Get a solid 350 to start with then go to the machinist and tell him your plans. Im sure he can give you some great ideas to satisfy your needs.

 

The block I have is the same bore as a 350. Why couldn't this block be used rather than buying a new one then tearing it apart to make the 383 I want? From what I know, that seems redundant.....maybe I'm missing something.

 

Sounds to me you are on the right path for a good decent stroker package.
Suggest; Increase the carb to around 750CFM and use your large journal 327 block. Scat, Eagle, Strokerkits.com, DIY (Do it yourself) ext......
Don't loose too much sleep mulling it over. LOL!

 

I would use all those parts except upgrade to 1.6 rockers all the way around.

I say this because I just built the exact same motor using the exact same parts ...wierd..only using a 73 350 block and that thing is a powerhouse. I put 1.6 rockers all the way around. W/O cost of heads total build was $773.00 I didnt charge him labor cause he is a Navy friend thats an E-1(lowest paygrade) and needed some help building the motor. So I gave hime the engine I had planned for my 383 build for the Camaro. Ill find me a block somewhere else...I hope.

 

I did what you're planning, stroked my original 327 block. It's worked out just fine.

I used a scat 9000 cast internal balance crank, 6" stroker profiled rods, and srp d-dish pistions.
With the 16cc dish and 62 cc chambers, you'll end up at just over 10:1, which will be fine with the cam you picked.
Cylinder bottoms will need some clearancing, everything else fit, no clearancing needed at the pan rails, standard base circle cam fit no problem.

 

what rotating assembly did you use. Did you use forged for cast crank. 6" rods or 5.7" rods. Dish pistons? Is there a complete rotating assembly that you used or did you piece it together. If so, what did you use?

Thanks,

Tim

 

The above was for wiskeesour! Just trying to compare if rotating assembly similar to Jim M

JimM
I was leaning toward an assembly with 5.7" rods. Is a rotating assembly with 6" rods a better match for this build?

Thanks

 

JimM
I was leaning toward an assembly with 5.7" rods. Is a rotating assembly with 6" rods a better match for this build?

Thanks

I musta studied this for months, asked so many questions I think they may have all gotten sick of it.

The internal balance cranks are generally made for 6" rods. The counterwieghts hafta be bigger (and heavier) and the 6" rods keep the pistons clear.

The 6" rods with 7/16" capscrews are the good ones. The beams are clearanced by the manufacturer, they will clear most any cam.

When the rods get longer, the pistons get shorter. The oil rings on my forged SRP's run right thru the pinbore. Those lil jewels wiegh only 404 grams. For comparison, a set of standard deck ht TRW flatop forged 350 pistons wiegh 565 grams!

That's almost a 30% reduction in reciprocating wieght, with zero loss of strength. The rods are muc stronger than stock, but not much heavier. The 7/16" capscrews are what, twice as strong as the best stock 5/16" rodbolt money can buy?

The only thing I left out is a forged crank. I'm hoping I never regret that.

After seeking the advise of every pro builder here and on Team Chevelle, the logical choice became to locate a good engine builder locally to do the bottom end. His price for the parts was very competitive, and totalled around $1200.

There was another $1050 in machine shop charges, including cleaning, tightening the main caps, fitting studs, and align hone) boring and torque plate honing (on a good machine, that locates the block off the main bores) slight decking (also on a machine that locates the block off the mains),and completely blueprinting all these new parts (don't expect these things to be perfect, they are NOT. If I'd have taken this stuff out of a summit box and bolted it into my motor, the piston pins woulda siezed in the rods within 200 miles!) And of course he balanced it.

My goal was to put together (myself) a blueprinted engine that would take 550 HP and 6500 rpm forever. I got it.

While I did have to work within a budget, it was a pretty liberal budget.

 

Go with the package like Jim did, you will be glad you did. Purchase a forged kit with cap good cap screw rods. Stay away from Eagle. Your 195 heads will work fine. Run studs on main caps and a decent internal baffle oil pan.

 

Stay away from Eagle.

Here we go again!

FWIW, there are lots of us that run Eagle internal rotating assemblies and are very happy, as there are lots of folks that use Scat, Cola, Callies, ext.....
Even CAT products as well.

Check out http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/default.asp as another source.

My Eagle 4340 steel crank mains mic'ed out with no more than a 0.0004 tolerance difference between the saddles.
and the rods came in at 0.0001 tolerance difference. The light weight crank weighed in at 48.4lbs

My 4340 steel H beam rods as advertised, came in within 1 gram of each other weighed in and mic'ed out perfect.


I did have problems trying to use a 5" rod and piston combo. Even though my
crank was advertised as 35037505700LW.

I agree with Jim as to use a 6" rod and piston combo.

To me, what it boils down to is, what are your intension's.

In my case, I have had 3 engines built in the past by various shops with various comments like: she's cherry, good to go, you should get better than 100,000 miles out of it ext....... NOT!
So this time I did as you, Jim, and others have, lost sleep and asked many questions. I even bought specialties tools to double check our local machine shop. Block went back 3 times before I was satisfied.

Skip is correct and knows what he is talking about.
I am interested in knowing which cam he suggested to you?
My guess is the Voodoo 6104 with large tube headers and mufflers.

 

Why stay away from Eagle!! reason i ask is I'm about to buy a rotating assyembly from Summit???

 

china steel, china machined, Scat is china steel but machined in states, better quaility control. For a few dollars more you get a better product. You can still buy better Cola or Callies cranks but its not necessary. Go Scat.

