 10 bolt (I believe it is an 8.2"). This is my daily driver so I need to get her back on the road as soon as possible. I was driving down the road and there was a very loud pop. Initially I thought my transmission blew since it wouldn't move after putting it into gear. When loading her onto the tow truck I noticed a few dents on my rear end cover. When I opened it up my spyder gears were laying on the bottom of my differential and my differential shaft was in several pieces. One of my spyder gears are destroyed and the other looks perfectly fine. The differential housing is damaged on one side so it will need to be replaced. It is not a high performance one and I am pretty sure it might be an original. I am trying to find a good replacement but do not need a high performance racing one. I attached a pic of when I opened the rear. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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#2 · (Edited)
If you had the money, Moser, Strange, Currie, or others could have a bolt-in 12 bolt to your door in under a week but it'll run $2200 or so. Other than that you're kinda stuck with pounding the pick-a-part or craigslist for another 8.2 or a stronger Nova 8.5. I gave a good 8.2 away a few years ago. If you just wanted something to get you going again I could check with the guy I gave it too but I think he might've already pulled the tubes and put them on an easy to find full size car 12 bolt housing. It would be a couple hundred miles away from you anyway.

There's a 12 bolt on craigslist in Statesboro (went to GSU there so I'm familiar with your area) but it's $900 and has a lot of stuff you'd want to change anyway....4.88 spool and C clip eliminators.
 
#3 ·
That is no good. Yeah like Steiner siad, you will just have to hit up ebay or craigs list... They are out there and cheap.. Shouldnt be hard to find one. Post in the wanted section on here... Should be able to find one close to you in GA...
 
#4 ·
So would I have to get a whole new rear end or just the differential housing with the gears already in it? I have never really done rear end work so I do not know what all is involved. I have taught myself engines and just recently changed the clutch out on my own but have never torn apart a rear end so I am kind of in the dark on what it will entail.
 
#5 ·
If you could find one someone pulled that is still good (like the one I pulled) it is very easy to swap a rear, and you can even move your brakes over without having to break open the lines so those will go back on with no trouble or rebleeding. There are plenty of detailed instructions for doing the following that you can find on the internet but the steps are pretty much:
-Support the rear of the car using stands on the frame just ahead of the leaf springs and remove the shocks.
-Disconnect the main ebrake cable from the two ebrake cables on your rear brakes.
-Remove the brake drums.
-Remove the differential cover, remove the keeper bolt that holds in the pin in the differential that slides in the middle and pull that pin back or remove (DO NOT ROTATE AXLES), push in the axles to gain access to the c-clips and remove them, put the center pin back in and pull out the axles.
-Remove the bolts holding your drum brake backing plates to the axle flanges, open up the clips holding your brake hard line to the rear end, and use coat hangers to hold everything up out of the way as an assembly being careful that your hardline doesn't kink.
-Remove the ubolts and/or tbolts holding the rear to the leafs.
-Wiggle the rear out OR remove the lower shackle bolts at the back of the leafs, drop the leafs, and slide the rear out.

Pretty much the same disassembly process if you find a used rear to put it back up in place.
 
#7 · (Edited)
I'd put an add in the classified on here and see if someone doesn't have one they'd sell close by to get you by.
I bought and sold one for $100 just a few months ago - I see then on Craigslist out here all the time ...

Then ... I'd consider at least upgrading it to at least an 8.5 that will live better with the torque you're putting through them.
A properly do 8.5 will live just fine behind most street performance engines and even survive the occasional drag-blast on weekends.
Hit you're local 'Pick-N-Pull' type wrecking yard and look for 70's Nova's and other GM vehicles that used them.
I've paid as little as $50 for them on 'Craigs' also :yes:

If you lived closer, I'd give you my "Loaner" until you could get things sorted - someone else on here closer to you may also have one ;)
 
#15 ·
8.2 Camaro rear ends are low performance, that's why yours failed. If you want to replace like for like, you can get one practically for free because so many Camaro guys upgrade and are willing to generously donate their old 8.2 rear end to a fellow Camaro enthusiast.

Replacing the entire unit is way easier for the unskilled mechanic compared to repairing the existing. A jack, stands, hammer, and a few wrenches is all it takes to remove and replace with a good used unit.

If you don't want it to break again, now is a good time to upgrade to an 8.5 unit.
 
#11 ·
Just stick with information from Freddie (big gear head) for someone local to help you through this.
He will only steer you straight and give you the best quality parts at the best $ ;)
 
#12 ·
Sorry, I can't supply parts anymore. I closed my business in June, so all I have now is used stuff, and a few left over parts.

The Eaton Posi really would be the best way to go with this as long as you are wanting to keep the same rear end and gears. I'm assuming that you have a gear somewhere around a 3.08, 3.36 or 3.55.
 
#13 ·
I found an Eaton Posi on Ebay under the listing "Eaton Posi Differential 19603 8.2 10 Bolt Camaro Nova Chevelle 66 67 68 69 70 " I think it might work but its $410. I just don't have that much money to spend at this time. There is a Car show near Ft. Benning this weekend that I am going to try to go to to see if anyone has parts for sale. I also need to be sure it will be an exact fit before I buy something too.
 
