1/4 to 1/2 turn past zero lash is correct.

 

Thats with a dry lifter not a wet one you set your lash on empty lifters and a half turn is best usually a quarte turn is for the anti pump up lifters like the old TRW VL-66RH. Once you fill them up they are gonna be tough to set they are ALWAYS SET dry on a fresh engine. Alex

 

Thanks, I don't know the state of oil fill inside the lifters since the engine was rebuilt/assembled way back in 1995 (never been run and been in storage). My plan was to pressurize them with the tool to get them all filled, flush any old oil out, fill with new break in oil, and then adjust without the tool pressurizing them. Right now some of them appear to have oil in them and others do not.

 

Well if it was rebuilt and assembled and not touched as you say prime it leave it bestart and run it . This flush and fill idea of yours is a very bad one because it does not work the way that you think it does . you will do more HARM than good . . Alex

 

Make sure to turn engine by hand while spinning up the oil pump to make sure oil gets to everything.

 

Problem is that the lifters "pump up" with oil and the pressure of the valvetrain while running, which "can bleed down" while not running.

I've always tried to soak my lifters for a few hours to over night (no more air bubbles), add assembly lube (sides, top and bottom as well as the pushrod tips) and do as said above lashing...zero lash and 1/4-1/2 turn.(unless solids, then just soak and set lash with feeler gauge)

 

Just use the intake when exhaust starts to open and exhaust when intake is almost closed method. Spin pushrod till it stops turning (zero lash) then go 1/4 to 1/2 turn more. All done.

 

The push rods had been removed. I pulled all the lifters (one at a time) and put assembly lube on them. I also replaced the pivot balls and lock nuts on the rockers. Not sure why it would cause damage to prime the lifters.

 

I used to pump lifters full of oil useing a squirt can before assembly.

 

As suggested, soak them overnight in oil. Then swapout/install complete with heads and pushrods.
Follow firing order. spin each pushrod by hand and tighten adjustment. When spinning stops, add an additional 1/4-1/2 turn. Done
The proper way is to have engine running at operating temperature, adjust each push rod for silence, then additional one turn. But this proper method requires rags and oil deflectors on rocker arms because of the oil being pumped out from running.

 

IMHO, finding zero lash while spinning PR with fingers...do so until you start to feel drag or resistance...NOT until the PR stops turning.

Personally, I prefer the no more up/down movement vs spin. YMMV

 

So I am getting close to this step in my 327 flat tappet engine build. A couple things that are unclear to me: one side says adjust dry, other say to soak. Personally I like the soak and make sure lifter can spin in bore (horror story with buddy's 302!). But I also like using some assembly lube on the cam face. So I think the assembly process is: soak lifters, then turn over so they can drain a bit, wipe off face, put assembly lube on face, fit in bore, make sure it spins, assembly lube on ends of pushrods and rocker pivots & assemble. When all rockers are assembled, turn cam to proper off-lobe position, find zero lash (spin pushrod & feeler gauge), then 1/2 turn. Next start in oil primer running, turn engine over slowly and make sure oil is coming out of all rocker arms. Then on to test fire! Have I got all that? Its been a while since I rebuilt a small block, so I have to relearn the steps.

 

I verify each lifter I will be installing in its specific bore will spin because they’re easier to deal with when dry
Then I soak the lifters-but in its specific order
I put assembly lube liberally on the cam journals
Put in the lifters, push rods, rockers and snug enough so I can see the rocker arms move
Rotate the engine to TDC for #1
Adjust valves
Repeat for #6 TDC

For pushrod/valve adjustment, I use the no movement up and down because spinning the rod is a feel. The process off up and and down (lash) is completed by tightening the rocker arm nut—which eliminates up and down movement.
Then prime the engine/rotate/prime

No pictures of the build? Cmon man!

 

KevinW, that is the way that I remember it from back in the 60's. I have also seen where some people recommend pumping the lifter plunger while in an oil bath to fill it with oil instead of just static soaking. I want to get the rockers set before I start the engine and then will adjust them again after running the engine through break in (on an engine stand).

BTW, on my roller lifters for my boat engine, Comp Cams said specifically not to prime them since they came pre-filled with oil.

 

Kevin. your method is fine but I have always just submerged lifters in oil overnight then just assemble and lube each end of PR but just with oil. Assembly lube is fine but too much can block small hole in PR until enough heat and oil pressure builds up to clear it so use sparingly on PR ends if using assembly grease.

Also always good to do the see daylight test through PR (read use compressed air to blow through and then look) and roll on a flat piece of glass to confirm it's true then oil and install.

I always pull coil wire and crank motor until I see oil pressure, then attach coil wire and fire up motor keeping rpm's at 2k rpm for 20 min to bed new flat tappet cam & lifters.

I am pretty anal about the oil change. I do it right after break in then again at 500mi. Cutting open filters each time.

On ring set I initially drive car in low gear to about 35mph and decelerate without brakes about 10 times. Then at 45 mph using 2nd gear about 6 times. This loads the rings well against cyl walls on accel and decel. After that drive it, don't baby it.

 

Thx for all the tips! It's just a stock 327, not much excitement here But it is my Camaro's original engine, so I will be glad when that is back in it's home.

 

Not much excitement? 🤔😆. Perhaps a 283 crankshaft is what it needs, paired with some solid lifters! Now that’s exciting.

 

So, I started adjusting my valves on my 350 and ran into one lifter that the plunger was somewhat compressed and wouldn't return to the up position. Stuck lifter so since the engine has sat so long without being run, I went ahead and replaced all of them just to be sure they are all good. Anyway, I found the adjustment procedure in the Chev Service Manual and, although we talked about 1/4 to 1/2 here, it calls for one full turn past zero lash to set the lifter to center of travel. The lifters I got are hydraulic flat tappet anti-pump up lifters. Right now I have them set at 1/2 turn. Any thoughts on the full turn setting?

Thanks...

 

I always use 1/4 or 1/2 turn max. 1/2 turn should be good to center the lift. Unless you are planning on running a hot cam anti pump up lifters are not needed and just make unnecessary noise.

 

Are "anti-pump-up lifters" a short travel lifter?

 

I had never heard of them before getting these. From what I read, they just bleed down faster at high RPM to avoid "floating a valve". I hope they are normal travel.

 

"Soaking" a lifter DOES NOT FILL IT WITH OIL. Pumping it up...DOES.

Learn the "E-O, I-C" setting method, only totally accurate way to do it, on every cam ever ground.