 

Should I change from the flat tappet cam to a hydraulic roller cam. Is the horsepower gain really worth the difference in price?? If I were to stay with flat tappet cam what is cam specifically recommended or what is recommended for a hydraulic roller cam.

Will these heads work or should I change. Recommendations?

Thanks

Tim

Hi Tim from Oklahoma!
If you ever had a hyd roller cam you wouldn't even ask that question. It's a helluva pricey upgrade though. Rip a 1000 dollar bill up pretty good depending on how expensive your tastes are. You could probly dig around and do one for 6 or 7, but when you get that much into 1 area why buy junk. It's not just a power gain, it is quicker freer acceleration and less worries of barfing a lobe.

I truly like the little cheapo Summit cams. They crack me up. I bought 1 for fun and stuck it in my little 283. It sounds great. Mine is the 1105 if I remember right. 69 bucks for a cam and lifters, too cool. Hell evrybody ought to buy 1 to keep as a spare for when their BIG NAME FT's barf.
I call it my little junk summit cam. I don't mean it in a bad way either. Never heard of one barfing.

Hi Don, where you been hidin? Haven't seen you in awhile

 

Hey Tim, I have been out of the pocket, had to go south to control border fences,
Had to work holiday today , first thing this morning got word about the refinery in Big Spring. Bad deal, it was an old plant. Fina I understand. Hope 70K a day less fuel don't hurt anyone.

 

Thanks Jim for the info, but still a few questions,

With 62 cc heads, Wouldn't I have to go with a dish style piston to keep my compression ratio at or near 10:1? I really would like to stick with 91 (or 89 if possible) octane fuel to maintain some amount of economical driving.

Is there a better place to buy this stuff?

What about an externally balanced set up. I talked to Skip White at White Performance and he was very convincing that an internally balanced crank is not needed for a street/strip driver. He also stated I could get 490+ torque with 460+horsepower with his lower rotating assembly and using a voodoo flat tappet cam and 700 to 800 cfm carb (preferably Holley).

That's more than enough hp/torque for me but what do you think of this?

Thanks

 

Thanks Jim for the info, but still a few questions,

With 62 cc heads, Wouldn't I have to go with a dish style piston to keep my compression ratio at or near 10:1? Thanks

Yes, same pistons I used, SRP forged D-Dish, -16cc. I'll be at 10.6:1 with my new 60cc ARP heads.

I"ll also be pushing my previously imagined limits with the scat 9000 cast crank. I trust it tho, it'll hold.

The budget on this stuff is tough. Lostsa backyard shoestring builds hold together just fine, and the least expensive way to go is an external balance cast crank, the rods out of your 327, and appropriate pistons.

You do gotta hold sight of the big picture tho. Those rods will need to be resized, get new good arp bolts, and have the piston pins pressed in, and the whole assembly will need to be balanced anyway. How much do those new floating pin rods cost in comparison?

Do you remember reading here about some guys who have put a grand into ol iron double hump heads?
No idea why anyone would do that.

 

Keep the 327 block use your rods if its just a cruiser and not a track bruiser.Take your choice of 383 crank and have the journals turned for your rods.Bam 391 or whatever with your 40 over job.

 

If you are going to be under 6300 rpm as max your heads will work fine for a 383.
I would suggest a Victor Jr and a good 750 to 800 CFM carb
Hyd roller for most power under the curve and minmal maitenance
Solid roller for most power
A rotating kit with all things the same except crank (cast or steel) one may look at for an extra $300 you will have the piece of mine of steel. . .but budget plays a role for everyone.
Don't let anyone try an talk you out of neutral balance assemblies.. . .best way to go.

 

OK, color me stupid!........I've herd of externally and internally balanced assemblies but I have not herd of nerutral balanced assemblies.

 

Also what is the best holley carb to use for this setup?

 

Neutral balance = Internal balance. Harmonic dampers, flexplates, and flywheels that have no counterweights are referred to as neutral balance.

Something with the HP style center section will make the most power.

 

What carb would go best with the 383 set up using 6" rods keeping compression around 10:1? What about the Holley 770 street avenger (summit #HLY-0-80770) That carb seems to be correct without it being a budget buster. Any other suggestions?

 

Any Carb recommendations?

 

Holley 750 HP...Happy Motoring

 

Well I have a very similar situation in that I also have a 68 2 bolt main large journal 327 that I would like to make a 383 stoker. The block is standard bore from a 68 passenger car. I have a set of chevy 2.02 heads but I would "like to" go with aluminum heads but the budget may prevent that.

Are the following kits on e-bay good kits for the price? Is this a good starting point or average price for a forged kit? I don't think I need or want more than 400 horse power and 400 torque but i have always heard forged is the way to go for strength.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/SB-C...tem2ea54ee096QQitemZ200341905558QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Scat...tem3a4ee74285QQitemZ250431881861QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Cast Kit:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Eagl...tem335193c272QQitemZ220411970162QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

Since I already own the block and want to build this motor over time as funding permits can I take the block to the machine shop without the stroker kit? I am thinking about getting it ready and on a stand, then buy the stroker kit, then pan, heads, intake, carb etc. as I go.

 

Offset grind the rod journals on the crank, run whatever rod size you want just keep them the 327 journal size. I beleive speed pro has pistons readily available for this particular type of build. The trick flow heads, with a rather tame cam that im sure these guys could spec for you would make for an insanely torque 391 or so stroker.