#14 ·
Did you read the installation instructions that I posted the link for in post number 8? You will have to go through that procedure no matter what differential you install, even if it's a stock OEM differential.
 
#18 ·
Yes I did. I just got a little confused. I was thinking that I could just take the differential housing out and put a new one back in. I did not think I needed to take out the shafts from the wheel base. I am still researching this and watching videos before I attempt to do it. Luckily here on Ft. Benning they have a do it yourself auto shop that has Mechanics that are able to help you out if you get stuck on something. What all do I need to know about my existing rear end before I purchase a new one? How do I find out the spline and what series differential I need? I just need to know exactly which one to do the research on so I can buy it and get her running again.
 
#16 ·
Yes I did. I just got a little confused. I was thinking that I could just take the differential housing out and put a new one back in. I did not think I needed to take out the shafts from the wheel base. I am still researching this and watching videos before I attempt to do it. Luckily here on Ft. Benning they have a do it yourself auto shop that has Mechanics that are able to help you out if you get stuck on something. What all do I need to know about my existing rear end before I purchase a new one? How do I find out the spline and what series differential I need? I just need to know exactly which one to do the research on so I can buy it and get her running again.
 
#17 ·
I mentioned the axle shafts because if you wind up finding a complete rear, you have to remove them if you want to reuse your existing brakes and mount them on your new rear. Doing the stuff I listed can be done with the rear on or off the car, I just mentioned doing it before you pulled it because then you don't have to break open your lines and then rebleed although it's not a big deal either way. If you're just going to try going with a new differential only and reuse your housing then you still need to pull the axles back to change the diff, or remove them completely if you want to go ahead and do a full rebuild of the rear you have (new seals etc.).

If you're going with just a replacement diff and your rear is original then you just need to get one for an 8.2 and your existing yoke should work with it. Axle splines should be 28. If you are going to reuse your ring and pinion you can check your ring gear for the ratio, anything from 2.73 and numerically higher should be a 3 series carrier.
 
#20 · (Edited)
Robert, in my opinion it's not worth messing with an 8.2 rearend. Try to find a complete 8.5 from a 70s Nova or a Pontiac Ventura. Then add a posi carrier since the one you find probably won't have one.

Between asking questions on this board and your access to the "do it yourself auto shop" you have access to, it probably won't be a big deal. I have two 8.5s that I would probably sell cheap but you are too far away for that to be cost effective.

Good luck.
 
#21 ·
If you have the 3.08 gear then you have a 3 series differential. Checking the gear ratio is easy with the cover off. Count the teeth on the ring gear and on the pinion gear. Divide the number on the ring gear by the number on the pinion gear. That is the ratio. If you have a 2.73 then you have a 2 series differential. 3.08 to 4.56 uses a 3 series differential. All 8.2 rear ends have 28 spline axles, so that isn't a problem. The '64 rear ends had slightly different splines, so avoid them.
 
#25 ·
Robert, you can check your local craigslist and should be able to find one. I checked but did not see anything really close to you.

Here is one but not sure exactly where, you might have to call. It has similar gears to what you have now. Could add a posi later.
http://charleston.craigslist.org/pts/3142687247.html

When you do a swap to an 8.5 you will have to check the driveshaft length and might have to have that changed.
 
#26 · (Edited)
I am trying to find a good replacement but do not need a high performance racing one. I attached a pic of when I opened the rear. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Come on folks, 3 different guys offering to sell parts in this thread! Take it to PM or list your stuff in the classifieds, the forums are for tech issues. Thanks for understanding.

Don't want to step on any toes, but to me it appeared Robert was basically soliciting an offer to get going as quickly and cheaply as possible. Any offer I saw to sell him one was made cheaply and also listed caveats that they were either too far away or that shipping it would make it too expensive for him. I realize the board rules but sometimes there are gray areas and everyone was just trying to help, although a "wanted" thread would be best.

But I do agree that an 8.2 isn't worth selling.:D
 
#28 ·
Don't want to step on any toes, but to me it appeared Robert was basically soliciting an offer to get going as quickly and cheaply as possible. Any offer I saw to sell him one was made cheaply and also listed caveats that they were either too far away or that shipping it would make it too expensive for him. I realize the board rules but sometimes there are gray areas and everyone was just trying to help, although a "wanted" thread would be best.

But I do agree that an 8.2 isn't worth selling.:D
Nobody is getting in trouble and no toes are being stepped on guys. Robert was looking for advice and ya maybe his wording could be read as "does anyone have" but he never came right out and asked. On the other hand 3 replied "I can sell you..."

I know the intent to help was first over the intent to unload but to our supporting vendors it can be viewed as members are allowed to sell in the forums and they are not. The goal is to keep the tech forums for tech Q&A and if we back off then when you ask "Whats the best _____ ?" or "What _____ should I install?" you will be met with advertising not testomony!

It's a small inconvience on everyones part, the vendors have their own forums and we have classified forums and a classified area and when a member asks "Where can I get ____? and you have what they are looking for send them a PM!

I hope that makes some sense...
 
#30 ·
If you change the differential case then you have to set the backlash and bearing preload, just like installing a posi. If you change the gears inside the differential case then you can do what you said, but you said in your original post that the differential case is damaged. You are going to have to change the differential and set the backlash and bearing preload or you are going to have to changethe whole rear end.